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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires : Lower Cathedral Spire : South by Southwest (5.11a)
By: Dan Brockway When: Jul 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We wrapped with one rope but I think it is better to have two allowing you to skip the hanging rappel station. This station appears to be bomber and safe (good newish looking bolts) but I just found it scary watching the ends of my rope flapping in the breeze (below the rap station) especially since there is pretty good exposure there.
Great views from the summit. Makes you realize you are in Yosemite.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-)
By: Dan Brockway When: May 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Death flake below the Narrows? We did this on May 14, 2009 and we did not notice a dangerous flake there. Could it have fallen out?
I found the offwidth pitches especially the Narrows very hard but probably typical for Yosemite 5.10 offwidth. (ie darn hard)
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : The Godfather (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Dan Brockway When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the climb was great! The south-facing exposure gives Arrowhead a longer season than some of the other popular areas in the park. On the last pitch I thought the gear was adequate but small and a little hard to place. Both of the last two pitches are great but full value at 11a and 11b. (Maybe it was just the altitude.) In general, I thought the whole route had sort of an old school feel to it with adequate gear but a few spicy sections to keep you on your toes.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.10a)
By: Dan Brockway When: Jul 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Malcolm, Those chains have been there for well over 20 years and allow a lot of people to be able to do a great 5.10a. A lot of people do not lead 5.11 trad. Why should 5.10 climbers be deprived of a one of the best 5.10 pitches in the area, especially since it has been there so long. I don't view it as a convenience anchor. Leading pitch one and two together would be interesting. With the weight of the rope there would be significant rope drag. I lead the second pitch in 1986 with a belay... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Tese (5.10)
By: Dan Brockway When: Jun 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the extension today and thought it made the climb much more classic and enjoyable. Thanks for the work guys.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon
By: Dan Brockway When: Jun 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rattlesnake migration??? Well I have been there nine summers in a row during this "migration" period and have yet to see a rattlesnake although I have seen a lot of bull snakes which are often mistaken for rattlesnakes. During my summer trips there I got to know the campground hosts Chuck and Mitzi (sp?) They lived at the Sinks Canyon campground for several summers. Chuck was a retired cowboy and the kind of guy that knew a rattlesnake when he saw one. He had never seen one and thought it w... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Talking Out Of Turn (5.10)
By: Dan Brockway When: Mar 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route Bob. A really nice addition to the canyon in the 5.10 range.
We did the whole route (12 bolts) with a 60 meter rope but belayed about 10 feet below the first bolt. A 60 meter rope easily makes it from there but as always be careful. Tie a knot in the end of your rope if there is any doubt in your mind.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon
By: Dan Brockway When: Feb 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Killer Cave is definitely climbable in the rain. The routes are hard though. Check the guidebook.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1 : Like Water for Bob (5.10c)
By: Dan Brockway When: Feb 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Rolofson guidebook calls this PG-13 between the second and third bolt. After a move just above the bolt, you get good holds to clip the third bolt. You can even get a red Black Diamond C3 in a crack a couple feet above the bolt if you want it. Good route that is worth doing so be careful, but don't let the PG-13 rating keep you from doing the route.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road
By: Dan Brockway When: Nov 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, please leave the dogs at home.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: Dan Brockway When: Sep 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, have been to Tonnere Tower and climbed most of the routes there and am surprised about the controversy above. Are there signs of impacts from the climbing? Yes, but the area (especially the base) looks to me pretty much like any other area.
Is it overcleaned and excavated? Gosh, maybe, I did see signs of cleaning. But for all you that must have adventure, be assured there is still loose rock up there. We easily pulled a bowling-ball-sized, loose rock off (and were able to stuff it in... more >>
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Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Miner's Delight (5.11b)
By: Dan Brockway When: Jul 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, what a great route. A very nice exposed "jughaul" and indeed pumpy. We walked off and that seemed safe and easier than rapping.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon
By: Dan Brockway When: Oct 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sinks now has a lot of 5.10s and even some great 8's and 9's so there is something for everybody. Climbed there last July 4th after the routes went in the shade (about 3:00 PM that time of year) and my son and I were the only people on the crag. In the shade the temperature was fine. Can't explain the lack of people but it was really a terrific day! Also don't miss the Gannett Grill.
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Location: CO : Search Continues for missin...
By: Dan Brockway When: Sep 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The water is very low. I was out there yesterday and saw a guy walking up and down the creek presumably looking for any sign of a body. So, it appears they have thought of that.
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Location: CO : Bush Administration Land Sa...
By: Dan Brockway When: Mar 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to Bruce and Mark for the information, I was not aware of the legal details and am glad to hear it. Still we have a threat on our hands and it is good that people are starting to realize it.
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Location: CO : Bush Administration Land Sa...
By: Dan Brockway When: Mar 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mark, I heartily agree with the "leave not trace ethic." That will help and is an excellent point. However, I still believe that the liability issue is huge and will lead to closure if territorialism, privacy issues, or exclusivity doesn't.
Tragically, a lot of people have died in Boulder Canyon in climbing accidents. I can just see an attorney explaining to an owner "well how can you be sure that you have adequately warned the people on your land of the risk". The landowner has everything... more >>
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Location: CO : Bush Administration Land Sa...
By: Dan Brockway When: Mar 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There most certainly will be demand for the land across Hwy 119 and the Dream Canyon parcels. In looking for a comparable parcel I found a 175 acre property for sale for $1,900,000 in the Nederland area. You don't have to build over the entire area. Just be able to get a house on the the most accessible portion of the property and you have a marketable piece of property. If the land goes for sale I promise you it will be quickly bought and eventually developed. The new home owner will quick... more >>
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