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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Unknown (begins 50' left of... (5.10+)
By: Dana Ernst When: Dec 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a fun route up the Sheepshead. The hardest part for me was the traverse left on pitch 5. This part seemed dangerous for the follower. The roof move at the top of pitch 5 is easy if you are tall (like I am). We finished on the last pitch of The Climb Too Tough to Die.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : unknown (se arete) (5.10+ A0)
By: Dana Ernst When: Dec 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does this route start at the lower toe of Muttonhead in the descent gully between Muttonhead and Sheepshead?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Autumn (5.11a)
By: Dana Ernst When: Nov 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eric, it has been a while since I've been there, but I think that you are referring to a new route that was put up around spring 2007 (by who I'm not sure). The route starts about a third of the way up the FIRST pitch of Autumn. It is between Autumn and Hunky Monkey. It's most striking pitch goes up an arete that is just left of the top of the second pitch of Hunky Monkey (this pitch has a few too many closely spaced bolts, IMHO). When I climbed this route, it was still a bit dirty and may ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : Photo
By: Dana Ernst When: May 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're still my hero!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Pornographic Motions (5.10- PG13)
By: Dana Ernst When: Dec 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now we have to change Brent's nickname from Mad Dog to Mad Sandbagger! I knew it was always him that was the sandbagger and not me...
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Location: CO : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Dana Ernst When: Mar 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The approach instructions for Isolation Canyon in AZ say: Show and tell only. I think that it would be appropriate to delete the current "Getting There" under Wonderland and replace it with something similar until a nontrespassing approach is found.
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Location: AZ : Photo
By: Dana Ernst When: Feb 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks! I should have looked in my Kerry guide to see if it was in there, but it didn't sound familiar; so, I didn't look. Looks fantastic!!!
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Location: AZ : Photo
By: Dana Ernst When: Jan 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where is this? Any route info?
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Location: CO : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Dana Ernst When: Jan 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's great! Richard, did you do this recently in the snow? If so, how much snow is there right now? Also, where are you parking to pick up the trail by the bridge? I've been parking at the top of the hill before the town of Pinecliffe.
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Location: CO : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Dana Ernst When: Dec 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave, does the approach that you suggest cross private property? If I understand you correctly, there are a couple of "No Trespassing" signs down by the river just past the first small tunnel.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : The Titleist (aka The Alici... (5.11 PG13)
By: Dana Ernst When: Nov 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: We've bumped the rating up to 5.11 from 5.11-. Also, we've bumped the rating of the 2nd pitch up to 5.10- from 5.9. Everyone I know that has climbed the route, thought that it was harder than its original rating. The original rating was an attempt to be more consistent with the ratings on the rest of the wall and to battle grade inflation. There are routes up canyon rated 5.11d that are probably easier than this route. In addition, we've decided to give the route a PG13 rating. There are a... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : A Hike for Y2K (5.11d)
By: Dana Ernst When: Nov 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: No one seems to like this climb, but I love it. I think that this climb is closer to 11b than 11d, even if you go straight up (which is the only way I've ever done it). This climb is much easier than some of the 11c's and d's nearby: Orange Crush, Respite, Jolt Cola. Either way, this climb is great.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Dana Ernst When: Oct 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't find Vaino's initials on this one. Can anyone else? I've found them on most of his other photos.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Naked Lunch (5.11d)
By: Dana Ernst When: Jul 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a 5th pitch to this route. From the anchors atop pitch 4, climb up the slab (no harder than 5.8 if I remember correctly) to the top of the wall, passing a couple of diagonal cracks along the way. The pitch has far fewer bolts than the previous pitches, but there are gear options in the diagonal cracks. There is not a bolt anchor on top of the wall, however, there is a giant tree near where the route tops out. Great route!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Road Rock : Road Trip (5.10)
By: Dana Ernst When: Jun 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was a really fun route. The moss didn't really detract from the quality of the route. However, the climbing will improve as this thing cleans up. I had been looking at this line for over 2 years and I never got around to climbing it. Bob beat me to it. Good job cleaning the route. My only complaint is that the intended line leaves the crack before it ends. It seems that the route could have followed the crack for another 10 feet or so and then pulled onto the slab. Nonethe... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : The Art Of War (5.10b)
By: Dana Ernst When: Jun 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner and I climbed 8 pitches (including the Art of War) on the 3rd Tier of Avalon on Saturday, June 10th. This climb and Ancient Fright were probably the best of the ones that we did. When you stand at the base of this climb, you get a sense of how much work went into cleaning the route. It is hard to believe that someone was that motivated to put this route up, but I'm glad that Richard and Pebby did. While the route is long and enjoyable, I don't think that it is as good as some of t... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty
By: Dana Ernst When: Jun 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: What Rossiter calls the "West Approach" on his website is a much easier/safer way to get to Sleeping Beauty when the water is high. Park at Easter Rock, walk downstream a bit (100 feet or so), and skate down the steep bank to the creek. My partner and I easily crossed the river at the eastern most tip of the small island in the creek. Once across the river, walk up hill until you see some cairns and then do your best to follow this to the top of the wall. The cairns are easy to follow on the... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Muad'Dib (5.10-)
By: Dana Ernst When: Apr 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...the one who can be many places at once...
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : East Crack (5.10b)
By: Dana Ernst When: Apr 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt that you saw is probably one of the bolts that got replaced on the second pitch of Night Vision (see comments there for details).
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : Photo
By: Dana Ernst When: Mar 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scott Baxter wears "hand jammies?"
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Miss Manners (5.11a)
By: Dana Ernst When: Mar 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is excellent! It is every bit as good as Two Jews Blues with half the bolts. The first pitch is the crux and has a relatively high pucker factor. The second pitch (5.11-) was the best of the three pitches in my opinion. On the third pitch (5.9), you'll probably want to place a piece of gear between the first and second bolt. You can rap from the top of the second pitch to the top of the 1st pitch with a single 60M rope. Similarly, you can rap from the top of the first pitch to t... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Charisma (5.11a)
By: Dana Ernst When: Nov 26, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the worst climbs I've done in a while. If you do decide to do it, bring safety glasses to protect the eyes from lichen flakes. Also, brushing it on the way down might improve the climb for future ascents.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: Dana Ernst When: Mar 25, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure what it means. I guess that's why I made the post. I was wondering if he (Vaino) removed the route from his website because he removed the bolts. Just curious what happened....
Regardless of who did the FA of this route, I rather enjoyed it. You recommended the route to me several months ago (maybe a year?) when we met at the Eldo Market while drinking coffee.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: Dana Ernst When: Mar 25, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmmm, this route no longer appears on Vaino's website...
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Rock Odyssey (5.12b)
By: Dana Ernst When: Nov 10, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! This route is wild. I would agree that the 2nd (traverse) and 3rd (pulling out of dihedral) pitches are significantly harder than the first pitch even though all three get the same grade. On the 3rd pitch we climbed down to anchor that marks the beginning of Tripendicular Wildman (I think?). This shortens the rope drag experience. We then finished with 3 pitches on Tripendicular Wildman. The 12b crux on that route is wicked hard. i couldn't figure it out. I ended pulling on a draw t... more >>
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