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Dan Russell


Member Since: Jul 6, 2001
Last Visit: Jan 17, 2005
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Point Rank: # 990
Total Points: 630
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dan Russell been climbing?










Contributions


All 182 | Routes 11 | Areas 6 | Photos 69 | Page Improvements | Comments 85 | Posts | Stars 11 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon
By: Dan Russell When: Nov 27, 2004

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Comments: If you drive up Cheyenne Canyon, there is a trailhead at the top where the road turns sharply to the north. The trailhead is obvious with a parking lot and small building. The trail goes up to Helen Hunt Falls. Not sure who she is.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Three Graces : The Window (5.2)
By: Dan Russell When: Aug 30, 2004

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Comments: I heard he was on the west face, but that may not be correct. Either way, he was attempting to lead some of the loose topropes, not advisable. I met him a few years ago briefly, but didn't really know him. Heard he was a good person, though, tragic.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Grapefruit Dance (5.12b)
By: Dan Russell When: Aug 23, 2004

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Comments: I don't think it broke, but I could be wrong. The jug changes all the time, becoming slopier or juggier depending on the wear.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Punani Area/North Canyon : ... : Punani (V7-8)
By: Dan Russell When: Aug 5, 2004

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Comments: Follow that trail down until it forks. Take the left fork. After a minute or so you cross a bridge and the trail turns back to the right, paralleling the stream. When it turns back left/uphill/away from the stream, plunge straight ahead across the field. Following the streambed you'll quickly come to many boulders in the streambed itself. Punani is among them. Sorry, but directions to this are hard to be specific with. Post again if you still have trouble and I'll draw a map to email to you. It'... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : Big Sky (5.7)
By: Dan Russell When: Jul 31, 2004

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Comments: I know it's been there at least since the late 90's. I think it is indicated in the Soft Touch III guide with a couple x's on a topo, but I could be wrong.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : Red Twin : Potholes (5.7)
By: Dan Russell When: Jul 29, 2004

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Comments: I have to say I was a little surprised to hear about the new bolt, even though it's replacing an original pin. The rationale that it makes a popular climb safer for beginners is valid, and I've had the same thought process in the past when I've had clients on the route. Nevertheless, my gut reaction is that it's unnecessary. Too many climbers expect evenly spaced bolts. The same climbers often get stuck on the half dozen or so "well-bolted" routes because of the huge mental gap between those and... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Pale Fire (5.12b)
By: Dan Russell When: Dec 25, 2003

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Comments: Can't say I've done this route, but I rapped it after doing Primrose Dihedrals on the other side and was impressed. What a beautiful looking line!


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : The Army Route (5.5)
By: Dan Russell When: Dec 8, 2003

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Comments: Larry-

There are a billion variations to this route and it wanders, as you discovered. That said... At the start of P2, move left as you did and then go up through a bolt or two close together. But instead of going up 30-40 ft make it only 10-15 ft, something like that, then move up and right around the corner and straight up again. This stretch is mostly just unprotected though for 30 feet or so, but fortunately only 5.3 or so, no biggie. In general, the best rock is the 1st pitch for sure, bu... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park
By: Dan Russell When: Nov 30, 2003

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Comments: Topo here...

bigwall.com/radiator.html


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Leaning Wall : Spaceshot (5.7 C2)
By: Dan Russell When: Nov 20, 2003

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Comments: Especially seeing as it's inches away from a fatty crack.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Leaning Wall : Spaceshot (5.7 C2)
By: Dan Russell When: Nov 20, 2003

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Comments: Cool picture, though. Anytime the road looks that far away it's good!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Dan Russell When: Nov 4, 2003

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Comments: I have to disagree that a crux bolt would be a good idea. It's not unreasonable the way it is and not wanting to buy a piece isn't a good reason to place a bolt. It's a trade route in that it is done regularly, yes, but at .10+ isn't like a Bastille Crack that will have many inexperienced climbers leading it. There are so many sew-up routes in Eldo that there's no need to make them all accessible to those who don't want a runout.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Sundevil Chimney (5.9 A3)
By: Dan Russell When: Nov 3, 2003

