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Me on the Summit of Castleton


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 302
Total Points: 1,848
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
132 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 475 | Routes 77 | Areas 11 | Photos 173 | Page Improvements | Comments 48 | Posts 84 | Stars 81 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Stairway to Heaven (5.3)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Jun 11, 2004

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Comments: Not a bad route at all--maybe not quite "top ten" but I'll have to do the other ridges for comparison. Great jugs for much of the route and the climbing can be made to be continuous by sticking to the ridge. If this ridge were on a high peak it would surely be a classic. As of 6-11-04 there are two new bolts on top of "Like Heaven," two beefy ones with ASCA hangars and chains. Looks like you could rap to East or west from these.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Backporch : East Face/Back Porch (5.6)
By: Dan Mottinger When: May 16, 2004

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Comments: I agree with the above people that this climb is not quite "Top Ten" quality (in my book) compared to other Flatiron climbs. (Two stars still b/c of position and the character of the rock) While Flatiron climbing is runout as a rule, I found this to be more noticeably more runout than other climbs (maybe just because it's a little harder slab climbing). Trying to choose a line that was more protectable, I found it to be less aesthetic--following and clipping old hangerless bolts, and ring pins... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Castle Rock/Lower Falls Ice
By: Dan Mottinger When: Dec 30, 2003

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Comments: Drove by on 12-26-03 and the lower falls were in surprisingly decent shape. The formations to the East (by the roof) were in and being climbed. The ones to the West (the slabby dihedral/chimney) looked really thin, probably not worth climbing for pure ice.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Shakespearean Theatre &... : The Revolution (5.10d)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Dec 30, 2003

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Comments: At the crux (second bolt), I kind of went straight up and to the right over the roof, still within clipping disance of the bolt to the left. This felt maybe 10b, and I then had to traverse left a ways to clip the third cold shut. I suppose going left at the second bolt to the third is the intended way, but I couldn't tell--not much traffic here, didn't see any chalk on these climbs.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Shakespearean Theatre &... : Butterfly McQueens' Birthda... (5.9+)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Dec 30, 2003

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Comments: Note: This route is labeled by the Butterfly McQueens' Birthday correctly on the bottom of the image but is also marked incorrectly as Jamuary at the top. Jamuary is the crack to the right.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Bozo No No (5.11a)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Nov 23, 2003

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Comments: I led this last April and didn't test out any of the bolts beside the anchor bolts. Nothing remarkable that I remember as far as being a bad bolt or a spinner, so they should be ok. It would be a good idea to check first on TR or rappell if there's suspicion though. I think that some of these bolts have been replaced since the originals but can't be sure.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Falls Wall : Not Long For This World (5.10a)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Nov 17, 2003

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Comments: A few things, reading the book this route starts off "Begin at the right side of the flake..." after trying to figure out the route at the base, I realized that we were ON the flake, which has fallen off. The flake must have been off since 99 b/c I can't remember it being there when I first tried the route.There is an obvious outline of the 10' by 10' flake on the wall. I don't know if the flake was good flack laybacking or not so don't know about the rating of that part. One can go up a cr... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Peaches and Scream (5.6)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Jul 27, 2003

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Comments: Correction: For an easier finish when leading, follow the large ledge right which is ~8' below the top. Also the 'direct finish' is not too bad for difficulty if one veers more to the left for a few moves. It can protect, but the placements might not be bomber (Tricams in pockets, horizontal placements etc.), so be solid for leading the route.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Licorice Stick (5.9)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Mar 20, 2003

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Comments: While not a hard 5.9, I believe this route deserves the 5.9 rating. Steep sustained and a few tricky techniques when leading it. When compared to 5.8 trad climbs at the Wood, this climb is a notch harder, IMHO.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : South Canyon Point : Conspicuous Consumption (5.8)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Mar 18, 2003

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Comments: I've taken maybe two falls doing trad at Castlewood and both times my pieces held. The first was a firteen footer onto a #9 hex and the second onto a few fall nuts. The nuts were only in some face features and held after about a 6-8' fall. However, in some places where the rock does get soft, I would't like falling onto the pieces as a rule. I have practiced aid on cams in horizonal cracks and have had them blown, I believe because they hit irregularities in the conglomerate rock. Tri... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Honeycomb Spire : Unreliable Skinhead (5.10a)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Jan 13, 2003

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Comments: Correction: this route goes LEFT of Honey Crack (not right) and stays right of the edge.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Coat of Arms Corner and The...
By: Dan Mottinger When: Dec 30, 2002

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Comments: It wasn't mentioned yet so I'll say to bring very long slings and/or an extra rope to set up topropes for most of these climbs. There simply isn't a lot for pro at the top of some of the climbs so the closest anchors are trees and boulders a ways away from the cliff top.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : Pack the Walls (5.6)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Sep 15, 2002

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Comments: Please note that this route follows the cracks marked as number 2 in the bottom picture.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Banana Peel (5.8)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Sep 3, 2002

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Comments: The way I'm comfortable with setting up these climbs (on the tower) is to approach from the tip and sit on the edge of the main wall and bridge the gap with your feet. At this point you can clip yourself into the anchors while still being (relatively) safe and then cross the gap.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray...
By: Dan Mottinger When: Apr 1, 2002

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Comments: As of March 27, 2002 the climbs in the ice park were in and not too hacked out. The park below the lower bridge is closed due to the warm temps but the Schoolroom area is in. Some of the harder lines are melted out but the lower angle flows in the shade were O.K.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : West Crack (5.2)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Apr 1, 2002

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Comments: This is a great climb for being so easy-- steep, somewhat exposed, and full of friendly holds where ever you look. Be careful pulling the rope down after rapping since the crack system will gobble it up.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Five and Dime Wall
By: Dan Mottinger When: Feb 20, 2002

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Comments: Hanson's Guidebook states that this wall is actually north of the state park boundary, although climbing here has never been a problem. I try to keep a low profile and don't trash the place so there won't be any problems in the future.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face North Side/Seal R... (5.4)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Sep 6, 2001

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Comments: A Fun Flatirons romp for any slabmonger. The obvious crack on the upper part of the route shouldn't be missed since it provides unique crack/slab climbing. I did the climb using only runners and hexes, save one nut in the crack.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Banana Peel (5.8)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Jul 4, 2001

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Comments: This route makes for a good spicy lead for those wanting to try it. I used a two cams, then two nuts at the same level to protect it. I know the nuts hold since I fell onto them. Topping out is tricky for an 8. Am I missing something? Dan Mottinger


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Strawberry Jam (5.5)
By: Dan Mottinger When: May 31, 2001

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Comments: This route has tons of hidden jugs on the face that didn't require any use of the actual crack. As Ben said, if you want to lead bring some tricams etc. for pockets or get some big cams/ pro. A few cam placements can be used for a TR.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Gorilla Milk (5.7+)
By: Dan Mottinger When: May 31, 2001

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Comments: This is a good route for beginers as it has huge jugs and good handholds. As of May 30, 2001 there are two shiny new bolts on top to set it up although one is missing a hanger. Bring some medium cams for a flake/crack placement on top or a hanger. We'll see if a new hanger can't be put on that anchor.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Inner Canyon area : The Mod Pod aka Phallic Roc...
By: Dan Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I find the best descent down the NE crack and arete. Stem between the tree and the rock then down climb the tree or rock.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : South Canyon Point : Conspicuous Consumption (5.8)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: If you want my cam in the upper crack section, it's all yours. Good luck getting that sucker out.


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