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Sending Lucid Dreaming 5.12d Boulder Canyon, CO


Member Since: Mar 23, 2011
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Curt MacNeill


Point Rank: # 1,867
Total Points: 325
Last Year: 74
Last 30 Days: 5
20 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Curt MacNeill been climbing?










Contributions


All 374 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 30 | Page Improvements | Comments 165 | Posts 1 | Stars 171 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Chum (5.12c/d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Felt worlds harder than all the other 12+'s I have done at the crag. It could be that it was way too hot, it could be that it was covered it dust and dirt, or it could be that the climb is hard for midgets. Everything felt like a reach. Sustained and a good one for sure....


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Flying Fish (5.12c/d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: 3 days ago

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Comments: The last two bolts at the crux need to be tightened. Hangers are loose and spinning. Any small adjustable wrench will do the trick....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Critic's Choice (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: Agreed with the description. This route is a bit painful with some sharpness and classic "tendon" tweaky pockets. Agree with some others that this route is solidly difficult. Not much rest or places to get a quick shake and your on your feet a lot on bad smears. Worth the effort if you have done every other 5.12 at Cactus but shouldn't be your first 12c you go after....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Almost French (5.11d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: 12a all day and consistent with every classic route of the grade I have done at Shelf, which may be all of them at this point.... Give it 10a or 14a if it makes you feel any better. I thought the route was great, movement was cool, and stone was awesome. Get on it and smile!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Weapons Of Mass Arousal (5.12b/c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: Great route! Needs to clean up a little bit with some more people on it, but I would give it classic status. The bottom is a bit chossy, but the rock quality improves with every bolt clipped. From the rest at the ledge, the white stone on the upper head wall is gorgeous, and the moves are cool. I think 12b/c is spot on. I thought the route was much easier than Ejection Seat, Sparkle in the Rain, Surreal Estate, the French Are Here and other area classics. Definitely nowhere near the difficulty o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: KCP, the draws taken down in May were mine. No big deal. I use to do the route a lot and just had them up for ease of climbing and not having to clean. I have actually donated several sets of draws over the years. I have thought about permanently equipping this route with some steel Climb Tech draws to the first 4 bolts which should last a long time, mainly to prevent having to climb the 5.10 to the top and not having to clean the route. Most pull through the crux, and once standing pull some sl... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : The Lorax (5.13b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: This route needs a little love. A bunch of the draws on this thing are mank. Lots of fried and ready to snap dog bones, worn biners, and the anchors need to be replaced. If I start working this route, I will do all of the above. This route is definitely worth a full dose of Climb Tech Steel PermaDraws and some bomber chains up top. Agreed with Cedar, the 12a next to it is the perfect warm up and an added bonus. Get er done! Be cautious in its current state....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Elephant In The Room (5.13+)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: Agreed. Very sustained and bouldery. A bit chossy compared to its popular neighbor, but it should clean up nicely with more people climbing on it. It's very strenuous hanging the draws on this one. I recommend climbing either Vaso or Hypertension to get the draws up. You will want some extended too for easier clipping. Get 'er done!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Die Reeperbahn (5.13b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: Doesn't seem like anyone has been on this thing in quite a few years. I tried it today, and it's pretty licheny and needs to be brushed. Interesting moves until the last 2 bolts, then game on with some "barely there" climbing. Worth doing I guess if you have ticked all the other classics around it. Definitely an old school style of route though. If you have credit card crimp strength and are a "slab meister", then it might make you smile....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Respite (5.11d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Agreed. Trickier than anything on Jolt Cola. Crux section doesn't have many feet options which makes you on your arms more. Overall, worth doing if you're in this section. The stone is really good just like on Jolt Cola....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: I did this route years ago, and I did it again recently. It was, is, and always will be super classic. It may be the best route in the canyon at any grade. It's very sustained, super pumpy and has back to back cruxes on bullet hard stone. I agree, there are sneaky rests all over it. Don't be cheating and hanging a 4 foot runner from the top of the egg, taking that fun and airy whip is what makes the route! My first redpoint years ago I skipped that last bolt at the top of the crux and ran it out... