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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Casual Route (5.10a)
By: Dan St. John When: Aug 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The casual rout in prime condition as of August. Due to the moisture this year and low temps the wall was what I considered to wet during July. D1 had a lot of moisture still. I found the casual route harder then 10a, but not much harder. Altitude may have been a factor.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Generic Crack (5.9+)
By: Dan St. John When: Sep 24, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would say the route is 5.10- based on my relative experience. I am not ashamed to inflate, I mearly wish to communicate to other climbers what I feel the route should be rated. Good foot work and you will not have toe jam completly. I used 7x2, 3, 4 Camalot on the route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Chocolate Corner (5.9+)
By: Dan St. John When: Sep 24, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this rout was harder than 5.9. As always the grade depends on hand size. I find a #3 camolt a good jam so #1 is quite insecure. 5.10-
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : The Naked and Dead (5.10 R)
By: Dan St. John When: Sep 24, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I enjojed it ver much, you can run the pitches together.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Think Pink (5.11a)
By: Dan St. John When: Sep 24, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have big hands and the climb felt more like solid 5.10. The size is to small for a #3 Camalot but just at the end of the #2 Camalot range. The tarango hand size worked well which is like #2.5 Camalot(if one existed ). I recomend this climb for the leader on the verge of breaking into the 11 range, those with big hands.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Our Piece of Real Estate (5.11a)
By: Dan St. John When: Sep 24, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I give it 11a. The length of the route ups the grade. This is one of my favorit routes and is varied to boot.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Drumstick Direct (5.10+)
By: Dan St. John When: Sep 23, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux is firt roof, the second roof has a easy trick, HINT: look for the nubit and use you knees to keep you on. QED
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11)
By: Dan St. John When: Sep 23, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super Climb: Here is the easy variation 5.11b
P1: 5.8 climb up to the base on the stunning hand crack in the corner with the deluxe ledge with fixed anchor (one bolt, fixed nut and slings). Pro to # 4 Camalot 100ft
P2: 5.11a climb the stunning hand/fist/finger crack to a small belay one two fixed pins with slings. Back up the anchor with .75 Camalot. 70ft.
P3: 5.9+ climb up an awkward flaring chimney with a finger crack in the back. The pitch climbs like a back and foot chimney to fixed... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Crack of Delight (5.7)
By: Dan St. John When: Sep 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, Went to climb the D7-FF and found 4 parties in the chimney before us, and some on the wall. We got a 2:30 start, passed 5 parties on the way up, at the lake by 4:30, and were feeling like we would be first on Broadway, haa, naive. Basically you have to bivy to get first choice. The chimney is not bad but it is a gamble, hence we opted to climb the crack of delight to get to Broadway, avoiding possible head injury from rock fall. The climbing was full value for 5.7. I am glad I put my rock ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: Dan St. John When: Aug 26, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice climb with short crux. Thier is a faring hand jam at the very top which will get you over the top with ease, not obvious.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Darkness 'til Dawn (5.10-)
By: Dan St. John When: Aug 26, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excelet Climb!!! Many short cruxes with rest in between them all. If it feel hard you are not milking all the rests. Take 2x2, 2 x 3 , 3.5, 4. It looks small from the ground but if get quite wide in places.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: Dan St. John When: Aug 26, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is outstanding and perhaps soft for the grade. Every one has different strengthens hence I do not suggest down rating the climb robbing due credit from anyone. I recommend this climb to 5.10a/b leader looking to move into the harder 5.10c/d ranges. The gear is outstanding hence very safe climb. The crux is short and intense. The climb was not a health hazard due to bird excrement either. As of 8/26/02 disregard and excrement warnings. There was only one position with a mildly grungy s... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d)
By: Dan St. John When: Aug 26, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the first and half of the second pitch, then bailed. The first pitch is the hardest 5.9 I have ever done. I have climbed my fair share of 5.10 OW and never wanted to puck like I did on Crack of Fear. The first pitch is honest 5.10 in my book. The second pitch shut me down. I fell out of the crack about the first bolt a couple of times. The old rusted 1/4 inch bolts gives me the willies. Would be a problem if some one replaced the old quarter inch bolts with nice new ones?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Rightovers : Left Y Crack (5.10)
