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Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Dan Levison


Point Rank: # 1,069
Total Points: 544
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
30 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (282) | Routes (27) | Areas (2) | Photos (37) | Comments (59) | Posts (43) | Stars (73) | Ratings (41)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : The Industrial Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.13b)
By: Dan Levison When: Nov 29, 2010

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Comments: Crux is hard if you're short. More like V8/9....


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Sinatra's World (5.13b)
By: Dan Levison When: Sep 5, 2010

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Comments: Brett Nelson and I replaced the 21 year old hardware (mostly Mammut Ring Bolts) and anchors on the route today. All new hardware is 1/2" stainless including the anchor. Thanks to ARI and Climbing Magazine for the bolts/hangers, and thanks to OSMP (Rick Hatfield and Burton Stoner) for the permit/approval.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Slave to the Rhythm (5.13b)
By: Dan Levison When: Sep 25, 2009

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Comments: Brilliant sport route. A Dan Michaels' mega-classic. Solid at the grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Snake Watching (5.13a)
By: Dan Levison When: Jun 23, 2009

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Comments: Old school Flatirons mega-classic. V6 boulder problem to 120 feet of techy 5.12, capped by an enormous two-tiered roof.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : s00kr33m (5.13b)
By: Dan Levison When: May 28, 2009

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Comments: Definitely worth the hype; 5 start route in a 5 star setting. Thanks Matt and Ted.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : El Barrio (V8-9)
By: Dan Levison When: Apr 8, 2009

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Comments: Also, don't underestimate the final "lip" traverse before the exit jugs, on the dog it feels easy, on the redpoint go it's incredibly pumpy and without a doubt the redpoint crux....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon
By: Dan Levison When: Nov 14, 2008

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Comments: Hey Matt:

The steepest section of Boulder Canyon that gets a lot of sun is Bitty Buttress (The Lorax). Your best bet is to go up to the final crux on the Lorax and jump off -- massive air...probably the steepest route in Bo-Can.

DL


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Berlin Wall : East Germany (5.13a)
By: Dan Levison When: Oct 17, 2008

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Comments: I added a three-bolt direct start to this last week. Grade is still the same (12d/13a) despite all the noise from 2003. Anyway, the line is a lot more lineal now with no rope drag, and a fun/steep bouldery start up the pillar.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Berlin Wall : Fall of the Wall (5.12b)
By: Dan Levison When: Sep 5, 2008

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Comments: The 3rd and 4th bolt have been moved to better clipping positions (lower and slightly right). Additionally a 2 bolt extension has been added so the route now goes to the top of the wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Berlin Wall : Walpurgisnacht (5.11-)
By: Dan Levison When: Sep 5, 2008

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Comments: I rebolted this route today replacing the old, rusted hardware with modern hardware (Hilti SS KB 3s and Metolius SS hangers). This route is now the primary warm-up on the wall. Thanks to Roy Barnes for his assistance with the bolt removal and patching.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Pinche Guey (5.12-)
By: Dan Levison When: Aug 13, 2008

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Comments: Probably the best route at the crag. A right kneebar at the crux (getting into the overhanging blocky rock) makes the crux straight forward and enjoyable, without the kneebar/kneepad (jessery, cheating, whatever) the crux is painful and hard relying on powerful pinching. Great route and nice addition to the crag....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab
By: Dan Levison When: Aug 8, 2008

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Comments: Does anyone know what the sport route is that is just right of Dracula? It doesn't appear to be documented anywhere? I believe it's a Steve Damboise route? Bolted a couple years ago?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Resonator (5.12d)
By: Dan Levison When: Aug 2, 2008

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Comments: Great summer route that stays in the shade most of the day. A four-tiered roof followed by a tricky face with a slight run to the chains. A kneepad (right knee) and taping (right hand) is helpful depending on your beta.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Verve (5.13c)
By: Dan Levison When: Jul 15, 2008