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : The New Pollution (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: This route packs quite a punch for 3 bolts. Clipping the chains is hard, and I couldn't really find a sequence at the very end other then pulling on a bunch of choss. Even though draws were replaced a few years back, the dog bones looked fried from baking in the sun. They need to be replaced with either chains or Climb Tech PermaDraws to withstand the intense sun that this route gets. Be careful clipping, the ledge below makes both the second and third bolt very committing....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Surreal Estate (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: Thanks a bunch to whoever took the effort to rebolt this rig. The route is amazing and now with some bomber new hardware is sure to be hyper classic at Shelf....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Fapanese Direct (5.12)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: Cool roof move to good face climbing in a flaring crack. Overall, pretty good!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Pinklebear. I think the FA party envisioned climbing the arete, but there ended up being an easier way up the face to the right of the bolt line. With that said, the crux for me was actually reaching the bolts to clip draws. Hanging the draws for me and sending was completely out of the question, I was nowhere near being able to reach. I actually had to extend a bunch of draws and ended up skipping some on redpoint, because I could barely reach the extendos I had set up. Clearly for... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Pla Pwy (Sick Fish) (5.12b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: Bummer to see this go in. Oceanic Wall is one of the best walls in all of Upper Dream if not all of Boulder Canyon. Sad to see a bunch of new bolts that seem to be a major squeeze job between all the other classic routes. There are also 4 new bolts that popped up recently just to the right of Challenges of Leisure which seem to link into some of the other routes. It doesn't appear that the route was even cleaned, and it looks like its covered in lichen. Please people, I'm not one to bitch, but p... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Psychatomic (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: Great route! Crux start, crux finish, pumpy through the middle with creative rests including multiple kneebars if you want to do them. Comparable in difficulty to Anarchitect, instead of powerful moves between slopers, it is techy and thin with lots of crimps. Do it and smile. Eagles soaring overhead make this route even sweeter. Unless they poop on your head of course....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Soap on a Rope (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Classic. Hard to believe that this line just went in recently. When lowering from the anchors of the 5.10 next to it, there had always been an obvious line here for viewing as you lower. Bullet hard stone, cool little crimps and grips with a fun crux sequence. Really great route and thanks for the new addition to an already fantastic crag!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Your Mother (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: Wow, this route is really fun. I had for some reason or another overlooked this route even though I wanted to do it years ago. Great flowly climbing on mostly jugs to a really fun finish and huge whip potential. Sack up and take the whip, it's really exciting with stellar position. I'm just plain impressed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Joh... (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: Great route. Fun and interesting face climbing that keeps you on your toes. Yaay!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: Great route and thanks for bolting it, it's a great addition to the sport climbing in the Front Range. Very techy foot smears in the summer are really fun. Give yourself 12d if you can manage to keep your feet on the rock in the intense summer heat, 13a if you can do the route after 3 pm in July when the sun has been baking on it, 13d if you can do it in Reebok Pumps, and 14a if you can do it in Air Jordan's. Michael is the man, LeBron ain't got $hi% on Jordan, and to add to all the people bi$%i... more >>


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Superratic Pillar : Hellion (5.13c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: This route is awesome! Crux is really fun with some powerful and sustained pocket pulling. Hyper classic....


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Drugs and Sex : Adrenochrome Trundle (5.12-)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Great route. Needs a power washing with lots of sand and dirt in the pockets. Great addition to the wall though and should clean up nicely...


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Drugs and Sex : Vitamin K (5.12b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: This route is awesome and often overlooked by cocaine rodeo down yonder. This is a real beauty though with fun and varied climbing. Really fun when the route gets steep. Get er done...


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Triple Tier Area : Old Aid Wall aka Upper Eche... : O.D.K. (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: This route is extremely rad! Cool boulder problem start to pumpy slightly overhanging climbing for 85 feet. It's really good....


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