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Member Since: Jun 8, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Dan Hickstein


Point Rank: # 5,341
Total Points: 71
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 38 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts 2 | Stars 7 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Tea and Scrumpet (FA)

V4 6B (6)

Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'

MD : Carderock

Jan 9, 2009

Buckets of Blood Arete

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c (6)

TR, 1 pitch, 25'

MD : Carderock

Jan 9, 2009

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
The X-face provides over 2,600 eliminate slab boul...

The X-face provides over 2,600 eliminate slab boulder problems.

MD : Carderock

Jan 10, 2009

Getting intimate with the rock while executing the...

Getting intimate with the rock while executing the scrumpet move.

MD : Carderock : Tea and Scrumpet (V4)

Jan 9, 2009

Tea and Scrumpet traverses the face in the center ...

Tea and Scrumpet traverses the face in the center of the photo using only holds that are below the one inch roof that is about 8 feet off the ground.

MD : Carderock : Tea and Scrumpet (V4)

Jan 9, 2009

Working the sit start of Buckets of Blood Arete.

Working the sit start of Buckets of Blood Arete.

MD : Carderock : Buckets of Blood Arete (5.11)

Jan 9, 2009

Susanna dancing up Buckets of Blood Arete.

Susanna dancing up Buckets of Blood Arete.

MD : Carderock : Buckets of Blood Arete (5.11)

Jan 9, 2009

Dan Hickstein pulling hard on Buckets of Blood Are...

Dan Hickstein pulling hard on Buckets of Blood Arete

MD : Carderock : Buckets of Blood Arete (5.11)

Jan 9, 2009

Buckets of Blood Arete is the right leaning arete ...

Buckets of Blood Arete is the right leaning arete in the middle on this photo.

MD : Carderock : Buckets of Blood Arete (5.11)

Jan 9, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Unknown (5.11-)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Nov 27, 2014

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Comments: Is this route really only 115 feet? This is what the guidebook says, but we were up there with only a single 70m rope today, and it looked at least 150', so we did not try it. Looks cool though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love (5.10b)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Nov 7, 2014

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Comments: Curtis Stevens and I replaced the 8 lead bolts on this climb with new 1/2" stainless steel 5-piece bolts. The first two bolts (in the chossy rock) were replaced with 4.75" bolts and the other lead bolts are 2.75".

All the work was permitted by Boulder OSMP.

Bolts and equipment were supplied by the BCC and the ASCA. Please support their bolt replacement efforts:
boulderclimbingcommunity.net
www.safeclimbing.org/

Additionally, I think that this is a very nice climb. It has several differ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Velvet Elvis (5.11a)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Nov 7, 2014

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Comments: On Nov. 2, 2014, Curtis Stevens and I replaced all of the bolts on Velvet Elvis (except for the top anchor, which had already been replaced). The sketchy 1980s lead bolts have been removed and replaced with 1/2 x 2.75" stainless steel 5-piece bolts. We equipped the first pitch anchor with two 1/2 x 4.75" super-duper bomber bolts, so you can have added confidence while rappelling into the void. We replaced the tat-slings on top of the second pitch with two stainless steel rap rings.

We also repl... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : The Raven (5.11 PG13)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: This route looks lichen-covered and slimy from the ground, but it's actually really fun! Leading it would probably be very scary, but this route makes a great toprope after climbing Velvet Elvis. From the Velvet Elvis anchor, climb about 100 feet of 5.0 north along the ridgeline (fun!), and get to the two bolt anchor on top of the Raven. Then you can rappel to the ground and TR the route. Epic stemming!


Location: MD : Carderock : Tea and Scrumpet (V4)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Kennedy, are you saying that you ended up pretty much in the position in the photo? The next move it the coolest! You need to kick your right leg all the way across the gap and onto the back wall. It's super dynamic and I need to be wearing really stretchy pants to pull it off. After you climb T&S, you can just keep traversing along the wall, past beginners crack, trying to stay as low as possible. After you pass the tree 30' right of beginners crack, there is another ~V4 upward traverse problem... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: That offwidth pitch is tough! I brought a number 5 C4, and I wish that I had brought two. I placed one at the low crux, and then I had to climb back down and get it so that I could use it again to place it for the upper crux. The upper crux is definitely easier, but it's fairly run out above a good #3 Camalot that I placed way back in the crack. There is a fixed knifeblade to protect the lower crux and a yellow Alien in an expanding flake that kinda protects the upper crux, but I was happy... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Major Bolt Achievement (MBA... (5.11a)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: What a great climb! A whole bunch of technical face moves and then a juggy roof make this one entertaining from bottom to top. I felt that the face moves were fairly hard to figure out on the first try and were maybe harder than the roof. The footholds are getting really polished, so maybe the climb is getting a little harder with time.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : Interstellar Overdrive (5.11b)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: Incredible contorted moves through the flare! Highly recommended if you like awkward climbing.

I grunted as hard as I could on this one and just barely scraped by on the onsight. Seemed more like 11+ unless I was missing a hold or something. Great route, but be ready for a thrash-battle.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : The Shaft (5.12b)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Excellent route! Thanks for putting it up!


Location: MD : Carderock : Tea and Scrumpet (V4)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Jun 9, 2009

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Comments: Rick, I'm not sure if it was done in the 80's: the route requires that the climber squash their genitals against the sharp arete, a technique that was not invented until 1998.


Location: MD : Carderock
By: Dan Hickstein When: Jan 10, 2009

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Comments: The secret of Carderock climbing is out! Once known only by locals, the area now draws climbers from as far away as Virginia and has even been visited by a climber from California: npr.org/templates/story/story....


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Rehabilitator (5.11c)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Sep 8, 2008

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Comments: I think the description should read "third route from the right".


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Vampire (5.11a)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Apr 11, 2007

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Comments: Per Stein's recommendation I tried the 'direct finish' and continued up the flakes, instead of taking the original pitch three out right. I found the climbing on those delicate flakes to be quite exciting as the footholds are small and it is uncertain if cams placed behind the flake would hold a fall or just pull a large chunk of the flake onto your head. At the end of the pitch you find yourself about ten feet shy of the bolted anchor, above gear in an expanding flake, with an odd 5.9 mant... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Dave's Deviation (5.9)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Apr 6, 2007

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Comments: An incredible first pitch, but don't head down too soon! Combining this climb with the excellent 5.7+ pitch of Piton Pooper to the insane 5.8 pitch of Upper Royal's Arch is, in my book, the best climb of it's grade at Tahquitz. If you're looking for a little more challenge in your day try Dave's without touching the tree! (5.11?)


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : On the Road (5.10c)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Apr 3, 2007

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Comments: I believe that I used down to a #4 stopper when the crack thinned. Nothing really thin. I agree with the PG, you have to make some 5.8 or 5.9 moves 10 feet above some small nuts.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : The Importance of Being Ern... (5.10c/d R)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Feb 24, 2007

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Comments: I didn't use any brass nuts on this climb. The first roof protects well with a bomber medium stopper. A blue-alien size is really nice for the second roof. Really fun moves!


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