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Member Since: Jun 8, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 16, 2016
Contact Dan Hickstein

Point Rank: # 6,026
Total Points: 87
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 60 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 2 | Stars 18 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Carderock Low Traverse (FA)

V5 6C (1)

Boulder, 500'

MD : Carderock

Dec 8, 2015

Tea and Scrumpet (FA)

V4 6B (6)

Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'

MD : Carderock

Jan 9, 2009

Buckets of Blood Arete

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c (9)

TR, 1 pitch, 25'

MD : Carderock

Jan 9, 2009

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: The X-face provides over 2,600 eliminate slab boul...

The X-face provides over 2,600 eliminate slab boulder problems.

MD : Carderock

Jan 10, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: Getting intimate with the rock while executing the...

Getting intimate with the rock while executing the scrumpet move.

MD : Carderock : Tea and Scrumpet (V4)

Jan 9, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: Tea and Scrumpet traverses the face in the center ...

Tea and Scrumpet traverses the face in the center of the photo using only holds that are below the one inch roof that is about 8 feet off the ground.

MD : Carderock : Tea and Scrumpet (V4)

Jan 9, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: Working the sit start of Buckets of Blood Arete.

Working the sit start of Buckets of Blood Arete.

MD : Carderock : Buckets of Blood Arete (5.11)

Jan 9, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: Susanna dancing up Buckets of Blood Arete.

Susanna dancing up Buckets of Blood Arete.

MD : Carderock : Buckets of Blood Arete (5.11)

Jan 9, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Hickstein pulling hard on Buckets of Blood Are...

Dan Hickstein pulling hard on Buckets of Blood Arete

MD : Carderock : Buckets of Blood Arete (5.11)

Jan 9, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: Buckets of Blood Arete is the right leaning arete ...

Buckets of Blood Arete is the right leaning arete in the middle on this photo.

MD : Carderock : Buckets of Blood Arete (5.11)

Jan 9, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Wire (5.12c)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Jul 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I hang-dogged this route last weekend: it's super fun! Not much dirt or loose rock, so I assume it's cleaned up a lot since the description was written here. The crux at the roof seemed pretty hard, but it's easy to pull on draws and get through it. The bolts are close enough together so that even if you're not a 12c climber it's still a fun route to throw yourself at. Get on it!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Northeast Ridge (5.6)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route was lots of fun! The last pitch is awesomely exposed!

The rappel info from J-K seems about right. We completed it with one 70m (and it could be completed with one 60m) like this:

Rap 1: in the alcove very near the summit: 3 fixed pins (2 ancient ring-angles!) and a stopper. Rap 100' to a terraced grassy ledge. Watch your ends!

Walk 50' down the hill on grassy ledges (Class 2), and find a slung block and fixed pin anchor.

Rap 2a: rap 100&@P... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Guenese (5.11a)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Oct 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: On Oct. 17, 2015, as part of a rebolting event coordinated by the Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) and the Action Committee for Eldorado (ACE), Curt Stevens and I updated the anchor under the root (~45-foot height) and the true pitch 1 (~75-foot height) anchor with 0.5x4.75-inch, stainless steel, five-piece bolts. The lead bolts were also replaced with half-inch, stainless steel bolts. We moved the anchor under the roof ~6 inches downward to avoid the the region where the old bolts were placed, ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : The Bait (5.11a)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Sep 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: From the ground, this does not look like much, but it climbs really well! Good stemming that feels like Eldo.

