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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : Pellea
By: Dan Mottinger When: Jan 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was optimistic and wanted to save weight by bringing a 30m rope on this climb for the rap off. It turns out this does work, just be sure to knot the ends and land on a chockstone in the chimney or you can easily chimney just above the ground.
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Location: CO : Walnut Brewery - Rocky Moun...
By: Dan Mottinger When: Oct 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Save your thirst for another week--this just got moved to the following week on November 11th. Same plan, just a week later.
www.rockymountainrescue.org/walnut.php
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Location: Dan Mottinger : Indian Creek Fall 08 : Photo
By: Dan Mottinger When: Dec 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This wall's great for the end of the day light--I miss the desert sun myself
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons
By: Dan Mottinger When: Aug 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gerry Roach's guidebook to the area, Flatiron Classics is now back in print from the CMC press, the newer version includes more photos than the hard to find original from the late '80s. This book is geared towards scrambling and slabmongering--the grades top out at 5.8, thus it is not comprehensive as a Flatirons guidebook.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering : Gerbil in a Chute (V3-4) : Photo
By: Dan Mottinger When: Jul 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice lighting on the rock!
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Shakespearean Theatre &... : Lives of Quiet Desperation (5.8 C2 R)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Mar 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also like that there are still plenty of new lines for those willing to look around the Wood--I've scoped the other line you mention Tom, and it looks to be of good quality.
As to going free, it probably could at a hard grade a bit harder than I can climb and would also be quite dicey for the (likely) beginning crux moves--committing to leading the first few moves (and really the whole main roof) would expose the leader to ground-fall potential.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Photo
By: Dan Mottinger When: Feb 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very Nice!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Nov 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fixed gear alert/info: the second anchor has one of of its two expansion bolts moving around a bit in the hole
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Deception (5.9)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Jul 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not too bad to link up the two pitches into one, extending the bolt anchor sling genrously. In addition to the #4 Camalot where the the second pitch goes wide, I placed a #4.5 Camalot to protect the final wide section.
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Location: Ron Olsen : El Potrero Chico : Photo
By: Dan Mottinger When: Apr 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shirt!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : A Tall Cool One (5.12a)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Mar 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This makes a reasonable climb to do some quick aid practice, right by the road. You can basically climb the entire pitch as a bolt ladder, with a few mandatory free moves that are pretty easy, but still require getting out of the aiders. Don't need any gear besides draws when done this way with a few easy free moves.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Thing
By: Dan Mottinger When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This rock is also known as the Needle's Eye and the Morning After (it goes by Morning After in Roach's guide).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Mar 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was able to link the first two pitches described here (First three guidebook pitches) into one, stopping just shy of the normal belay ledge. This was with a 70 m rope, which is long enough to make it to the regular belay (a 60 m might work?). Plenty of runners help, although I ended up with a fair amount of rope drag on easier climbing.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Hidden Falls (main) (WI4)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Feb 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 2-24-07 the main falls were all in, not wet--plenty hacked up. The small left flow was in and the right steep flow had no ice.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Eureka : Stairway to Heaven (WI4)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Dec 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Warren--see last beta photo from 12-8-06. Ice was in for 5 + pitches and had minimal avalanche danger as of 12-8-06, pay attention to Wx and avalanche forecasts that may change conditions.
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Location: John J. Glime : climbing : Photo
By: Dan Mottinger When: Dec 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Everythings body size dependent right? Nice picture
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Boulder Falls - Ice : Boulder Falls (WI2)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Dec 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe there are two bolts at the top of the falls on a block right above the falls
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Photo
By: Dan Mottinger When: Aug 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Crestone group seems to be mislabelled in this map as to which peak goes where
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Achean Pronouncement
By: Dan Mottinger When: May 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this rock is included in the raptor closure from Feb 1-July 31.
Info: www.bouldercolorado.gov/index.php?option=com_content&task=vi>>>
Map here: www.bouldercolorado.gov/images/departments/openspace/images_>>>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Aquarium Wall : Gish (5.10a)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Apr 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 70 m rope lets you rap from the top anchor to the ground--just barely though (needed the 4-5 feet of rope stretch to reach or swing right a litte)
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Scarface (5.11)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Apr 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the three bolts at the anchor wiggles around in your hands. This is the center bolt with a large, rounded edge hangar. The other two bolts seem fine and are adequate for an anchor and getting off (have chains between these two).
Super route and still pumpy with a no-gear to clean top rope.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Electra Glide : Catch You Later (5.9+)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Jul 17, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: As Tony mentions, most/all of the gear in the upper crux section is placed in contact with a large, long flake or two that sound kind of hollow with the flake expanding possible. I thought one or two placements in the crux might have held a fall but still wouldn't want to test it out...
There are rap slings in the tree at the top of the climb to descend.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Electra Glide : Catch You Later (5.9+)
By: Dan Mottinger When: Jun 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note: This is climb #2 in the beta photo. The climb makes a reasonably well protected lead with bomber gear up to the roof and then small nut and microcam placements in the crux section.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Rock Island II : Candelaria's Crack (5.12a)
By: Dan Mottinger When: May 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you want to set up a top rope you can place several good pieces (hand-fist sized cams) in the crack a few feet above the lip for an anchor to avoid going up the loose slope above.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP
By: Dan Mottinger When: Nov 4, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: To answer the question AC asked above, climbing in Castlewood during January should not be a problem unless there is a coldspell. Seek out south facing crags such as Wendell Spire, Juggernaut, South Canyon Point, etc. I've climbed over winter breaks in a T-shirt when there was ice formed up in the shadowy depths of the canyon.
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