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Sending Lucid Dreaming 5.12d Boulder Canyon, CO


Member Since: Mar 23, 2011
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,831
Total Points: 336
Last Year: 77
Last 30 Days: 10
20 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Curt MacNeill been climbing?










Contributions


All 386 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 31 | Page Improvements | Comments 171 | Posts 1 | Stars 176 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Squeeze Play (5.13c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: Agreed with some of the other comments. Worlds easier than its neighbor Public Solitude, I'm going with soft 13b. Cool moves with a crux in the middle and a powerful move up top. It's oh soooo sweet! Get 'er done....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Working Man (5.12b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: Nice work, Dave Nordstrom! Classic status for sure and one I always walked past but never got on. If you can't get through the crux between bolt 2 and 3, try going left and then busting a huge move back right, skipping some small and bad holds, and opting for some more power between bigger holds. The route was very flowy with long and asthetic pulls. I like it and so will you....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Super Suka (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: Great route and agreed with the original classic status from some of the earlier guidebooks. My only knock would be that the bolting was a bit contrived. I think the original line was intended to go straight up the bolts, but the obvious least path of resistance is to the right of the bolts. A hard sequence in the middle and a not so easy to read finish keep the route interesting. The stone is beautiful. A good one for sure....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Gym Arete (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: A fantastic route, brilliant pockets and stone. In line with most classic 12a's at Shelf. After watching dozens of people on it this year, there is definitely a crux at about mid-height. I watched many people fall at the exact same spot which is usually a good indicator. Nonetheless, a very worthy route on great stone. Despite the name, I have heard the ongoing joke for years that the route is actually not on an arete. I agree with this. The arete is slightly left and the entire line sits right ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Example (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Power endurance pocket pulling. Some monos, two finger, and three finger holes. Some shallow, some sinker, some that feel like you're going to break your finger off. "Undercling like your life depends on it" is spot on. This route is oh so sweet, although you best prepare your fingers and skin for a raping. I'm also not one to propose grades, because everyone has a different experience on routes, I use them as a general guideline. However, if you're short, the crux is going to feel hella hard, a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 29, 2015

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Comments: Hyper classic UDC route. Get on it and decide for yourself it's easy or hard. More techy than anything, I guess. Me like....


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Chum (5.12c/d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: Felt worlds harder than all the other 12+'s I have done at the crag. It could be that it was way too hot, it could be that it was covered in dust and dirt, or it could be that the climb is hard for the vertically challenged. Everything felt like a reach and I had to resort to some dynamic tactics. Sustained and a good one for sure....