A few nuts and a ~0.5" cam protect the top. I would not climb it without the gear. The climbing at the top is hard and the fall might not be clean without the gear.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Der Letzte Zug (5.12c)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Sep 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a nice TR after climbing Joy Ride. The climbing after the crux is great and maybe 11+. However, the crux (pulling over the roof and the next few moves) seemed absolutely desperate. Did some holds break? The right of the two crimps looked as if there could have been some recent breakage. To me, it seemed like there was no way that it was only 5.12, but maybe I'm just baffled by another weird Boulder Canyon crux. Anyway, it's a fun TR if you skip those crux moves. Several of the bolts were... more >>


Location: MD : Carderock : Tea and Scrumpet (V4)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Dec 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Some of the comments and the following description of this problem on Summitpost indicate that people are traversing a little too high, so let me provide the following clarification: The easiest way to do the traverse around the impossible face is with your feet about 3 feet off the ground – this is about V2 (and a little bit scary) and I believe that it is called the "Impossible Traverse". "Tea and Scrumpet" is the low variant, where you are not allowed to use any holds above the small 1-inch ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Unknown (5.11-)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Nov 27, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Is this route really only 115 feet? This is what the guidebook says, but we were up there with only a single 70m rope today, and it looked at least 150', so we did not try it. Looks cool though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love (5.10b)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Nov 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Curtis Stevens and I replaced the 8 lead bolts on this climb with new 1/2" stainless steel 5-piece bolts. The first two bolts (in the chossy rock) were replaced with 4.75" bolts and the other lead bolts are 2.75".

All the work was permitted by Boulder OSMP.

Bolts and equipment were supplied by the BCC and the ASCA. Please support their bolt replacement efforts:
boulderclimbingcommunity.net
www.safeclimbing.org/

Additionally, I think that this is a very nice climb. It has several differ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Velvet Elvis (5.11a)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Nov 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: On Nov. 2, 2014, Curtis Stevens and I replaced all of the bolts on Velvet Elvis (except for the top anchor, which had already been replaced). The sketchy 1980s lead bolts have been removed and replaced with 1/2 x 2.75" stainless steel 5-piece bolts. We equipped the first pitch anchor with two 1/2 x 4.75" super-duper bomber bolts, so you can have added confidence while rappelling into the void. We replaced the tat-slings on top of the second pitch with two stainless steel rap rings.

We also repl... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : The Raven (5.11 PG13)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Oct 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route looks lichen-covered and slimy from the ground, but it's actually really fun! Leading it would probably be very scary, but this route makes a great toprope after climbing Velvet Elvis. From the Velvet Elvis anchor, climb about 100 feet of 5.0 north along the ridgeline (fun!), and get to the two bolt anchor on top of the Raven. Then you can rappel to the ground and TR the route. Epic stemming!


Location: MD : Carderock : Tea and Scrumpet (V4)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Oct 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Kennedy, are you saying that you ended up pretty much in the position in the photo? The next move it the coolest! You need to kick your right leg all the way across the gap and onto the back wall. It's super dynamic and I need to be wearing really stretchy pants to pull it off. After you climb T&S, you can just keep traversing along the wall, past beginners crack, trying to stay as low as possible. After you pass the tree 30' right of beginners crack, there is another ~V4 upward traverse problem... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Apr 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: That offwidth pitch is tough! I brought a number 5 C4, and I wish that I had brought two. I placed one at the low crux, and then I had to climb back down and get it so that I could use it again to place it for the upper crux. The upper crux is definitely easier, but it's fairly run out above a good #3 Camalot that I placed way back in the crack. There is a fixed knifeblade to protect the lower crux and a yellow Alien in an expanding flake that kinda protects the upper crux, but I was happy... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Major Bolt Achievement (MBA... (5.11a)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Jan 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: What a great climb! A whole bunch of technical face moves and then a juggy roof make this one entertaining from bottom to top. I felt that the face moves were fairly hard to figure out on the first try and were maybe harder than the roof. The footholds are getting really polished, so maybe the climb is getting a little harder with time.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : Interstellar Overdrive (5.11b)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Jan 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Incredible contorted moves through the flare! Highly recommended if you like awkward climbing.

I grunted as hard as I could on this one and just barely scraped by on the onsight. Seemed more like 11+ unless I was missing a hold or something. Great route, but be ready for a thrash-battle.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : The Shaft (5.12b)
By: Dan Hickstein When: Nov 8, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent route! Thanks for putting it up!


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