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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Pinnacles National Monument : Discovery Wall : Jorgie's Crack (5.10a)
By: daniel c When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Goes 5.9 in the book, a rating that I agree with. Bring nuts and small cams. Piton about two thirds of the way-up helps. Sustained. A great climb but can be greasy from traffic
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Dome : West Crack (5.9)
By: daniel c When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with others - std rack to #3. If you're in a hurry, stretch P2 into the finger crack section (go ~30 feet above two bolt anchor to left and set hanging belay) and finish in two more pitches (four total, 60m rope). While waiting, have fun watching climbers take on the roof at the start of P2. The desperate worm/squeeze chimney maneuver through the slot of the roof is precious
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: daniel c When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: With the sun setting, my partner and I decided to bail at what I think was the anchor for Mind Blow. If this is the case, I wonder about the finger crack of P3... ie, is it really a beautiful 5.6 finger crack or a 5.8+ R finger flare? Perhaps erosion has finally taken its toll on this route? Yes, this is my first time climbing in Utah so not sure if its just me and my crap route finding skills but I was hard pressed to find a 5.6 finger crack. I felt comfortable with the general grading sche... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Satan's Corner (5.8)
By: daniel c When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 - Straightforward if you are comfortable jamming. I saw a strong sport climber take a fall on this section due to lack of jamming skills
P2 - Easy low angle crack to a steeper, left pushing hand crack, flaring in sections making jamming impossible. Agree with Taylor - key for me was to smear left foot (yikes! exposure!), jam right foot, walk up hands, repeat. Don't clip that manky old fixed cam!
Great route. Have fun with it!
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Bear, The : Mark's Moderate (5.10a R)
By: daniel c When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: With a .75 - 1 cam to protect between third and fourth bolt, I would take away the R but its still a little spicy. Be careful with the lichen on this route - chossiness goes down in the late summer / fall. Sustained 5.9 with 10a move over the bulge. Have fun! Enjoy the view and quiet from top.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Bear, The : Black Hole Sun (5.10d)
By: daniel c When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bee hive appears to be gone.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Bear, The : The Bear Crack (5.9+)
By: daniel c When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crack often opens up in the back, making for great jams but tricky gear placements. 1-3 inch hexes would be perfect. Otherwise, load-up on larger cams but bring at least one .5 for near the top. Pass two bolt anchor on neighboring route to left, climbing up class 5 section to ledge with two bolts separated by ~2 feet. Two raps - first to the ledge, then to ground (be careful not to rain rocks on climbers below). Route gets very little traffic which adds to the chossiness but also the advent... more >>
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Beaver Street Wall : The Crack (5.10b R)
By: daniel c When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think there might be some confusion between this route and Crack Direct. In the Bay Area climbing book, Crack Direct is rated at 5.9, while this route, The Crack, is listed at 5.10a. Both of these difficulty ratings seem reasonable to me.
Loose at the top. Have your belay partner stand back a few feet.
Lead is possible (bring the small stuff) but I wouldn't recommended it.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : East Face : Morticia (5.9)
By: daniel c When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing goes 5.6 until the roof. Roof move seemed easier than 5.9 to me, perhaps 5.8. Protect roof move with micro cam.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : The Groove (5.8 PG13)
By: daniel c When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Single 60 m rope just long enough to bail from the P1 bolts. Supertopo says the bolts are 120' off the deck which is probably not correct. I'd say closer to 98' as both ends of the rope barely make it to the ground.
Agree with other posts on the importance of placing a piece from the ground to protect the first two moves and that I often found myself lying back off the left side of the crack.
Bring a bunch of small pro. You'll need it.
BTW - I'm tired of all the short guy whining! Y'all w... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Farce (5.5)
By: daniel c When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: great to see that other climbers found the direct start harder than 5.6. i thought i was going crazy. agreed on 5.8+ for the direct start. the rest of the climb is a really fun 5.5.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : California Ridge : Mullah (5.10a)
By: daniel c When: Jul 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some overhang to start and immediate exposure to the left make this an interesting psychological exercise but the assortment of jugs and features calm the nerves. Some of the features feel especially thin on this route so take care. A few reachy moves make this a 10a. Taller climbers should find this climb a grade easier. Well protected.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Tollhouse Rock : Sunday Slabs : Directissima (5.7)
By: daniel c When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Run out to first bolt. Slab-tastic for sure. I felt like my feet were going to pop the entire way. But not that steep so 5.7 rating is fair.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Tamalpais : Leaning Tower, The : Eastern Face (5.10b)
By: daniel c When: Sep 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux move lies about half way up the rock and involves a series of two finger pockets.
Watch out for poison oak!
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