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Member Since: Jun 24, 2006
Last Visit: Oct 1, 2014
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 174 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 30 | Posts | Stars 71 | Ratings 70
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag
By: D. Shaw When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: Definitely confusing at Mine Hole as of early August (2012) --- lots of new routes not in the relatively new guidebook (2009). Anyone know what the short sport route is just above the mine hole? It is NOT the 5.8 route in the book (listed as a gear route). Maybe 9-?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Prince Charmer (5.9+)
By: D. Shaw When: Jun 30, 2011

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Comments: Worth doing. Two crux moves on it are harder than 5.9, the start/corner is mossy and has lichen, but indeed can be avoided on right. The way I did it, after the crack, join the bolts on the route to the right, but is quite a hard move onto the face. Maybe not if you are very tall.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Flying Buttress (5.10b)
By: D. Shaw When: Jul 23, 2010

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Comments: Compare this pitch to the first pitch of Friday the 13th, which is 10a. This pitch would then, at 10b, be suggested to be only a little bit harder than the other.... Whatever you do though, don't rock the status quo. Good luck, if you can only lead a real 10b.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Peanuts (5.9+)
By: D. Shaw When: Jul 9, 2010

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Comments: Once you know the moves, yes, 5.9. But for the on-sight leader, better to think 10a/9+, because it is hard to see the moves on the traverse. You have to feel your way across. Definitely worth doing, and by the way, the rap to the ground is no problem on a 65 meter rope.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Electra Glide : Catch You Later (5.9+)
By: D. Shaw When: Jun 22, 2010

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Comments: June, 2010: Well worth trying on TR, but considerably harder than 9+, me thinks. I was looking and saw little opportunity for pro above the roof, with the exception of behind the tiny little flake, which as mentioned, moves when you pull on it. If you can get past that, there is a marginal slot above that that would take a piece, then the huge flake above that, which also moves when you put weight on it. I'd recommend just leading Electra-Glide then TR this from the tree, and even on TR this is ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome
By: D. Shaw When: Sep 30, 2009

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Comments: We did this late Sept, 2009. I have done it maybe 10 times, starting 25 years ago, but hadn't done it in 8 years. I on-sighted a 10c sport route a few days ago without difficulty, and I have to say, this route is more interesting and wild than the 10c. Lots of pins are gone now, that used to help protect it, and the ones that are there don't look reliable to me. The polish has increased substantially, making the traverse up to the first belay, and just after, seem harder now. In honor of the old... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Curving Crack (5.9)
By: D. Shaw When: Aug 28, 2009

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Comments: Seemed same difficulty as Dmentia over on Happy Hour to me, so I said 10a, as that is what Dementia is thought to be. Rating might be influenced by doing the right exit at the roof, instead of left, and it continues to be hard there. Chains/bolts for anchor seemed fine. Excellent pitch, and definitely easier than Skunk Crack (less greasy).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Skunk Crack (5.9+)
By: D. Shaw When: Aug 28, 2009

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Comments: Friend Casey said, "nah, I don't want to picnic and climb at C.R. 'cause it is too greasy." I didn't know what he meant until trying this one, and now I do. Wow. Slick, like the guy said. Easier to second, as you can layback the first section with the slick feet, but if you are leading, it is tricky to layback and protect at the same time. For on-sight, 10a, I thought, but did 2nd lap following and maybe 9+ is ok for that. Definitely worth doing. And, there are now chains at the top of this, so ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Muad'Dib (5.10-)
By: D. Shaw When: Aug 6, 2009

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Comments: Two hard parts, the rest easy. First hard part at 2nd bolt, about 10c.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : South Beach (5.10-)
By: D. Shaw When: Aug 6, 2009

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Comments: As for all these sport routes, crumbly rock in need of cleaning. This one is not 10-. 10b at least. Worth doing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Emerald City (5.9)
By: D. Shaw When: Oct 7, 2008

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Comments: Have climbed Eldo for 25 years and never did it 'cause it always took a back seat to Over the Hill (OTH) and/or A.-Book. What a fool am I? LInk it with last pitch of OTH and you have a "classic."


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Splitting Hares (5.10a)
By: D. Shaw When: Oct 7, 2008

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Comments: 10a/b is right on. Excellent pitch, worth doing. I am a chicken, and don't think you really need extra gear, except you might want to stick-clip the first bolt if you don't want the risk of a broken ankle.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Mosquito Burrito (5.8)
By: D. Shaw When: Oct 7, 2008

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Comments: Ratings are subjective, naturally, and depend on the exact line you choose, your height, etc. But a 5.8 leader would not be happy with a 5.8 rating, I suspect. Definitely harder than the "Bowling ball and chain" route, which is supposedly 10a, but nowhere near as hard as "Splitting Hares," also supposedly 10a/b. Very fun pitch, worth doing, no matter what it is rated.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Bowling Ball and Chain (5.10a/b)
By: D. Shaw When: Oct 7, 2008

