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Enjoying a misty day on top of the Bookmark on Lumpy Ridge at age 14 or 15.


Member Since: Jun 29, 2007
Last Visit: Sep 6, 2014
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Point Rank: # 1,725
Total Points: 342
Last Year: 31
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 476 | Routes 16 | Areas 1 | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 102 | Posts 78 | Stars 157 | Ratings 109
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland : Vision Thing (5.13a)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: Honestly, you don't even need pads for the kneebars. I enjoyed the route in a pair of Carhartt‎s.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Das Fruit Machine (5.13a)
By: D-Storm When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: I overlooked this route for a long time because of its scruffy appearance. It's fun! The movement is great, and while sharp and a little unpleasant through the first roof, the quality improves all the way to the top. I particularly enjoyed the last boulder problem, which tests your fitness because there are no good footholds that allow you to shake out for very long while hanging from the jug crack.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Nappy Dugout : Family Unit (5.11d)
By: D-Storm When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: No, James. The direct start was added by Darek Krol a couple years ago and checks in at 12b. I found the sequence to be rather unpleasant and shoulder intensive, but maybe I missed something. The roof is really fun. Tape the base of your left pinky to protect it from a sharp finger lock....


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sapper Cave : The Butterfly Effect (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, the rock quality and movement is solid all the way to the anchors!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : Carnivore (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: Since it doesn't look like the author's description is coming any time soon, I'll chip in. This route is on great stone with fun pocket pulling to get you warmed up through the first four bolts or so, where you reach a small ledge and the real climbing begins. Sustained, steepening rock culminates in a nice pump as you jog up some fun crimps, pinches, and sidepulls (don't dally in any one spot too long). The climbing up to a big jug rest below the looming roof is about 11d/12a. Now for the clima... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Free Hallucinogen Wall (5.13 R)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 14, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the great description, HK. Congrats on your recent weekend of crushing in the Black!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Qualgeist (5.12b R)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 14, 2014

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Comments: Fully agree with your descriptions on the second pitch, Madaleine nice send! The route has bolts, but this rig ain't no sport climb. As for the top pitches, be ready for lots of wandering, heady 5.10+; the 5.11 finger crack at the end is awesome except for two bush cruxes in it. Overall, this route is all about spice. There wasn't a single pitch that seemed straightforward. This is a huge step above Trilogy, which my partner and I hiked in the rain a couple weeks ago. Oh, and once ag... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Trilogy (5.12a R)
By: D-Storm When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: +1 for Chris Kalous' beta on finishing left. That little 5.10 crack to the ledge is really good. The topo Chris posted is also impressively accurate, right down to the bush drawn above the crux on pitch 4. As for my 11d rating, this was the first "5.12" I've done in the Black, so I don't have much to compare this one to, but I expected the grade to feel harder. Time will tell.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Serrator Crack (5.11a/b)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: This was the first desert OW I led, Pat, so you may have a valid point on the 5.10 grade. Perhaps mid-5.10 is more fair? I'd have to revisit the route to say more confidently. Now that I think of it, the short crux on this one is probably no harder than Yosemite's "Generator Crack" (10c).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Jones-in (5.12-)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: I believe this route and Tenderloins were both put up by Steve Hong, and I thought it was interesting that the plaque at the base of this route reads, "11+/12-" and the one under Tenderloins gets a flat "11+" which is the opposite of current consensus (Tenderloins is the harder route). Hong must have had some large fingers.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Oyster Bar Area : Conrad Rock : ... : Heart of Darkness (5.10d)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: It kind of adds another little crux keeping it more solid at 11a if you mantel out at the top. I suspect many people clip the chains while hanging from the flake at the lip. Fair enough, it's technically still a send, but you're missing out on the final crux and punting on J-Tree style if you don't top out. There's something really satisfying when you find yourself suddenly out of the darkness, basking in the glow of a desert sunset.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Did this on my first full day in J-Tree even for people leading much harder than 5.8, this friction route is a great way to get your head in the game for many other routes there. And it's just a beautiful outing. Finish the day with Space Mountain and a tour of the Oyster Bar area.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Space Mountain (5.10b)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: This thing was a wild onsight ride! Very memorable. I felt like the grade was old school no move is harder than 10a, but it seemed pretty sustained at the grade, and it certainly requires more mental savvy than usual for 10a. By modern standards it might be more like 10+/11-, but I realize this is J-Tree. I make this comment more to warn new 5.10 leaders considering this route. Two ropes would make it less stressful.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pen... : Jerry's Quarry : Equinox (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: I can't believe no one has commented on the amazing location. It's incredible to be on a climb like that, elevated high above the desert floor in the middle of nowhere, no else around. There aren't even any other routes on the face. All that definitely adds a special flavor to a route that's already a dream climb.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Sphincter Quits (5.9+ R)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Re: "The move out onto the upper crack is nicely protected with a solid #4 BD micro nut." That was not the case for me, but the wire on my #4 BD micro nut was bent, so that may have affected its ability to seat well. Fortunately, you're on a big ledge at that point so you can take your time. I also recommend bringing a long sling to tie off the chicken head there; I was glad to have it since I ended up running it out after not finding any worthwhile gear at the first pod in... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Knapping With The Alien (5.12-)
By: D-Storm When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: The route is well bolted the bolts are exactly where you need them and where the best clipping stances are but I thought the second clip was kind of dicey. It's sort of mid-crux and you're far enough up and right of the first bolt that you could have a nasty fall onto the ledge if a foot slipped and your core strength gave out. Heads up for anyone unsure about leading the grade.

