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Rock Climbing Photo: Sending Lucid Dreaming 5.12d Boulder Canyon, CO


Member Since: Mar 23, 2011
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Curt MacNeill

Point Rank: # 1,650
Total Points: 428
Last Year: 102
Last 30 Days: 29
22 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Curt MacNeill been climbing?










Contributions


All 502 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 35 | Page Improvements | Comments 223 | Posts 3 | Stars 229 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : World Peace (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: A very good route as I found it to be as good as some 3 star classics. I'm learning that the star rating system at Shelf seems to be very subjective. I just keep running into more and more 2 star routes that are better than the 3 star classics I have already done....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : The Rising (5.12a/b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: Not by any means classic status compared to other routes of this grade. The top is sharp and heinous and may feel desperate even if you're a super crusher. This has your archetypal, cruel joke finish right before the chains on sharp and somewhat painful grips with the occasional greasy, sloper crimp. Overall, a good route and one to tick if you have done every other 5.12a classic first....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Real Deal (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: As the name implies and the classic status, this is a great one. Similar in nature to the other routes at this wall, there is a crux band that runs throughout the bottom for the first 3 bolts of this entire wall. The crux is short lived on the real deal, much like Spontaneous Combustion and The Smoking Pickle, where is slabs out and gets much easier to the top....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Cimmaron Lanes (5.11d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic rock climb.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Comin' In Smooth (5.11d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: Despite some sharp grips and the holds being covered in dust, it's a pretty good one. The crux is solid 11d and maybe one of the tougher ones you will encounter at Shelf at this grade. Needs more traffic but would clean up nicely. Much better climbing than its neighbor, Hot Rod Lincoln, despite the guidebook claiming that to be the best route in this sector.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Hot Rod Lincoln (5.11c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: This route obviously doesn't get done much and is in great need of a bolt upgrade. Dangerously high 3rd clip with clear decking potential. To complicate things further, there are some moves that have to be made to clip the 3rd, rather than being able to clip it comfortably from the ledge. The anchors are total shit and need to be replaced. This route is NOT recommended in its current state....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : I Never Met a Carbo I Didn'... (5.11+)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 30, 2016

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Comments: It's a good rock climb in the 5.12a range. Not quite as good as its neighbor, I Am A Machine....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : I Am A Machine (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: Thanks, Bruno, for the rebolt. How this climb is not four star and classic status is beyond me. Fantastic upper crux in the black bulge is a lot like New Ethics. Rad rock climb!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Living in America (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: Unfortunately, the crux is contrived and can be avoided. Direct line is solid 12+ crimping on some really slippery rock. Overall a great route though....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Future Fossil (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic route. Crimp crux down low than shallow pocket crux up high. Shelf, oh yeah!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : Redneck Hero (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 4, 2015

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Comments: Fun route. Apparently some jugs broke recently making for some cruxy climbing up high. 12b in my book. Be careful resting on jugs that are close to exploding in your face. I came across some wobblers that are sure to come off soon. Three stars for the position although the rock quality keeps it from being a classic....


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : New Horizon (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 4, 2015

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Comments: A contender for best 12d in the state of Colorado. Awesome, do it! Too bad it wasn't 100 feet longer.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Da Fly (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: Here is an update for fall 15' as this route doesn't get done much. The first two bolts are missing hangers. We used the first two on Glue Slippage hanging a long at the second, and it worked fine. Holds have clearly broke at bulge one due to comments from previous suitors. First bulge is now the crux of the entire route and is probably in the V8 arena. Doubling up some draws above the first bulge makes it easier to clip. The clip above the first bulge to protect the crux moves is extremely stre... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Ejection Generation (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Worlds easier than its neighbor, My Generation. Pretty easy to read for an onisght. Recommend doing this last of the trifecta, that way when you get through to the upper part of My Generation you won't mess it up.... Really fun!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Spontaneous Combustion (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Slightly harder than its neighbor, The Pickle. Very good with some sustained slab climbing up high that is just engaging enough....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : New Ethics (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Great route. Black crux bulge up high has an amazing pocket sequence that is really fun. Do it! Classic status for sure.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Cure For The Common Crimp (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 18, 2015

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Comments: Amazing route! Unlike most routes at shelf that have some finger tweaky pulling, this route is pretty easy on the fingers. Fun, flowy climbing leads to a couple of moves of V5/6 off some sidepulls and a throw from a sloper crimp to an open handed sloper. All in all, an awesome route and not one to be missed!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Precious Stone (5.12b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 18, 2015

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Comments: Not nearly as good as its neighbor and a bit wandery. Still worth doing though if you're in the area....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Potato Chipper (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 18, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic line with great stone and movement. Do it!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : My Generation (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: A very good route. First 4 bolts are a burlfest, then really cool climbing all the way to the top. As good, or in my opinion better than its neighbor, but sees very little action these days due to Ejection Seat being right next to it. Skip bolt one, stick cliping bolt two works well and flows nicely. Do it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Thunder Muscle (5.14a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Margo Hayes was up at Seal today and sent Thunder Muscle. I believe that this is the first female FA. Congrats, Margo. Nice to finally see some chicas getting after it on the hard lines up here!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Y2K (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: If a scrunchy and weird one move wonder is your thing, well then that's your thing. It was kinda - sorta fun in a one move, scrunchy, weird way.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Slave to the Rhythm (5.13b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: Thank you, Stefan, for taking care of the loose bolt. I appreciate it and so does the climbing community....


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Lake Point : The Cobra : The Gooey Grasshopper (5.11d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: One of the best 11d's I have done anywhere in the country. Do it!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Lake Point : The Cobra : Dawn Patrol (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: Powerful overhanging climbing. Detached pillar flake thingy that you can cop a rest on takes away from the climbing a bit. Skip it for full value and an increase in difficulty....


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