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Comments: Very strange route indeed. Almost totally contrived to get any particular rating, so you could say 5.8 or 5.10a. Skip it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Oil Pan Hook Shot (5.11a/b)
By: D. Shaw When: Oct 7, 2008

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Comments: Did it a few times and the difficulty depends on how you do it, as is true of many routes. Stay a bit left at the crux and it is perhaps easier, which would also be true for a taller person. Top was wild/fun move.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sooberb (5.10c)
By: D. Shaw When: Oct 7, 2007

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Comments: First, thanks Chris Archer, if you helped with the rappel anchors. We had to scramble down unroped from the last pitch, but then the raps were great from the big ledge - we saw no anchors at the very top. It took us 3 raps on 60m rope. Second, the comments above correspond with my thought: this last pitch is more like 10d. The 10c rating seems based on 2 people's hands/thoughts. My hands are small and this was very hard/strenuous crux. Even with my small hands, you can jam w/ right hand, just to... more >>


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Devil's Slide : Mark of the Beast (5.8+)
By: D. Shaw When: Sep 11, 2007

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Comments: Very nice slab route. If you called the crux move 9-, you'd get no argument from me. Third pitch doesn't seem worth doing.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary : Middle Crack (5.8)
By: D. Shaw When: Sep 11, 2007

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Comments: Coming from Colorado, I have to say in "Clintinesque" speak that Texas climbing is what it is. But this is a very nice pitch and like many routes at E-Rock, stout for the grade. It would be 9-, at least at many Colorado areas. You can jam the first part if you know how, rather than layback it. Watch the top part for a fall as it is run-out, and if anyone knows a good way off of this other than the long walk, post a comment.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry... (5.11b)
By: D. Shaw When: Sep 10, 2007

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Comments: This pitch is just barely worth doing, for the nice top section. The bottom, where the crux is supposed to be, is contrived: one must force oneself to stay exactly in the bolt line for it to be 5.11b. If you move left and keep hunting for edges, it is maybe 10+, at most. But the top section of bolts is sustained and quite pleasant (10a or 10b).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Moonlight Drive (5.10b PG13)
By: D. Shaw When: Sep 10, 2007

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Comments: Read all the comments. Good route indeed, but everyone who says watch out on p. 1 is quite right. Very suspect little holds, and the big flake is going to break if you pull out and hard on it. We all know it is possible to rate things differently, and maybe the folks who say p. 2 is 5.9 went some different way. The way we did it, definitely 10b. Also I said "R" as you do NOT want to fall at the 9+ move just before you clip the 4th/last bolt on the arete - pretty run out at that point (previous b... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Ichiban Arete (5.10b)
By: D. Shaw When: Sep 3, 2007

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Comments: Worth doing if you like the dicey lead. Go up the gulley from the tree, not out to the funky looking bolt to right of the tree. Place gear in the corner, then traverse right to good holds (don't fall!). Work your way to the bottom bolt in the line on the 12a route, then veer off right (crux) to a bolt near the arete. If you then step right onto the arete, it is a long way to the next bolt, but very fun, easy climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Land of Ra (5.11a)
By: D. Shaw When: Sep 3, 2007

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Comments: Fabulous, long pitch. The upper "crack" is not 9+. Ichiban Arete, which we did just before is rated 10b (maybe 10a). The incipient crack above the 10c move is continuous/harder than any move on Ichiban Arete; it is difficult to lead while protecting safely, especially if you put the gear in the few places you might have gotten a finger lock. You want to be solid at placing gear and leading about 10b for this bit, or you need to bail out to the left and up the arete, as some have done (... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : The Unsaid (5.9)
By: D. Shaw When: Aug 7, 2007

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Comments: Tricky, and I agree with Rossiter, classic "Eldo" climbing. There is more than one fun move, so certainly don't skip this pitch. Gear in thin seam is small, before stepping left into pockets. Then stand up in pockets, if you are tall reach right and you can get an excellent nut at bottom of the crack. If you can't reach back to the bottom of the crack to place the gear it is actually going to be a fairly run-out move.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Rasmussen Crack (5.10b)
By: D. Shaw When: Aug 2, 2007

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Comments: I'd love to know if Robbie Baker named this route, as he was one of the original South Platte guys, and I went to high school with him (sort of!) and we knew a gal named Nancy R. Anyway, I would say that all the routes on Turkey Tail are under-rated by modern standards, including this one. The crux of this is harder than any 10b I've ever done. But whatever - you certainly get your money's worth. Word to those who want to rap after pitch 1 - look hard to the left of the corner you join. The rap... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Sidewinder (5.10-)
By: D. Shaw When: Aug 2, 2007

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Comments: It is telling that only 3 people have rated this route, as compared to 20 or more who rate Boulder Canyon climbs. The route is solid 5.10 and calling it 9+ is just a sick joke. I pity the person who tries to go up it who can lead 5.9...But what do I care? Only a few people left in Colorado do wide cracks, so we get 'em when we want 'em, eh?


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