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Member Since: Jul 17, 2012
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Dankasaurus
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Point Rank: # 5,680
Total Points: 92
Last Year: 25
Last 30 Days: 8
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 225 | Routes | Areas 1 | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 42 | Posts 126 | Stars 40 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Green Dihedral (5.7+) : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: 16 hours ago

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Comments: There are fatty bolts and rap rings nearby, now. No need for the triangle tat anymores last time I looked


Location: NH : WM: Pinkham / Presidentials : Huntington Ravine
By: Dankasaurus When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: From my understanding of this area's orogeny, most of the rock on Washington is quartzite or schist, not granite. Anyways, it's frictiony and has that nice alpine feel. The descent of the Huntington Ravine trail can be accomplished onsight with some seriously exposed 3rd classing and would be a terrible option if moist. But, it was dry the day that we did it, and is doable if you have energy left from the climb. Again: The Huntington Ravine trail is a... more >>


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Double Vee (5.9+)
By: Dankasaurus When: Aug 16, 2016

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Comments: This is a difficult and slippery climb. Make sure you get warmed up and have a good belay. The second Vee has a nasty surprise. Surely a deserving of the "Cathedral +" rating along with all the others at this old-school cliff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over and Out (5.8)
By: Dankasaurus When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: The downclimb: if you end up belaying while standing on choss, you don't do the 2nd pitch for whatever reason, and perhaps the wall is festooned with many parties including a party on the OTH bolts, then there is a terrible choss traverse and downclimb waiting for you.

The terrible part is more about knocking rocks off than it is technical difficulty, but the technical downclimb moves are very exposed, and the poor trees are all dead. Please be careful of others down below, ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : ... : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: I went this way, left of the easier and standard path, first and got decent gear (above the climber, at the same level as the upper shadow corner) but then was looking at an insecure 10-ish face-mantel move with gear below my toes and death if that gear blew...so I downclimbed and went the standard way.

Don't go right of the upper corner unless you climb 11, like gear puzzles, and have a good partner.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Zig Zag Boulder : Zig Zag Crack (V1)
By: Dankasaurus When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Haha, truly the Reppy's of Boulder problems, this one really does make you feel good inside. Fun, sustained, tricky top out, bullet stone.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Raven Crack (5.9+)
By: Dankasaurus When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: The money pitch is 4 stars for sure....just make sure the lower crack is dry before you decide it'll be a nice 5.9 lead. More like solid 10 when the lower of the two right angling cracks is wet through the crux after the (awesome) chimney moves. Great gear in the dry upper crack means it stays safe in this condition, just bloody hard at 9


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Raven Crack (5.9+) : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: The problem with Raven Crack I found was that even in mid august, after a dry spell, the critical lower crack near the climber's foot was wet and slimy. This makes the climb way harder than 5.9, IMO. But it's a super awesome line.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Raven Crack (5.9+)
By: Dankasaurus When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Replaced the super old micro nuts (with rusted and frayed cables) at the terrible tat anchor at the top of the corner. If you rapped this in the past 2-3 years you dodged a bullet, I would have to say.

Added a fresh BD small black nut to the cleaned up nut placement, and fresh 7mm webbing to link the new #10 BD nut under the roof, the micro nut, and the super old rusty Chouinard pin into one super stupid, but redundant and kind of safe, rap anchor for this perfect awesome pitch.


Concu... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : ... : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: Looks stellar...and maybe he never actually even climbed Alexander's, because as a rock climb...it's wetter than a 28 year old, Connecticut, outdoorsy chick at a Neptune Slide show.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Desdemona : Northwest Arete (5.9+)
By: Dankasaurus When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: Small hands make this harder.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Rapids Rock : Guided [Missile] (5.9-)
By: Dankasaurus When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: Missile is the correct spelling for a self powered projectile of the sort I believe the route is sposed to represent.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Kraft Boulders : Warm-up Boulders West (aka ... : Black Warm-up (V-easy) : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: And look, no wedding band! Does she take it off even for V-Easy routes?

Will SpencerParkin rate this only 1 star?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Red Wall (5.10)
By: Dankasaurus When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: This climb is old school alpine 5.10. A classic Kor route, with decrepit old bolts and pins here and there.

Missing the 5.7 starting dihedral pitch made this climb a bit more interesting. We ended up left of the normal route all the way up to the base of the "death flake" pitch. The climbing mostly 5.8/5.9 or a bit harder. A fun chimney, some mild offwidthing, clean rock...so, no big deal if you miss the obvious corner start like the morons we are.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: Where is "In search of Unicorns", the famous 11 on the Tail?

Ratings (difficulty and star) appear to be wrong for that one, if it's in the correct position.


Location: Nick's Album : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: for sure...love that climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Hypotenuse (5.9)
By: Dankasaurus When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Climbed both the corner (lead) and the thin crack on the face (TR). Both could be considered dicey for gear by modern standards. Both lines are super fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Malign (5.7)
By: Dankasaurus When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: Good route for new trad leaders. Plentiful gear, and if you bring large passive stuff, you can sink it everywhere. Fun!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : Upside The Cranium (5.10b/c)
By: Dankasaurus When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: Recently climbed here, and I'll say this route is a candidate for rebolting. The AMC hangers look mostly OK, but some of the bolts have significant rust.

Since I am ignorant and would hate to damage this perfect route, I'll just post here that it's a candidate for rebolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments: What would happen here should the leader fall? I love Lefthand and all, but it seems a better belay position could be obtained. What a pill, I know.


Location: CO : Eldorado Canyon SP - FHRC n...
By: Dankasaurus When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: However it started, it should be resisted vigorously.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : ... : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: "Rambo Redpoint" Robinson.


Location: CO : Call for Donations to help ...
By: Dankasaurus When: Dec 30, 2012

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Comments: So nice to hear that despite the accident, JL is cracking jokes and healing up. Part of the reason, I'm quite sure, that he is healing and in good spirits is because of the physical presence of his daughter, other friends, and family.

All best to John Long, and his family and friends, and all the climbing community in 2013! Be safe, be considerate, and have fun!

P.S. Another thought that could perhaps use its own thread...is there a systematic way to protect the legends of climbing who have g... more >>


Location: AL : Horse Pens 40 : Photo
By: Dankasaurus When: Dec 5, 2012

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Comments: He's trying to get the camera out of the bag before she falls on it. Priorities....


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Fractured Fairytales (5.7)
By: Dankasaurus When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: Done in 3 pitches. A useful approach to the Acid Rock classics....


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