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Enjoying a misty day on top of the Bookmark on Lumpy Ridge at age 14 or 15.


Member Since: Jun 29, 2007
Last Visit: Apr 7, 2014
Contact D-Storm


Point Rank: # 1,662
Total Points: 335
Last Year: 73
Last 30 Days: 7
2 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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All (426) | Routes (16) | Areas (1) | Photos (13) | Comments (95) | Posts (77) | Stars (136) | Ratings (88)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Serrator Crack (5.11a/b)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: This was the first desert OW I led, Pat, so you may have a valid point on the 5.10 grade. Perhaps mid-5.10 is more fair? I'd have to revisit the route to say more confidently. Now that I think of it, the short crux on this one is probably no harder than Yosemite's "Generator Crack" (10c).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Jones-in (5.12-)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: I believe this route and Tenderloins were both put up by Steve Hong, and I thought it was interesting that the plaque at the base of this route reads, "11+/12-" and the one under Tenderloins gets a flat "11+" which is the opposite of current consensus (Tenderloins is the harder route). Hong must have had some large fingers.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Oyster Bar Area : Conrad Rock : ... : Heart of Darkness (5.10d)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: It kind of adds another little crux keeping it more solid at 11a if you mantel out at the top. I suspect many people clip the chains while hanging from the flake at the lip. Fair enough, it's technically still a send, but you're missing out on the final crux and punting on J-Tree style if you don't top out. There's something really satisfying when you find yourself suddenly out of the darkness, basking in the glow of a desert sunset.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Did this on my first full day in J-Tree even for people leading much harder than 5.8, this friction route is a great way to get your head in the game for many other routes there. And it's just a beautiful outing. Finish the day with Space Mountain and a tour of the Oyster Bar area.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Space Mountain (5.10b)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: This thing was a wild onsight ride! Very memorable. I felt like the grade was old school no move is harder than 10a, but it seemed pretty sustained at the grade, and it certainly requires more mental savvy than usual for 10a. By modern standards it might be more like 10+/11-, but I realize this is J-Tree. I make this comment more to warn new 5.10 leaders considering this route. Two ropes would make it less stressful.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pen... : Jerry's Quarry : Equinox (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: I can't believe no one has commented on the amazing location. It's incredible to be on a climb like that, elevated high above the desert floor in the middle of nowhere, no else around. There aren't even any other routes on the face. All that definitely adds a special flavor to a route that's already a dream climb.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Wes... : Sphincter Quits (5.9+ R)
By: D-Storm When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Re: "The move out onto the upper crack is nicely protected with a solid #4 BD micro nut." That was not the case for me, but the wire on my #4 BD micro nut was bent, so that may have affected its ability to seat well. Fortunately, you're on a big ledge at that point so you can take your time. I also recommend bringing a long sling to tie off the chicken head there; I was glad to have it since I ended up running it out after not finding any worthwhile gear at the first pod in... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Knapping With The Alien (5.12-)
By: D-Storm When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: The route is well bolted the bolts are exactly where you need them and where the best clipping stances are but I thought the second clip was kind of dicey. It's sort of mid-crux and you're far enough up and right of the first bolt that you could have a nasty fall onto the ledge if a foot slipped and your core strength gave out. Heads up for anyone unsure about leading the grade.

@ Timothy regarding the grade: V4 equates to 12a in most V-scale conversion tables I have seen. V3 is 11+, V2 is ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : The Slaughter House (5.10+)
By: D-Storm When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: Total classic Creek climbing on this one. Excellent rock from bottom to top. I can see where the 5.10+ grade comes from, but I wouldn't recommend this to a 5.10 leader unless he or she was trying to break into 5.11. There are stances between each section, but the sections are long, pumpy and intimidating.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : Namaste (5.12a)
By: D-Storm When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Jarthur, it seems no one is debating how good it is, just the grade, and the importance of it is this: As a classic route that stands out, it will be climbed by a lot of different people, thereby becoming a benchmark for the grade by default. More and more climbers may very well say, "Namaste is 12a, and this is other route is harder, so ..." and that is how grades continue to inflate. Let's enjoy quality routes, for sure, but also be honest about our opinions on difficulty. I haven't touched th... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : The Gift (5.12d)
By: D-Storm When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: This one is hard for me to grade. 5.12d seems generous and 12c seems sandbag. No move seems too hard when you're fresh but linking it all together is a different story. I've been dispatching 5.13 as well as ever this season and this little route took me more tries than I'd like to admit.

