Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Project Focus (5.10b)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the hardware update, Bill!
|
Location: CO : San Luis Valley : The Pharcyde : Photo
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Mar 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is there anything that climbs up the overhanging arête behind her?
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Alligator Lounge : Scalamander (5.11-)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Feb 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to a previous poster who pointed out that there is a loose block near the crux section of this route. It sits up and to the right of the good, right-hand crimp you use to execute the crux move. I don't recall my hands or feet brushing up against the brick-sized block, but I am a bit on the short side. I will try to get out and clean it off as soon as I am back on my feet again.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Alligator Lounge : Wild Thing (5.11)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Jan 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is deceptively steep, much steeper than it looks from the ground. If your stamina is up for it, don't miss out on this crazy swath of patina. The suggestion for supplemental gear up and to the left of the anchors is spot on for anyone who may want to TR this route.
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Unusual Weather (5.11b/c)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Dec 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: With Heavy Weather, Staying Power, and Thunder Tactics all in a row, this section of the Bank is 11c heaven! I find it really hard to beat the Bank for density of quality routes in the 11 and 12 range.
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Sty in the Sky (5.9)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Dec 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For a new route at Shelf, this route was cleaned very nicely.
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Gambino (5.9+)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Dec 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If anyone has the time or hardware (including myself), it would be nice to add either another set of quicklinks or, even better, a set of chains with an odd number of links. Although the current set of quicklinks is better than nothing, single quicklinks on anchors will twist the heck out of your rope.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Spam (5.9)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Nov 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Recently tried to do the second pitch of this route....my partner climbed up through the nice corner, into the blocky section, and past a short offwidth/slot. He continued on for another 10 feet (for a total of around 70) and was left with a view of 30 more feet of offwidth but no visible anchors in sight. Lacking in gear and any indication that higher anchors existed, he ended down-climbing until he reached a single piece of old tat, slung around one of the blocks wedged in the corner. Altho... more >>
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Supermax (5.11d)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Nov 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fantastic addition to Shelf (and cleaning up quite nicely)! Observe how far the rope hangs out from the wall after being lowered and you will realize why it feels so pumpy.
|
Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : The Backbone (5.13a) : Photo
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Jul 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unbelievable!
|
Location: General Climbing : Take Bear sez.... : Photo
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Jul 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I must be sleep deprived 'cause I can not stop laughing at this picture.
|
Location: International : Europe : Greece : Meteora : Geierwand : ... : Photo
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: May 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks! My favorite part of this picture is the fact that my wife is 5 months pregnant and still cranking!
|
Location: ID : City of Rocks : Photo
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Mar 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is a stunning photo!
|
Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : North Face (5.5)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Jan 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun route and good intro to Dolomite climbing...good training to spot camouflaged, ring bolts every 40 ft :) This route switchbacks all over the North face. Even with double ropes and judicious use of gear/long runners, we broke it up into ~4 pitches to avoid drag. The Dolomiten classics guide by Mauro Bernardi breaks this up into 6 short pitches.
|
Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : North Face (5.6)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Jan 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Dolomiten: Die schoensten routen" by Mauro Bernardi breaks up the route into 5 pitches. I believe we did it in 3 with double ropes and additonal long runners to alleviate rope drag.
|
Location: International : Europe : Greece : Meteora : Sourloti
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Jan 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: An amazing formation with more vertical climbing and larger cobbles than other classics in the area.... a much-appreciated characteristic for comfy belay stances and a reprieve to tip-toeing up a sea of pebbles.
Approach: While driving from Kalambaka to Kastraki, be on the look out for a road on the right, just past the Amabaria formation. Follow this road as it winds underneath Pixari and switchbacks through the EAST side of Kastraki. Park below a small church and follow the steps leading ... more >>
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Arrowplane (5.11a)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Oct 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a classic line, but do not underestimate the first pitch. Be ready to run it out 40 feet on 5.8 slab. Early in the season, we had to traverse a hanging snow patch to get to the base. Although the route was completely dry, our shoes were slightly wet and the first pitch was a bit terrifying. A fall from the runout portion is not an option.
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Enterprise (5.9+)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Oct 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor bolts themselves are in good condition. The very worn coldshuts were replaced with a hanger and chains on 10-1-11.
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Jul 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The relatively short approach is both a blessing and a curse. On a bluebird, summer day, on the weekend expect Eldo-like crowds (or worse...Gunks-like crowds) leaving the parking lot shortly before sunrise. Either be at the base at sunrise, risk storms arriving later in the day, have a backup climb planned or expect to wait in line for the popular climbs. Be aware that many of the alternative routes on the second buttress either start in the same place, end in the same place or cross each oth... more >>
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Love Route (5.9)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Jul 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The pitches leading up to the top of the triangular buttress are pure crap...recommend an alternate start to avoid the gully altogether. HOWEVER, the last pitch, past the 4 fixed pins, and the LONG pitch leading up to it are absolutely fantastic!
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Fantasia (5.9)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably one of the best fatties I have done at Vedauwoo! Just enough thin crimps in the crack and edging feet on the outside to make it a solid 5.9. A small piece protects the very beginning, after which you can throw in a #6 C4 to protect the initial thrash. I wish I had another #6 about halfway up...besides that, a #5, a bunch of #4's and even a #3 C4 came in handy.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : Ring That Bell (5.13b R) : Photo
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: Jun 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome positioning and shot!
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : The G Route (5.12)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: May 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Many thanks to the Thunder Ridge crew for the time and work put into these canyons. This place is the epitomy of fun climbing.... I haven't been able to stop thinking about the G Route since I first hopped on it!
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Alligator Lounge : Good and Plenty (5.8 PG13)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: May 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun dihedral climbing when the beehive is dormant. For a harder bonus, step right at the top and surmount the steep headwall of Optical Illusion.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Alligator Lounge : Evil Genius (5.10+)
By: Dan G0D5H411 When: May 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route marred only by a short section of cruddy rock at the very start. The opening moves on the second pitch are exhilirating! At the very top, we ended up traversing 15' right with a couple of directionals up high, to the anchors on Wild Thing. The rope drag doing this was horrendous.
|
RSS Feed