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Comments: I replaced the 4 bolts on Verve today with Roy Barnes. 3 of the bolts were 20+ year-old Mammut Ring bolts, and the 4th bolt was an 8mm Allen Mammut bolt (scary condition). All old holes were patched. The new hardware is 1/2" x 2.75" stainless Powers bolts with Petzl hangers. Special thanks to Matt Samet (Climbing Magazine) and the ARI for supplying the hardware!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Caught in the Web (5.12b/c)
By: Dan Levison When: Jul 13, 2008

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Comments: This thing is brutal -- a very shouldery press move after the 4th bolt is the crux but the next 15 feet remain hard. Powerful route...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Blood Doll (5.12a)
By: Dan Levison When: Jul 1, 2008

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Comments: I lowered the crux bolt (last bolt) about a foot so it is now possible to clip before starting the deceptive crux moves. Be careful when lowering off this pitch (when linking this with Pincushion) as a 60 M rope will just make it to the Pincushion anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : The Patio : Clyde's Big Adventure (5.12a)
By: Dan Levison When: May 7, 2008

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Comments: Great route albeit a bit of a squeeze job. Killer knee bar getting over the initial roof (not the crux), had to stay disciplined not to veer left or right to the neighboring routes. A crux at mid-height replete w/ knee and hip scum will take off the edge while looking for a little crimp to get over a slight bulge. Slightly sporty in a couple places as most new routes will clean up and become quite good 2 stars (12a/b). Great addition to the Patio!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Photo
By: Dan Levison When: Mar 11, 2008

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Comments: I cleaned up the route a few years ago: replaced the flattened hanger at the start; I also replaced the crux bolt and the webbing tat above the crux with fixed chain draws. No "additional" bolts were added to the route. The anchor still needs work (probably should be moved); someone (about a year ago) added webbing and biners to the two anchor bolts so it would be extended over the edge (a temporary solution)...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Tiempos de Ceguera (Times o... (5.13b)
By: Dan Levison When: Mar 4, 2008

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Comments: I believe Song did the FFA, but who equipped this route (FA)?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Captain Crunch (5.13a)
By: Dan Levison When: Feb 10, 2008

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Comments: Great winter climb (2 windows of sun and protected from the wind). Exciting/spicy runouts hence the "S" rating. More fun than The Web!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : The Web (5.13)
By: Dan Levison When: Nov 18, 2007

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Comments: Whomever replaced the bolts did an excellent job! The replacement bolts are located approximately 3 or 4 inches right of where the original Mammut ring bolts used to be. The patching job is quality in that you really have to look hard to determine where the old holes used to be. The new hardware appears to be Fixe 12mm SS wedge bolts w/ ASCA-branded camo Fixe hangers w/ Fixe double rings at the anchors. Great hardware although when it's time to replace the bolts again (which may not be that ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Wire (5.12c)
By: Dan Levison When: Jun 5, 2007

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Comments: Adam, you say the route was chipped with such conviction. It's not obvious to me -- you may be correct; however, I would get the facts before making such a statement.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Wire (5.12c)
By: Dan Levison When: Jun 4, 2007

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Comments: Fantastic route despite the claims of it being chipped (hard to tell). It does have a lot of rock scars and friable rock in the upper dihedral, but the roof crux is way cool and the climbing very sustained -- 100 foot (30 meter) pitch. The flake at the chains is suspect and will eventually pull off (beware). Combined w/ Hot Flyer and Plan B in a single outing -- this would be a great power-endurance workout.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Squeeze Play (5.13c)
By: Dan Levison When: May 22, 2007

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Comments: Chris' beta is quite good -- the only thing I would add is that it's very difficult to clip the last bolt. I couldn't clip it. I took the big whip many times throwing for the "exit" hold before finally sending. Excellent route -- kudos to Steve Danboise and Steve Hong for this late (2004) addition to the crag.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Public Solitude (5.13)
By: Dan Levison When: Nov 22, 2006

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Comments: This is a killer route replete w/ a hideously technical, low percentage series of crux moves followed by abstract 5.12 moves up a funky groove.


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