Edit to add: I was recently told this route was originally given 13a. Maybe it's called "The Gift" for a reason! Regardless of the grade, the movement sure has some nice flow on tasty rock.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Philosophy (5.12d)
By: D-Storm When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: It's definitely squeezed in close to Easy Skankin', but the rock is really good. There is an element of creating your own personal challenge reach left for the huge double jug on Skankin' in the middle of the otherwise sustained redpoint crux, or stay true? I enjoyed the tenuous, run-out sequence at the end too much to blight it by going over to the sidelines for a breather, but either way, the climbing is some of the best rock in Rifle.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : The Question Mark (5.11+)
By: D-Storm When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: A unique pitch. If it wasn't for the boulder problem start, it would be 5.10. I felt silly for bothering to tape in anticipation of the wideness.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Black Caesar (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: The movement on this route is awesome. The main drawbacks are that it rarely gets climbed and dirt has settled into the jugs. It's deceptively hard, too. I was trying this as a warm-down project and finally tried it fresh as a warmup, and it was still freakin' hard.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Pump Action (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: A 60-meter rope is exactly enough to lower from the top. This is a good route on quality rock that will likely clean up and get even better with time. The bolts are very close together, and there's no move that's very hard for a 12c* grade, so this might be a good project for someone who wants to break into harder 5.12s in RMP; I could see it being a good primer for Extended Family in the Ruckman Cave, for example. Just be careful not to Z-clip!

  • Jerad, I think I used different beta t...
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Wedding Streak (5.11a/b)
By: D-Storm When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: This is a tricky little line on excellent flowstone (the blue, mineral-glazed limestone sport climbers crave, especially at Rifle). Stay right for full value.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Winter's End (5.11b)
By: D-Storm When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: I climbed this again the other day and felt that this route is indeed 5.11a. I still think 5.11b is too generous if a route is barely more than three bolts long, it has to be pretty hard to be 5.11 and it has to have high quality rock to be worthwhile, which it is. (Edited this comment regarding the star rating, as my opinions continue to evolve.)


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Campground Rock : Urinary Tract (5.11a)
By: D-Storm When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: This thing is only about 20 feet high, but the climbing is superb all the way. I was driving by to use the outhouse and couldn't resist the opportunity to sink my digits into such rare perfection when I saw this crack. The landing is so clean and flat I felt confident bouldering it without a pad. The crux is at the top, and it's a little hairy pulling onto the slab. It's a good highball testpiece that's relatively safe! If this page would allow me to give it a V-grade, I would call it V2.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Lincoln Creek Cliff : Honest Abe (5.11c/d)
By: D-Storm When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: This compact route has it all tricky mantels, burly liebacks, and steep tip-locks capped with a pumpy traverse and another mantel! I underestimated how hard it would be before I onsighted this yesterday in slightly wet conditions. It felt every bit of 12a then, but obviously my experience isn't the benchmark. Nonetheless, this route will test your repertoire of skills and power. Super fun!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Winter's End (5.11b)
By: D-Storm When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Though very short, the climb is worthy with two very fun sequences on good rock. It is not 5.11, however. While the sequences are tricky, they are separated by a bomber rest. I would call this benchmark 10d and a good primer for breaking into the harder climbs. Also, the cable draws seem silly for such a simple route. Perhaps this was set up to build confidence for new leaders? Mike, aside from the cable draws, thank you for adding some fun climbing to the wall here.


Location: CO : Carbondale : Redstone Boulders : Stein Boulder : Linkenstein (V5+)
By: D-Storm When: Jul 3, 2013

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Comments: I linked the traverse with the dyno a couple weeks ago not as gnarly as I thought it would be! I ended up finding some slightly different beta from what I described above. I now keep my right foot on the big cobble with my right hand on the good left side of the rail and cross my left hand under, doing all kinds of flagging with my left leg, which makes the long reach easier. With the dyno, the entire traverse might still only be V6(+), as far as Redstone grades go.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Lincoln Creek Cliff
By: D-Storm When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Finally found my way over to this cliff. Park at the bridge for Lincoln Creek Road. Walk over the bridge, and walk upstream for a couple hundred yards until an obvious trail branches uphill to the right. The trail forks a couple times after reaching a boulderfield stay right, going uphill. You'll hike under the Sunset Cliff which has a prominent, black streak with a bolted 5.10 called "I'll be Black" and head back downhill (steep!). The trail levels out and takes you to the base of Lincoln... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Lincoln Creek Cliff : Dad's Day Off (5.12a)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: The rock is good and the climb is fun but feels heavily contrived, since it is easy to step over to Haywire at almost any point. I thought the business was the steep, blank corner at the start maybe that's where the 5.12 rating comes from? Definitely no 5.12 points if you don't lead that to start the route.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Lincoln Creek Cliff : Dean's Day Off (5.12a PG13)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: Almost onsighted this the other day. What a mental ride! Can't believe I bungled the move pulling onto the easy slab at the top! The runout getting to the upper crack is no joke, and it's a good 12 feet above a series of placements that are very small or marginal. Barber is da man.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : El Camino Real (5.12c)
By: D-Storm When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: HEADS UP: if you are counting on all the fixed wires being there, they are not. The fourth "fixed" wire before the first bolt fell out as I pulled up slack to clip the bolt. The other wires looked about as OK as fixed mank can look. This thing would be so much harder and scarier without the bolts. I, for one, appreciated them. As for the wires, I might prefer placing my own, so I know what I'm clipping instead of having time bombs occupying the key placements. That said, the first fixed piece th... more >>


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