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Rock Climbing Photo: Vanagon


Member Since: Sep 1, 2009
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact dameeser

Point Rank: # 3,362
Total Points: 176
Last Year: 45
Last 30 Days: 0
10 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has dameeser been climbing?










Contributions


All 213 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 27 | Page Improvements | Comments 31 | Posts 132 | Stars 17 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Eldo Roof Route Re-Bolting ...
By: dameeser When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: The idea is to replace the bolts before they become unsafe. 1/2" SS will last much longer then the plated steel that makes up most of these bolts. I'm glad that there is a team willing to replace these bolts rather than wait until they become unsafe.

Edit: the idea of "why fix it if it is not broken" does not apply when you are dealing with safety and human life.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : South Face
By: dameeser When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: Most of the bolts and anchors have been updated.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: dameeser When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: I thought the finger pitch was 12b, but it depends on the size of your fingers. My fingers are average I guess, 0.4 is a good lock for me.

The traverse pitch into the finger crack felt to be around 12c. Clip the first two bolts, and then downclimb a little before you traverse. Skip the last bolt. Once you get to the anchor, clip the last bolt for your second.


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Walk On Water (5.13b)
By: dameeser When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: Amazing. You will be fine if you are under 6 feet.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Undertow (free) (5.11+)
By: dameeser When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: This is a really fun line. Thanks to everyone that put in the effort to make this a climb, free and aid. We decided to climb the route knowing that the last pitch was wet. You can get a good look at the whole route from the top if you walk down far enough The last belay is under the roof out from under the waterfall, but once you start climbing, it's a full on swim to the summit. It was a mix of free, aid and French free to get up that pitch. In retrospect, I would not climb it wet, holy fuck wa... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Photo
By: dameeser When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: It was. Perhaps I am cursed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Physical Graffiti (5.11+)
By: dameeser When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the work. This is a nice line.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Don't mess with my Thing (5.12-)
By: dameeser When: Feb 26, 2015

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Comments: We now have bolts...again? This thing has been messed with. 3.5 star slab route! It's a little spicy (sorry?) and better with the draws hung.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Outrage Wall : Mothership Connection (5.13b/c)
By: dameeser When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: Harder now that the glued holds have been removed. I don't know how much harder but it felt like a solid 5.13. Regardless, this route is amazing and should not be missed. It's possible to step in a sling to pull through the crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Without A Net (5.11+ PG13)
By: dameeser When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: I must have missed all the gear placements between the bolts...or maybe there aren't any. Top notch route with a good amount of spice. I think a 2 or 3 would also work in the horizontal.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Harry Cary (5.11)
By: dameeser When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Yikes. I cleaned that section a little and I thought I got it all. A storm was rolling in, so I was a little rushed. I'm glad no one was hurt.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Things Fall Apart (5.13-)
By: dameeser When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: This route should have more stars. I won't rate this climb, since I did not send it, but it's pretty amazing.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Poe Buttress : Prequel to the Sequel (5.12c PG13)
By: dameeser When: Jan 9, 2013

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Comments: Hard, mentally and physically. The gear on this route is safe, you just need to know where it is. Slab to hard face to overhanging crack, fantastic!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Pistol Whipped (5.12-)
By: dameeser When: Oct 26, 2012

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Comments: I would also agree that a #6 would be nice. We took a #4 camalot and although it fit, it could easily be knocked out. Which it did. Also, please be careful at the belay of the 3rd pitch. Those anchors need to be replaced.

Matt


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : One and a Half Hours of Pow... (5.11- PG13)
By: dameeser When: Feb 10, 2012

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Comments: What's the deal with the stud? Does it need a hanger or should it be removed according to the ACE website?


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Equinox (5.11a)
By: dameeser When: Dec 18, 2011

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Comments: I was able to get in a RP in the roof before the crux that seemed to be pretty good. I also used a ballnut, but there is possibly more opportunity for other RP placements. Great climb!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: dameeser When: Feb 25, 2011

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Comments: LAURA!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: dameeser When: Sep 23, 2010

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Comments: I could not commit to the crux move on p3 so I climbed strait up the belay and clipped the pin.

The pin came out and is no longer there. It did not take much to get the pin to come out. I was able to get gear on the flexing flake above it. Considering that flake was flexing, I doubt anything would have held.

Just so you know....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: dameeser When: Aug 28, 2010

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Comments: Drop test on p2 pin was a success. Fun fall even though my feet did hit the ground a little.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : The Nose (5.8)
By: dameeser When: Jul 27, 2010

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Comments: Make sure to read how long the pitches are. I think you need a 70 or two ropes to get down.

From the top of the last pitch you need a 70 to get to the next rap rings.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : .30-06 (5.12a)
By: dameeser When: Jul 27, 2010

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Comments: Lots and lots and lots and lots of poop. Would it be better to climb this when the birds are gone or after a month straight of rain? Maybe. Lots of poopie. Fun route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Headline (5.10a) : Photo
By: dameeser When: Jul 8, 2010

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Comments: I was thinking the same as Slim. Starting further to the climbers right where the crack starts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: dameeser When: Jul 6, 2010

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Comments: I would be more concerned about the 'biner that is upside down in his alpine draw.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Criminal Mischief (5.12a)
By: dameeser When: Jun 15, 2010

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Comments: Lol, that movie was messed up.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Fortress Wall : Where Lizards Dare (5.9+ A2)
By: dameeser When: Jun 4, 2010

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Comments: Did this pitch a few days ago. There is a HUGE block just after you get over the crack that is loose. We put some x's on it, but its SUPER dangerous.

I told my 2nd about it when she was just about to come up to it, i looked down and when i looked up she was bear hugg'n it, aaaah scary.

SUPER FANTASTIC CLIMB!! not 9+ but it was fun to think it was.


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