@ Timothy regarding the grade: V4 equates to 12a in most V-scale conversion tables I have seen. V3 is 11+, V2 is ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : The Slaughter House (5.10+)
By: D-Storm When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: Total classic Creek climbing on this one. Excellent rock from bottom to top. I can see where the 5.10+ grade comes from, but I wouldn't recommend this to a 5.10 leader unless he or she was trying to break into 5.11. There are stances between each section, but the sections are long, pumpy and intimidating.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : Namaste (5.12a)
By: D-Storm When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Jarthur, it seems no one is debating how good it is, just the grade, and the importance of it is this: As a classic route that stands out, it will be climbed by a lot of different people, thereby becoming a benchmark for the grade by default. More and more climbers may very well say, "Namaste is 12a, and this is other route is harder, so ..." and that is how grades continue to inflate. Let's enjoy quality routes, for sure, but also be honest about our opinions on difficulty. I haven't touched th... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : The Gift (5.12d)
By: D-Storm When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: This one is hard for me to grade. 5.12d seems generous and 12c seems sandbag. No move seems too hard when you're fresh but linking it all together is a different story. I've been dispatching 5.13 as well as ever this season and this little route took me more tries than I'd like to admit.

Edit to add: I was recently told this route was originally given 13a. Maybe it's called "The Gift" for a reason! Regardless of the grade, the movement sure has some nice flow on tasty rock.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Philosophy (5.12d)
By: D-Storm When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: It's definitely squeezed in close to Easy Skankin', but the rock is really good. There is an element of creating your own personal challenge reach left for the huge double jug on Skankin' in the middle of the otherwise sustained redpoint crux, or stay true? I enjoyed the tenuous, run-out sequence at the end too much to blight it by going over to the sidelines for a breather, but either way, the climbing is some of the best rock in Rifle.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : The Question Mark (5.11+)
By: D-Storm When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: A unique pitch. If it wasn't for the boulder problem start, it would be 5.10. I felt silly for bothering to tape in anticipation of the wideness.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Black Caesar (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: The movement on this route is awesome. The main drawbacks are that it rarely gets climbed and dirt has settled into the jugs. It's deceptively hard, too. I was trying this as a warm-down project and finally tried it fresh as a warmup, and it was still freakin' hard.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Pump Action (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: A 60-meter rope is exactly enough to lower from the top. This is a good route on quality rock that will likely clean up and get even better with time. The bolts are very close together, and there's no move that's very hard for a 12c* grade, so this might be a good project for someone who wants to break into harder 5.12s in RMP; I could see it being a good primer for Extended Family in the Ruckman Cave, for example. Just be careful not to Z-clip!

  • Jerad, I think I used different beta t...
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Wedding Streak (5.11a/b)
By: D-Storm When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: This is a tricky little line on excellent flowstone (the blue, mineral-glazed limestone sport climbers crave, especially at Rifle). Stay right for full value.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Winter's End (5.11b)
By: D-Storm When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: I climbed this again the other day and felt that this route is indeed 5.11a. I still think 5.11b is too generous if a route is barely more than three bolts long, it has to be pretty hard to be 5.11 and it has to have high quality rock to be worthwhile, which it is. (Edited this comment regarding the star rating, as my opinions continue to evolve.)


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