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Rock Climbing Photo: Vanagon

Member Since: Sep 1, 2009
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,486
Total Points: 185
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 2
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has dameeser been climbing?


All 225 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 27 | Page Improvements | Comments 40 | Posts 133 | Stars 19 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Yellow (5.12a PG13)
By: dameeser When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Thank's for updating that anchor, Noah, it looks a lot better than the last time I used it. I would still be worried about belaying off that first pitch anchor though. The nut is in a block that looks nasty, and the pin is well...old. If you still have the juice, you can climb though the next roof and belay at the next stance out right. It has much better gear for an anchor.

You can get an RP at the pitch 3 second roof crux, above the current pin. It's a ... more >>

Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : White Buffalo (5.12d)
By: dameeser When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: We climbed the first 3 pitches of Canus into White Buffalo. That seemed like the way to do it - every pitch was mouthwatering! Who does not want to climb a mega corner into a short OW into 300+ft of fingers and hands?! Seriously, this route was great. If you cant climb the traverse pitch it's well worth it to pull on the bolts to access the crack above.

The direct finish can go free at what felt like 5.11 climbing. It looks intimidating, which is why I chose to take the... more >>

Location: CO : Empire : The Halidome : Chute 'em Up (5.12a)
By: dameeser When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: I got on this route not knowing I needed gear. I'm not sure if having gear would make me feel any better. That flake might expand. I vote for a bolt. Fun route.

Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Bishop Crack (5.12b) : Photo
By: dameeser When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: Dave, if your intent was to remove the anchor, you should have removed the entire thing. Leaving a SS stud and a crap bolt does not seem any better, and I can't imagine the landowner thinking any different. It is also pretty easy for someone to put the hanger back. It's a little unclear from your comment on why you did this, but I am in favor of not having an anchor here. I would just prefer the entire anchor to be completely removed.

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Dark Star (5.10+)
By: dameeser When: May 27, 2016

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Comments: We got off route for pitch 3 and 4, but we were still able to make it to the corner. We went off to the right a bit after pitch 2, into a long hand crack and then traversed into the corner. It was a fun adventure but a little rusty.

We just soloed pitch 10. It's exposed but easy.

Pitch 11 and 12 can be linked, as stated, but there was a lot of drag. I would link it if you were concerned about daylight.

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Public Enemy (5.13c)
By: dameeser When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: Hanger and draw are back. I don't think this bolt is stripped. I believe it's a Fixe bolt, so a 3/8-16 nut will not work, you need a metric-sized nut.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: dameeser When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: The piton is back.

Location: CO : Action Committee for Eldora...
By: dameeser When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: If you click on the desired application name (above "view votes"), a PDF will open up. There is a lot of information in those PDFs, but you are encouraged to climb the route yourself.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Lion (5.12b X)
By: dameeser When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: I climbed up and left a little and placed two microcams before getting onto the face. Perhaps I should have watched Matt's video or read Steve's description. I didn't use the sling or find the #2 placement Regardless of how you "protect" yourself, it is unadvised to fall. Stellar route!

Location: CO : Eldo Roof Route Re-Bolting ...
By: dameeser When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: The idea is to replace the bolts before they become unsafe. 1/2" SS will last much longer then the plated steel that makes up most of these bolts. I'm glad that there is a team willing to replace these bolts rather than wait until they become unsafe.

Edit: the idea of "why fix it if it is not broken" does not apply when you are dealing with safety and human life.

Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : South Face
By: dameeser When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: Most of the bolts and anchors have been updated.

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: dameeser When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: I thought the finger pitch was 12b, but it depends on the size of your fingers. My fingers are average I guess, 0.4 is a good lock for me.

The traverse pitch into the finger crack felt to be around 12c. Clip the first two bolts, and then downclimb a little before you traverse. Skip the last bolt. Once you get to the anchor, clip the last bolt for your second.

Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Walk On Water (5.13b)
By: dameeser When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: Amazing. You will be fine if you are under 6 feet.

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Undertow (free) (5.11+)
By: dameeser When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: This is a really fun line. Thanks to everyone that put in the effort to make this a climb, free and aid. We decided to climb the route knowing that the last pitch was wet. You can get a good look at the whole route from the top if you walk down far enough The last belay is under the roof out from under the waterfall, but once you start climbing, it's a full on swim to the summit. It was a mix of free, aid and French free to get up that pitch. In retrospect, I would not climb it wet, holy fuck wa... more >>

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Photo
By: dameeser When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: It was. Perhaps I am cursed.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Physical Graffiti (5.11+)
By: dameeser When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the work. This is a nice line.

Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Don't mess with my Thing (5.12-)
By: dameeser When: Feb 26, 2015

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Comments: We now have bolts...again? This thing has been messed with. 3.5 star slab route! It's a little spicy (sorry?) and better with the draws hung.

Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Outrage Wall : Mothership Connection (5.13b/c)
By: dameeser When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: Harder now that the glued holds have been removed. I don't know how much harder but it felt like a solid 5.13. Regardless, this route is amazing and should not be missed. It's possible to step in a sling to pull through the crux.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Without A Net (5.11+ PG13)
By: dameeser When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: I must have missed all the gear placements between the bolts...or maybe there aren't any. Top notch route with a good amount of spice. I think a 2 or 3 would also work in the horizontal.

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Harry Cary (5.11)
By: dameeser When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Yikes. I cleaned that section a little and I thought I got it all. A storm was rolling in, so I was a little rushed. I'm glad no one was hurt.

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Things Fall Apart (5.13-)
By: dameeser When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: This route should have more stars. I won't rate this climb, since I did not send it, but it's pretty amazing.

Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Poe Buttress : Prequel to the Sequel (5.12c PG13)
By: dameeser When: Jan 9, 2013

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Comments: Hard, mentally and physically. The gear on this route is safe, you just need to know where it is. Slab to hard face to overhanging crack, fantastic!

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Pistol Whipped (5.12-)
By: dameeser When: Oct 26, 2012

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Comments: I would also agree that a #6 would be nice. We took a #4 camalot and although it fit, it could easily be knocked out. Which it did. Also, please be careful at the belay of the 3rd pitch. Those anchors need to be replaced.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : One and a Half Hours of Pow... (5.11- PG13)
By: dameeser When: Feb 10, 2012

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Comments: What's the deal with the stud? Does it need a hanger or should it be removed according to the ACE website?

Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Equinox (5.11)
By: dameeser When: Dec 18, 2011

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Comments: I was able to get in a RP in the roof before the crux that seemed to be pretty good. I also used a ballnut, but there is possibly more opportunity for other RP placements. Great climb!

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