Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psychosis (5.10d PG13)
By: Danny Inman When: Aug 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The direct third pitch roof is better than the roof on Vertigo, IMHO.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Chicken Eruptus (5.10 R)
By: Danny Inman When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has thoughtful moves that require good foot work, the gear placements, while adequate, do require some creativeness. A classic single pitch route.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: Danny Inman When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Compared to other routes of similar grade on BV, the Fiddler is more solid, more sustained, and more exposed. I thought this climb was outstanding for many reasons. After the first two pitches of the Gobbler, the climbing feels pretty bold, partly due to the position and partey due to the spacing of gear. I gave the route an R for the traverse pitch, the other pitches are PG-pretty safe with some big air potential. There may be some confusion from the guidebooks on the number of bolts on the tra... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Green Slab Direct (5.9)
By: Danny Inman When: Apr 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route was well worth doing. The first pitch is quite good and the finger-crack pitch is superb. FWIW, I found it most natural to follow the crack to its terminus (small brass) and traverse slightly left using a series of small underclings and small but positive sidepulls, this deposits you on the face via some balancy and tangy climbing - at this point the "fixed Metolius" was well below my feet and left; the climbing holds your attention until you are in the R-facing co... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: Danny Inman When: Nov 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route that combines very well with The Metamorphosis. I felt the pro to be good the whole way. In fact, a very good stopper can be placed immediately above the first fixed piece (I think it was a bashie) at the upper crux, from there one has over-head pro for the next couple of moves. The upper crux is memorable and required some very interesting movement. As for rope drag, there is a cam placement to the right a little ways after the apex, placing a cam and clipping short will k... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Diving Board (5.11a)
By: Danny Inman When: Oct 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic and committing route. The exposure on the last two pitches is unbelievable. As of Oct 23 2007-the route is clean of dead birds and was surprisingly poop-free, except for the "cave belay" which was filled with a mixture of bones and some mysterious matrix; this is not a real problem b/c one can build the belay far enough out that the stench is barely noticeable.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Diffraction (5.10a/b)
By: Danny Inman When: Oct 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty cool route and a good approach to Metamorphosis. Clipping the antique gear (RURP, pin, copper-head) adds a little spice to the moves.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: Danny Inman When: Oct 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolutely classic Eldo....
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Big Guy (5.11-)
By: Danny Inman When: Oct 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wonderful route, so much easier on top rope. While leading this, placing gear and keeping the rope out of my way became a fiasco of epic proportions.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9)
By: Danny Inman When: Aug 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: BIOHAZARD!!!
As of August 12 2007, there is a massive pile of human feces on the P1 belay. I climbed this on Sunday (8/12/07) and came upon the unspeakably nasty 8-pounder right in the middle of the small belay ledge. It is strongly advised to run P1 and P2 together and possibly bring some bleach and Hazmat coveralls.
|
Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Sperm (5.9+)
By: Danny Inman When: Apr 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 and P2 are straight forward. I ended up doing P3 and P4 as one long pitch which worked out well. Judging from the lichen on P3 and P4 these pitched are seldom done, but are worth while.
|
Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Second Coming (5.7)
By: Danny Inman When: Apr 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice.
|
Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Rat's Ass (5.8+)
By: Danny Inman When: Apr 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a classic, tips and stemming with rests when you need em.
|
Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Zodiac (5.8+ R)
By: Danny Inman When: Apr 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb that has a bit of everything. I agree the first 40 feet or so are spicey 5.8. There is solid gear right after the crux.
|
Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Will the Wolf Survive? (5.10a)
By: Danny Inman When: Mar 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first couple moves of the last pitch are stellar. The rest of the route is also very good.
|
Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Day's Work (5.10a/b)
By: Danny Inman When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Achor is gone (3/24/07) as a result of the recent fire. We had to traverse over to the anchors on sanscrit, which is not ideal.
|
Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Finger Lockin' Good (5.10b/c)
By: Danny Inman When: Dec 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: If it were longer this route would be four stars. Perfect finger locks and great gear. I thought that there were good rests (for a 10b finger crack) for placing pro. I would suggest bringing some very small wires for the top section, the climbing eases but the pro gets thin.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Bushwack Crack (5.8 PG13)
By: Danny Inman When: Dec 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left hand-crack variation is definitely the most direct and obvious way to do this route. Doing this sets you up perfectly for Laughing at the Moon.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Fading Light (5.9)
By: Danny Inman When: Dec 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The dihedral, by itself, would be 3 stars. I also thought the crux was stiffer than Xanadu. There are a couple of options up top- 1) do the layback move up and left into the roof, this seems like the logical line and is a nice 10a sequence with good exposure-however the belay is to the right (according to the guidebook plus there is some webbing), at the top of Blackout, which requires a poorly protected and thought provoking traverse right on very dubious rock. 2) one can traverse into the top ... more >>
|
Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Razor Worm (5.8+)
By: Danny Inman When: Dec 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. I remember the anchor being a tree with webbing (as of 12/05). Protects nicely with medium nuts.
|
Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Golden Locks (5.8+)
By: Danny Inman When: Dec 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. The crux is definitely getting to the crack via the pumpy start with a less than appetizing landing on a pointed rock. Spotter here = good.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Big Baby (5.11)
By: Danny Inman When: Dec 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Getting established above the roof was burley, for me it was very rattly fists. Sure one can lay it back, but why deprive yourself? As my first "real" desert offwidth, I learned a lot on this thing. Very different technique required than other offwidths that I have done. Suffice to say, my hip flexors and abs got a full workout. I will return after my technique improves. Also, as stated in the description, the new BD #6 definitely does not fit here.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Spaghetti Western (5.11+)
By: Danny Inman When: Dec 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the most "Incredible Hand Crack" that I have done, to date, at the creek.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Jolly Rancher (5.10)
By: Danny Inman When: Dec 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice route, if #3 BDs are your size, get on this thing. As for the "R", no way this is an R. As Jason Haas said, bomber gear below and immediately after the blocky section.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7)
By: Danny Inman When: Nov 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: P2 and P4 are what make this route great. the P2 crack is nice with great exposure, while the P4 dihedral is immense and super exposed.
|
RSS Feed
