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Sending Lucid Dreaming 5.12d Boulder Canyon, CO


Member Since: Mar 23, 2011
Last Visit: Apr 12, 2014
Contact Curt MacNeill


Point Rank: # 1,991
Total Points: 269
Last Year: 52
Last 30 Days: 0
13 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Curt MacNeill been climbing?










Contributions


All (314) | Routes | Areas | Photos (26) | Comments (139) | Posts (1) | Stars (145) | Ratings (3)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Thunder Muscle (5.14a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: What a great route! So polar opposite of its neighbor, Choose Life, it's hard to compare. Very bouldery moves with the crux coming quickly after the knee bar rest at bolt 3. Once you're through the crux, the route stays with you all the way to the top, with a great spot to shake out halfway up on the toilet bowl feature. Lots of body tensiony moves on this one with some bad holds. Other than the "heart"-shaped feature at mid-height, I don't think there is a single jug on this beast. Great route.... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Wooly Bully (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: Great route. I had fun on this thing. Hard not to take the easy way up after 5th bolt. Not gonna lie, kind of a hard boulder problem sequence for the grade. Supposedly a "key" hold has broke at the crux. Interested to see what people think it is now....


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Flying Fish (5.12c/d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: I thought this route was fantastic with fun, flowy moves, moderate rests, and a super fun crux at the last bolt. Get 'er done!!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Choose Life (5.13d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: Well said, Matt! With a little over a year and a lot of effort, I finally sent. The experience I had will stick with me forever. I shed blood, sweat, and tears on this route, and clipping chains on this beast was truly one of the proudest accomplishments of my entire life. Thanks for putting in such a proud line, your vision, your words of wisdom, and the unforgettable year long experience you gave me while I worked it. I will never forget it....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Shiny Dog (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: This route should have never been put in. I mean, seriously! This little section of the wall is a complete shit show with the amount of bolts and the amount of lines. There should have been Amazing face, Meteor Roadblock, and Super Bon Bon...and that's it. All of these bolts 6 inches apart from each other seriously takes away from the existing independent lines which actually climb quite nice rock with cool movements. 'Tis a shame. Can't say I agree with this style of bolting at all....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Super Bon Bon (5.12b/c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: So sad this line. It actually has cool powerful movement right off the deck. However the squeeze job of bolts all around it and the manufactured jug just kind of makes it a joke. I mean, every time I climb it I have fun. I guess you just have to laugh sometimes. It seems as though the person who bolted this sector really wanted to practice putting bolts in, 'cause there everywhere. If this was an independent line with no bolts to the right or left, minus the manufactured jug, it may have been an... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Meteor Rhoadblock (5.12a/b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: This route just climbs weird. I recommend doing Super Bon Bon or Amazing Face in this sector. This one to me is questionable if it's worth doing.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Tiger's Woody (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: Hey Kirk. Yeah, I figured you envisioned people climbing "in" the scoop and people ended up climbing more on the arete. At this point, most people are just clipping the last bolt and not even touching the anchors. Regardless, a great route! Thanks for putting it up. Well done....


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Tiger's Woody (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: I was quite impressed with this route. I found myself thinking that this rock reminded be of the bullet hard sandstone of Summersville Lake at the New River Gorge. Cool climbing with some less than there feet and some bad slopers. Give yourself a pat on the back if you send when its hot and the holds are super greasy. I'm curious to know if the one pocket on the route is au natural or not? It seems a bit suspicious and out of place? Hmmm.... I also agree that the anchors should be moved to above... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Patience Face (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 9, 2014

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Comments: Really fun route and a great warmup for the 13s in the area.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Give the Dog a Bone (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 28, 2013

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Comments: Awesome route that is often overlooked. Fun moves down low to really good granite face/slab climbing up top. Not a route where you're gonna get pumped, but I found that you had to be dialed on the moves up high with some precision footwork throughout the crux.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Impeachment Day Parade (5.11d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Great route.. Really fun climbing with 2 fun roof cruxes...good warmup up for the 13s close to this one.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Ewetopia (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Sep 26, 2013

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Comments: Be thoroughly warmed up as the crux start requires you to pull hard. Comparable to its neighbor, Jewel of the Wild, maybe not as much pump though. I thought that it the start was pretty bouldery too compared to some other 12a's at Shelf. The top is a bit chossy but still cool finishing moves. Definitely worth getting on!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : 14 Carats (5.12b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Sep 26, 2013

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Comments: Props to anyone who can onsight this thing. An endless sea of crimping and trying to figure out which holds to use. I agree with the person who posted this thing, I thought it was very solid 12b. Great route though with fun movement.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Family Jewels (5.12a/b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Sep 26, 2013

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Comments: Brilliant crux sequence all the way at the top right before the chains. Hard face climbing doesn't get much better than this....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Sep 11, 2013

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Comments: Benchmark 12+ for the Front Range as well....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Dracula (5.12b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Sep 11, 2013

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Comments: Yes, my girlfriend is 5'1" and did that move completely static. She actually flashed the route fairly easy after watching me. We constantly get on routes where there is a "height" dependent move, and she always figures out a way to do it, usually with just higher feet than most people will use. I did The Juice (12d) last year with a crux I was told couldn't be done unless you're over 6' tall. I'm 5'7" and did the move really easily with some uber high feet. Power to the short people!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall : Aunt Jemimas Bisquick Thund... (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Agreed. One move wonder and worlds easier than Crown Prince. If you are a thug with big biceps it will feel easier than EKV. Since you can go no hands right before launching into the whales belly, its really only 20 feet of climbing. No fitness required. I recommend eating birthday cake and watching lots of television before sending this one. Oh fuck yeah wyoming!!!!!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Slavery Wall : Crown Prince Abdullah (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Onsight Biatches!! Ha, Ha... Great fun and a very overlooked route sandwiched between 2 other classics. Definitely harder than Happiness, I felt it was comparable to EKV in difficulty. Maybe a slightly harder crux(off the ground) but a little more obvious as to what to do. Great route. Money!!!!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : The Last Starfighter (5.12a/b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: How this route does not have an american flag rating is beyond me. This is the best route on the wall...Super fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Honey Badger (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Aug 3, 2013

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Comments: Thanks, Chandler and Ben, for all the hard work that went into putting this route up and keeping it safe for the climbing community. This is a great route! I think a lot of people are going to be pscyhed on this thing. It's not everyday that you get to climb a 40 meter route on sandstone with the Flatirons as the backdrop.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Snake Watching (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Amazing route! It just feels like it goes forever. I have lowered safely from the top anchors with different 70 meter ropes. Have a knot tied on the end, and with minimal shinanigans, you can lower straight to the ground. If you have a stretchy 9.4 or 9.2 cord, you can lower pretty easily from the very top. Thicker 70 meter ropes may require the belayer to scramble up at the base a little higher enough for the climber to reach the slab ramp at the bottom that most people climb up to start the ro... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : ... : Photo
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Awesome pic....


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : Take Me to Your Leader (5.11d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: I managed to flash a bunch of routes here including the Magic Dagger (13a), and I still fell on this one. Tricky, sustained face climbing that's a bit licheny and hard to read due to the absence of chalk. Felt a wee bit run out in spots, too. Overall, a great route that will clean up nicely with some more ascents. May need a date with Mr. Brush. Enjoy!!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : The Gatekeeper (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: I just did this route, and there was some very angry ravens guarding a nest of newborn babies (which happens to sit in the route). Be cautious as the birds were very aggressive and did some gnarly flybys trying to probably peck my eyes out. Made my send pretty exciting though in the midst if being attacked by some big ass birds....


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