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Member Since: Jan 31, 2006
Last Visit: Sep 26, 2013
Contact Dan Brockway


Point Rank: # 8,584
Total Points: 30
Last Year: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 44 | Routes | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 20 | Posts 22 | Stars | Ratings
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Relaxing before a river trip down the Colorado

Relaxing before a river trip down the Colorado

Dan Brockway : Dan Brockway Photos

Feb 16, 2008

Photo of Dan

Photo of Dan

Dan Brockway : Dan Brockway Photos

Dec 1, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: Dan Brockway When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: Did the 12 pitch rap route with a single 60 M rope. Some of the stations were essentially hanging belays but the rope easily reached each station. There is a big loose block about 20 feet above about the fourth rap station. It is easy to avoid but you can put your feet on it. I have done the walk off and that is a hassle to but I think it is a toss up of what is easier. I do agree skip the last pitch and walk over to the rap station left of the belay. Then rap to bolts on the arete. Then ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8)
By: Dan Brockway When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: Just did this route and had a great time. The loose block is still about 10 feet after the roof. It does have a chalk X on it but it is big enoug to really be dangerous. (By the way if you put a #1 Black Diamond just above the roof you can keep your rope from jamming in the crack in the roof)


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: Dan Brockway When: Oct 9, 2011

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Comments: Wow, is that Thank God Ledge? In any case great photo.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Forrest Finish (5.10)
By: Dan Brockway When: Apr 21, 2011

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Comments: I have done the top two pitches once when we felt fresh enough and time allowed. Very recommended. Walking off on Table Ledge always felt like I was bailing on the complete face.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires : Lower Cathedral Spire : South by Southwest (5.11a)
By: Dan Brockway When: Jul 2, 2009

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Comments: We wrapped with one rope but I think it is better to have two allowing you to skip the hanging rappel station. This station appears to be bomber and safe (good newish looking bolts) but I just found it scary watching the ends of my rope flapping in the breeze (below the rap station) especially since there is pretty good exposure there.

Great views from the summit. Makes you realize you are in Yosemite.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-)
By: Dan Brockway When: May 16, 2009

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Comments: Death flake below the Narrows? We did this on May 14, 2009 and we did not notice a dangerous flake there. Could it have fallen out?
I found the offwidth pitches especially the Narrows very hard but probably typical for Yosemite 5.10 offwidth. (ie darn hard)


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : The Godfather (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Dan Brockway When: Aug 24, 2008

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Comments: I thought the climb was great! The south-facing exposure gives Arrowhead a longer season than some of the other popular areas in the park. On the last pitch I thought the gear was adequate but small and a little hard to place. Both of the last two pitches are great but full value at 11a and 11b. (Maybe it was just the altitude.) In general, I thought the whole route had sort of an old school feel to it with adequate gear but a few spicy sections to keep you on your toes.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.11+)
By: Dan Brockway When: Jul 31, 2008

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Comments: Malcolm, Those chains have been there for well over 20 years and allow a lot of people to be able to do a great 5.10a. A lot of people do not lead 5.11 trad. Why should 5.10 climbers be deprived of a one of the best 5.10 pitches in the area, especially since it has been there so long. I don't view it as a convenience anchor. Leading pitch one and two together would be interesting. With the weight of the rope there would be significant rope drag. I lead the second pitch in 1986 with a belay... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Tese (5.10)
By: Dan Brockway When: Jun 26, 2008

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Comments: I did the extension today and thought it made the climb much more classic and enjoyable. Thanks for the work guys.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Talking Out Of Turn (5.10)
By: Dan Brockway When: Mar 20, 2008

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Comments: Good route Bob. A really nice addition to the canyon in the 5.10 range.
We did the whole route (12 bolts) with a 60 meter rope but belayed about 10 feet below the first bolt. A 60 meter rope easily makes it from there but as always be careful. Tie a knot in the end of your rope if there is any doubt in your mind.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon
By: Dan Brockway When: Feb 16, 2008

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Comments: Killer Cave is definitely climbable in the rain. The routes are hard though. Check the guidebook.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1 : Like Water for Bob (5.10c)
By: Dan Brockway When: Feb 16, 2008

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Comments: The Rolofson guidebook calls this PG-13 between the second and third bolt. After a move just above the bolt, you get good holds to clip the third bolt. You can even get a red Black Diamond C3 in a crack a couple feet above the bolt if you want it. Good route that is worth doing so be careful, but don't let the PG-13 rating keep you from doing the route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: Dan Brockway When: Nov 10, 2007

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Comments: Yes, please leave the dogs at home.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: Dan Brockway When: Sep 3, 2007

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Comments: Wow, have been to Tonnere Tower and climbed most of the routes there and am surprised about the controversy above. Are there signs of impacts from the climbing? Yes, but the area (especially the base) looks to me pretty much like any other area.

Is it overcleaned and excavated? Gosh, maybe, I did see signs of cleaning. But for all you that must have adventure, be assured there is still loose rock up there. We easily pulled a bowling-ball-sized, loose rock off (and were able to stuff it in... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Miner's Delight (5.11b)
By: Dan Brockway When: Jul 8, 2007

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Comments: Wow, what a great route. A very nice exposed "jughaul" and indeed pumpy. We walked off and that seemed safe and easier than rapping.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon
By: Dan Brockway When: Oct 17, 2006

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Comments: Sinks now has a lot of 5.10s and even some great 8's and 9's so there is something for everybody. Climbed there last July 4th after the routes went in the shade (about 3:00 PM that time of year) and my son and I were the only people on the crag. In the shade the temperature was fine. Can't explain the lack of people but it was really a terrific day! Also don't miss the Gannett Grill.


Location: CO : Search Continues for missin...
By: Dan Brockway When: Sep 3, 2006

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Comments: The water is very low. I was out there yesterday and saw a guy walking up and down the creek presumably looking for any sign of a body. So, it appears they have thought of that.


Location: CO : Bush Administration Land Sa...
By: Dan Brockway When: Mar 7, 2006

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Comments: Thanks to Bruce and Mark for the information, I was not aware of the legal details and am glad to hear it. Still we have a threat on our hands and it is good that people are starting to realize it.


Location: CO : Bush Administration Land Sa...
By: Dan Brockway When: Mar 6, 2006

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Comments: Mark, I heartily agree with the "leave not trace ethic." That will help and is an excellent point. However, I still believe that the liability issue is huge and will lead to closure if territorialism, privacy issues, or exclusivity doesn't.

Tragically, a lot of people have died in Boulder Canyon in climbing accidents. I can just see an attorney explaining to an owner "well how can you be sure that you have adequately warned the people on your land of the risk". The landowner has everything... more >>


Location: CO : Bush Administration Land Sa...
By: Dan Brockway When: Mar 5, 2006

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Comments: There most certainly will be demand for the land across Hwy 119 and the Dream Canyon parcels. In looking for a comparable parcel I found a 175 acre property for sale for $1,900,000 in the Nederland area. You don't have to build over the entire area. Just be able to get a house on the the most accessible portion of the property and you have a marketable piece of property. If the land goes for sale I promise you it will be quickly bought and eventually developed. The new home owner will quick... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Rock climbing career General ClimbingDan BrockwayMar 27, 2013
re: yosemite dirtbag campingNorthern CaliforniaDan BrockwayAug 28, 2012
re: Red Rock: Oct 17 - Nov 2Utah PartnersDan BrockwayOct 28, 2011
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