Contributed Comments |
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Location: IA : Palisades Kepler State Park
By: Dan Roberts When: Feb 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing has been going on here for many decades. Nice cliffs. I know bouldering is getting bigger up there so if anyone knows get it posted because this area can use some traffic. I have the old guide and will be posting out of that as I get to it.
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Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Collin's wall aka Parking l... : Collin's Crack (5.6 PG13)
By: Dan Roberts When: Feb 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun crack with a weird tranny into the overhang.
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Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Collin's wall aka Parking l... : Old and Decrepit (5.6)
By: Dan Roberts When: Feb 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great first lead. Stay right at the top to keep it easy or go left and puzzle out the mantle.
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Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Collin's wall aka Parking l... : The Young and the Bold (5.8)
By: Dan Roberts When: Feb 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Much more sporting to clip the anchors while hanging from the overhang or in the rain. Oh and don't use the detached rock in the horizantal crack before the overhang. Great intro to 5.8 leading. The link to Collins crack goes 9/10 ish below overhang.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Annadonia Area : Year of the Ankle (5.9)
By: Dan Roberts When: Feb 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ankles beware. Must do if you only do the generic wall.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Annadonia Area : Geriatric Sex Maniacs from ... (5.10c)
By: Dan Roberts When: Feb 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wonderful commiting move before the ledge. Look of less obvious holds for the crux. Dirty above the ledge.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Annadonia Area : Micro Balls (5.9+)
By: Dan Roberts When: Feb 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you figure out the top first go I will give you two thumbs up. Climbed it a dozen time and I still struggle at the top.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Annadonia Area : Cinq Jour D'Affille (5.7)
By: Dan Roberts When: Feb 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Enjoyable as a warm up or cool down. Better climbers should try to stick with the bolt line. Neos can cut right into the nasty crack. Loose rock at the top, but just be smart with your holds.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Cyclops Area : Pigeon Paranoia (5.10+)
By: Dan Roberts When: Feb 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun and a bit puzzling climb on the first go. Second was really just for a good time. Wrist slot is critical and the blind foot placement into the pocket when mounting the slab is a riot. 10c sounds right.
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Location: IA : Pictured Rocks
By: Dan Roberts When: Feb 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: P-Rocks is just a fun place to climb. Don't be afraid to explore up river once the trail narrows. Over the Counter is a classic anywhere so go find it.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : Jam and Jelly (5.7)
By: Dan Roberts When: Sep 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of loose gravel at the top ledge. Belayer beware. #1 camalot and .75 is what I used to protect the bottom. Very slick. Good climb none the less.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : New Vice Area : Goofed On Skunk Weed (5.8-)
By: Dan Roberts When: Sep 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Trad lead. Use a 00 TCU to protect the "mount-the-ledge-move" at the bottom then it is good nut and small cam placements to the top. I used a #4 camalot near the top where the cracks split. Remember it is bad form to use the two holes and to clip the chains before standing on the ledge.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs
By: Dan Roberts When: Sep 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Grab the updated guide at IME in Salt lake. Proceds go to bolting fund. Great job to Mr. Martinez and anyone else involved with the development of the area. Enjoyed my time there.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : New Vice Area : Jenna's Face (5.8 PG13)
By: Dan Roberts When: Sep 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard Start, with slick feet. Crash pad and a DMM#3 nut left of the flake are good pro for the start.
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Location: MN : Temperance River SP (North ... : Carlton Peak : West Face : 2 (5.5)
By: Dan Roberts When: Sep 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great practice lead. Can multi up the over hang to the right (5.6) and up the slab ( minimal pro).
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Location: MN : Ely's Peak (Duluth) : Dislocation Overhang (5.6)
By: Dan Roberts When: Jul 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hardest looking overhang that is easy to pull. Great for photo opps.
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Location: MN : Ely's Peak (Duluth) : Static is a Four Letter Wor... (5.10b)
By: Dan Roberts When: Jul 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Foot positioning is the most important part here. Reach and smear. Climb is more fun if you start at the bottom.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : New Vice Area : B.F. Bugs (5.9)
By: Dan Roberts When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've climbed it 30ish times and it still gets me sketched out. Work hard for that direct start.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : New Vice Area : No Whippin Boys (5.10a)
By: Dan Roberts When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb. Move quick.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : New Vice Area : Call of the Mild (5.11b)
By: Dan Roberts When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I find it easier to not use as much of the "crack" at the begining, but use some crimpy face holds and quick moves to the jugs. Be ready for slick foot holds at the second crux.
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Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Shiprock : Over The Counter (5.9 PG13)
By: Dan Roberts When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A favorite at P-Rocks. Nice sustained route. 9+ for sure, but as for the pg-13 rating I don't think so. Second bolt is where it should be with some nice holds to use to get it.
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Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : A Wall : Hope for a Boner (5.10a)
By: Dan Roberts When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A must for P-Rocks. One of the longest and it reminds me of the Red Wing crimp climbs.
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Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Wild Iowa Wall : Hot Tamale (5.10a)
By: Dan Roberts When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Try to climb it out of the cave for extra length
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Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Wild Iowa Wall : Atropine (5.10a)
By: Dan Roberts When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two move wonder it is. I think I used every muscle to its max for the direct start till I could sink two fingers in a hole then it was easy going.
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