By: Dan St. John When: Aug 20, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very Cool Rout. Took three attempt to get the red point. This is one of those climbs that is a much harder on lead than follow. Not that the follow is easy, it is the gear management access problem. For this reason I recommend that you save #1 cammolot for the section right after the OW. A 4.5 is nice for the final move. You may discard the #5 and place a #4 deep and low in the OW crux if you can climb 10-15 feet of OW above your gear. The fall is clean so fear here is in the m... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Spider Lady (5.9)
By: Dan St. John When: Aug 20, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeaaa, the traverse should get your attention. Managed to do it with out incident yet swore I was going for the swing on several occasions. It will put some hair on your chest. I give the traverse 5.10. The rest of the climb is 5.fun.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Rightovers : Excellent Crack (5.9)
By: Dan St. John When: Aug 20, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite fist crack. One OW move. Piece of Cake
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: Dan St. John When: Aug 12, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best climbs in the land.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Southwest Corner (5.10a)
By: Dan St. John When: Aug 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 10a crux was very sustained. I did not lead this pitch, and thank God. Julian Smith did a good job. If you place enough 5.9 and 5.10a moves with out stance in a row, does the rout deserve an upgrade? At the time I was feeling ready to move into the harder 10 grads, untill I was push to my climbing limit by this 10a.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop
By: Dan St. John When: Aug 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very dangerous [descent]. Did the [South Ridge Direct]. Found the climbing [unsustained]. It would be a great introduction to RMNP if the [descent] was not so convoluted. I found the crux climbing disappointedly short, yet this 5.9 crack was excellent.
Question-Would anybody complain is a installed a rap [route] from the notch? This would allow one to get off [safely] and climb another [route] since we toped [out before] noon and were moving at normal pace.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Hesse-Ferguson (5.9 R)
By: Dan St. John When: Aug 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my most memorable climbs, max stars. The rout requires some composure. It is hard to tell what is what on pitch two,(not my lead) never the less all lines look about equal. Pitch three starts the business ( a great lead with some head control necessary). Julian's description is perfect yet I feel their need to be a foot note.
_It is my opinion that we were off rout since the guide book talk about a giant roof going at 10d. Fact; we were definitely under the biggest roof on the... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Gollum's Arch Rock : Gollum's Arch (5.10b/c)
By: Dan St. John When: Aug 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, climbed it and loved it except for the fact I only took doubles in the big hands. Here is what you will need to place gear every 6-12 feet. (2/3)#4, 4#3, 2#2, 1#1, 1#.75 Camalots. Be sure to save one #3 for the roof. Placed some smaller Aliens before the traversing out on the face to attack the roof, which looked intimidation but turns out to be a pussy cat.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Dan St. John When: Aug 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Outstanding Climb. You can run pitch 2 and 3 together if you stretch the rope to the knot for 200 feet of 5.8 hand jamming with excellent exposure. It may require a simal climbing for 5 or so feet depending how you place your gear. Use supper long runners on the traverse from the end of pitch one and the lower part corner.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Cheap Date (5.10b)
By: Dan St. John When: Jul 29, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard climb on lead! Difficult to place good gear since the upper section requires a sort of lay backing technique. The crack in undulating and flaring, hence good placements require a good look, and free hand, good balance, and staying power. This is an excellent test of your ability to manage you head ( small cams keep my attention), gear, and climbing skills . Unfortunately I failed at the upper section but am looking forward to take the test again. An excelent finsh to Fat City for a free cli... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Fat City Crack (5.10c)
By: Dan St. John When: Jul 29, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt like a boulder problem that once you work it you wonder why you thought it was hard in the first place. Very Hard Move at the roof, and the finger crack is full value. Got crushed at the roof but figured out the sequence by hanging at taking a good look. The rating is for the OS lead, and I feel that due to the nature of the crux ( blinded ) that it is harder due to it's trickery. I have had some success at 11a but this roof shut me down hard. It was embarrassing hanging while a party behin... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Turnkorner (5.10a)
By: Dan St. John When: Jul 22, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the rating was close to acurate, possibly 5.10c. The crux of the route is the gear management. On the first roof (5.10b), place the gear primarly on the right side. One the second 5.10 pitch, you will need to evenly distribute the gear on both sides, since it is advantageous to switch back and forth from left side to right side in. And, if possible, run the pitch on out to the top when the big ledge (5.5 scramble) is, since the semihanging bely is uncomfortable. I recommend this route ... more >>
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