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Flying Fish (5.12c/d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: The last two bolts at the crux need to be tightened. Hangers are loose and spinning. Any small adjustable wrench will do the trick....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Critic's Choice (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: Agreed with the description. This route is a bit painful with some sharpness and classic "tendon" tweaky pockets. Agree with some others that this route is solidly difficult. Not much rest or places to get a quick shake and your on your feet a lot on bad smears. Worth the effort if you have done every other 5.12 at Cactus but shouldn't be your first 12c you go after....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Almost French (5.11d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: 12a all day and consistent with every classic route of the grade I have done at Shelf, which may be all of them at this point.... Give it 10a or 14a if it makes you feel any better. I thought the route was great, movement was cool, and stone was awesome. Get on it and smile!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Weapons Of Mass Arousal (5.12b/c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: Great route! Needs to clean up a little bit with some more people on it, but I would give it classic status. The bottom is a bit chossy, but the rock quality improves with every bolt clipped. From the rest at the ledge, the white stone on the upper head wall is gorgeous, and the moves are cool. I think 12b/c is spot on. I thought the route was much easier than Ejection Seat, Sparkle in the Rain, Surreal Estate, the French Are Here and other area classics. Definitely nowhere near the difficulty o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: KCP, the draws taken down in May were mine. No big deal. I use to do the route a lot and just had them up for ease of climbing and not having to clean. I have actually donated several sets of draws over the years. I have thought about permanently equipping this route with some steel Climb Tech draws to the first 4 bolts which should last a long time, mainly to prevent having to climb the 5.10 to the top and not having to clean the route. Most pull through the crux, and once standing pull some sl... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : The Lorax (5.13b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: This route needs a little love. A bunch of the draws on this thing are mank. Lots of fried and ready to snap dog bones, worn biners, and the anchors need to be replaced. If I start working this route, I will do all of the above. This route is definitely worth a full dose of Climb Tech Steel PermaDraws and some bomber chains up top. Agreed with Cedar, the 12a next to it is the perfect warm up and an added bonus. Get er done! Be cautious in its current state....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Elephant In The Room (5.13+)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: Agreed. Very sustained and bouldery. A bit chossy compared to its popular neighbor, but it should clean up nicely with more people climbing on it. It's very strenuous hanging the draws on this one. I recommend climbing either Vaso or Hypertension to get the draws up. You will want some extended too for easier clipping. Get 'er done!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Die Reeperbahn (5.13b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: Doesn't seem like anyone has been on this thing in quite a few years. I tried it today, and it's pretty licheny and needs to be brushed. Interesting moves until the last 2 bolts, then game on with some "barely there" climbing. Worth doing I guess if you have ticked all the other classics around it. Definitely an old school style of route though. If you have credit card crimp strength and are a "slab meister", then it might make you smile....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Respite (5.11d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Agreed. Trickier than anything on Jolt Cola. Crux section doesn't have many feet options which makes you on your arms more. Overall, worth doing if you're in this section. The stone is really good just like on Jolt Cola....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: I did this route years ago, and I did it again recently. It was, is, and always will be super classic. It may be the best route in the canyon at any grade. It's very sustained, super pumpy and has back to back cruxes on bullet hard stone. I agree, there are sneaky rests all over it. Don't be cheating and hanging a 4 foot runner from the top of the egg, taking that fun and airy whip is what makes the route! My first redpoint years ago I skipped that last bolt at the top of the crux and ran it out... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : The New Pollution (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: This route packs quite a punch for 3 bolts. Clipping the chains is hard, and I couldn't really find a sequence at the very end other then pulling on a bunch of choss. Even though draws were replaced a few years back, the dog bones looked fried from baking in the sun. They need to be replaced with either chains or Climb Tech PermaDraws to withstand the intense sun that this route gets. Be careful clipping, the ledge below makes both the second and third bolt very committing....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Surreal Estate (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: Thanks a bunch to whoever took the effort to rebolt this rig. The route is amazing and now with some bomber new hardware is sure to be hyper classic at Shelf....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Fapanese Direct (5.12)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: Cool roof move to good face climbing in a flaring crack. Overall, pretty good!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Pinklebear. I think the FA party envisioned climbing the arete, but there ended up being an easier way up the face to the right of the bolt line. With that said, the crux for me was actually reaching the bolts to clip draws. Hanging the draws for me and sending was completely out of the question, I was nowhere near being able to reach. I actually had to extend a bunch of draws and ended up skipping some on redpoint, because I could barely reach the extendos I had set up. Clearly for... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Pla Pwy (Sick Fish) (5.12b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: Bummer to see this go in. Oceanic Wall is one of the best walls in all of Upper Dream if not all of Boulder Canyon. Sad to see a bunch of new bolts that seem to be a major squeeze job between all the other classic routes. There are also 4 new bolts that popped up recently just to the right of Challenges of Leisure which seem to link into some of the other routes. It doesn't appear that the route was even cleaned, and it looks like its covered in lichen. Please people, I'm not one to bitch, but p... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Psychatomic (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: Great route! Crux start, crux finish, pumpy through the middle with creative rests including multiple kneebars if you want to do them. Comparable in difficulty to Anarchitect, instead of powerful moves between slopers, it is techy and thin with lots of crimps. Do it and smile. Eagles soaring overhead make this route even sweeter. Unless they poop on your head of course....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Soap on a Rope (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Classic. Hard to believe that this line just went in recently. When lowering from the anchors of the 5.10 next to it, there had always been an obvious line here for viewing as you lower. Bullet hard stone, cool little crimps and grips with a fun crux sequence. Really great route and thanks for the new addition to an already fantastic crag!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Your Mother (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: Wow, this route is really fun. I had for some reason or another overlooked this route even though I wanted to do it years ago. Great flowly climbing on mostly jugs to a really fun finish and huge whip potential. Sack up and take the whip, it's really exciting with stellar position. I'm just plain impressed.


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