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Comments: If you're going to make it personal at least leave your name.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle : Balance (5.8)
By: Dan Russell When: Oct 27, 2003

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Comments: Balance is definitely a fun one. The routes Julian describes to either side: I know the crescent crack is an old Harvey Carter route, and the short overhang to the right is The Shiiter, a 3 bolt .12a, also fun.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Trade (5.10+ C2+)
By: Dan Russell When: Oct 14, 2003

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Comments: I've only been to the top of the aid pitch, but the wide stuff is pretty much over at that point so hopefully I can help.

We took only one #5, and had doubles of everything else. We brought a couple big bros as well but never used them. P1 was the longest and most sustained offwidth, but only took up to a #4. P2 had a bolt or two in spots and was kind of short, but wide. Don't remember the gear there. P3-4 were chimneys, and as such provide intermittent smaller placements. The Santa... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower
By: Dan Russell When: Oct 9, 2003

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Comments: Yeah, I was out there the day Fergie, Ric, and the blind guy climbed it, pretty cool stuff. We watched them from the top of Three Graces across the way for awhile. We scored some sodas off their camera crew!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Dan Russell When: Sep 20, 2003

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Comments: I'm not sandbagging it, I'm recommending it. I don't climb any harder than 5.11 in the desert, so it was hard for me, but it felt quite reasonable because it was a short crux. I said the cam was decent, and it was. I hung on it to test and it was fine. It was wobbly because the placement is a bit flared, but not in an "I'm about to pop out" kind of way, more like "I'm shifty but I'll be fine." It was a #4 or #4.5, something like that - they almost always move a bit.

Don't get me wro... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Dan Russell When: Sep 18, 2003

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Comments: I'll echo Charles' remarks and suggest skipping that hanging belay. It doesn't even make sense to use it, as the two resulting pitches would be ridiculously short considering their ease.

In the offwidth, I found it an easier lieback than pure offwidth, at least until the top part. You can still reach the bolts if you strain.

I'm also going to recommend the direct start. I gather that a lot of people skip it, and use the 5.8 traverse to reach the route. The direct may be rated .11d, but the har... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Bouldering : The Blowouts Area : Long Traverse (V6)
By: Dan Russell When: Sep 14, 2003

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Comments: It's harder if you go all the way from the cave on the right, and of course can be made as ridiculous as you want it to be. The easiest way through the main, chalked section is about V3.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : White Twin : West Face (5.8)
By: Dan Russell When: Sep 7, 2003

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Comments: It's a 5.10 route alright, but that's with the upper moves if you climb the face directly. Those first moves aren't 5.10, though they are kind of height-dependent. Unless you're short, the mono is just for balance while you jump from your feet to the undercling. I could be wrong on this, as it's been several years since I did it.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon
By: Dan Russell When: Sep 6, 2003

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Comments: Your description is a bit vague... Are you talking about Graduation Boulder?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : East Side : Mighty Thor (5.10c)
By: Dan Russell When: Sep 6, 2003

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Comments: Most of those cable anchors seem to be placed as triangles.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : West Face : Sword in the Stone (5.8)
By: Dan Russell When: Aug 29, 2003

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Comments: Chris, I don't remember how many pins were on the traverse, but two sounds about right. You're right about the fall - if you fell from parts of that traverse you'd be pretty torn up! Just watch what you pull on I guess, huh?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : West Face : Sword in the Stone (5.8)
By: Dan Russell When: Aug 24, 2003

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Comments: Yeah, but isn't that first section good? I don't recall the bird crap but I do recall looseness (fun, Garden looseness).


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac
By: Dan Russell When: Aug 9, 2003

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Comments: Well, for starters I spoke with someone who has rapped from the summit down the route, so it can be done. I myself have rapped down the ledges above the Calvinator and it was a piece of cake, hardly treacherous. Also, if you intended to rap the route, you wouldn't be hauling above the ledges now, would you?


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