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Rock Climbing Photo: Sending Lucid Dreaming 5.12d Boulder Canyon, CO


Member Since: Mar 23, 2011
Last Visit: Sep 15, 2016
Contact Curt MacNeill

Point Rank: # 1,617
Total Points: 470
Last Year: 94
Last 30 Days: 0
23 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Curt MacNeill been climbing?










Contributions


All 558 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 39 | Page Improvements | Comments 235 | Posts 3 | Stars 264 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mondo Beyondo : Slavery Wall : Calm Like A Bomb (5.12c/d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: Overall a great route. Not as easy for an onsight as the description might mention with lack of chalk and traffic on the route. Super fun though. Probably about the same as EKV and Crown Prince on the difficultly scale but not quite as good. 4 stars in an an area surrounded by 5 star classics...


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Whiny Baby Wall : Team Whiny Baby (5.12c/d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: So things appear to be harder on this one now due to something breaking in the start area. This is mentioned in the new Ten Sleep BIBLE. Even though most of the climb is pretty cruiser, the start is the business and getting through the first 4 bolts to jugs felt like a really hard Boulder problem in the 13a range. Harder now then its neighbor Tangerine which gets 12d. Who knows? A really good route nonetheless!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mondo Beyondo : Slavery Wall : The Burden of Immortality (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: Incredible route and one of th best I have done in the canyon. Cruiser slab to overhanging jugs to long lock offs and positive pulls on awesome pockets and crimps. Ultra classic for sure. A touch harder than surrounding 12d's so I'd go 13a.....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Cactus Rose (5.11+)
By: Curt MacNeill When: May 7, 2016

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Comments: Agreed. The top has a harder crux than many 12s I have done at Shelf. Fun one though minus the two sharp holds at the top crux. I'd give it classic status....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Minimum Security (5.11c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: Great route with wicked exposure and some off balance and technical arete climbing. I liked this one.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Solitary Confinement (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: Being able to stem out to the opposing wall just a wee bit right of the crux is the only reason this route doesn't get four stars. Going directly up on the face is better movement and consistent with most 12b's I have done at Shelf, similar to say, "New Ethics". Quality movement on the headwall....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Freeform (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: Pretty good route. I don't know if I would go as far as saying top 10 at Shelf, but it's certainly quality....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Public Enemy (5.13c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: This is a great route with fun movement. Power is the name of the game. Exciting and airy in its current state of missing a hanger and nut at the crux moves. Kimball, slice, and I tried to put it back on but found the stud to be stripped. It's safe to skip in its current state and clip the next, despite some previous comments. I took the whip and you end up well above the slab. Have fun. Get some!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Squeezing My Will to Live (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 26, 2016

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Comments: I left my Grigri 2 (orange) with a gold Petzl Attaché biner at the base of Primo Wall on Wednesday, February 24th, 2016 somewhere between the warmups on the left hand side and Shine. Please message me if you find it....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Grim Aura (5.13d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 26, 2016

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Comments: I left my Grigri 2 (orange) with a gold Petzl Attaché biner at the base of Primo Wall on Wednesday, February 24th, 2016 somewhere between the warmups on the left hand side and Shine. Please message me if you find it....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Shine (5.14a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 26, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic and sustained. Get you bouldering on. The top is not a gimme if your stupid pumped....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : VHS or Beta (5.11d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: Great route with some cool movement. Not quite classic status compared to I am a Machine but a pretty good one for this sector of wall....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : World Peace (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: A very good route as I found it to be as good as some 3 star classics. I'm learning that the star rating system at Shelf seems to be very subjective. I just keep running into more and more 2 star routes that are better than the 3 star classics I have already done....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : The Rising (5.12a/b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: Not by any means classic status compared to other routes of this grade. The top is sharp and heinous and may feel desperate even if you're a super crusher. This has your archetypal, cruel joke finish right before the chains on sharp and somewhat painful grips with the occasional greasy, sloper crimp. Overall, a good route and one to tick if you have done every other 5.12a classic first....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Real Deal (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: As the name implies and the classic status, this is a great one. Similar in nature to the other routes at this wall, there is a crux band that runs throughout the bottom for the first 3 bolts of this entire wall. The crux is short lived on the real deal, much like Spontaneous Combustion and The Smoking Pickle, where is slabs out and gets much easier to the top....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Cimmaron Lanes (5.11d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic rock climb.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Comin' In Smooth (5.11d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: Despite some sharp grips and the holds being covered in dust, it's a pretty good one. The crux is solid 11d and maybe one of the tougher ones you will encounter at Shelf at this grade. Needs more traffic but would clean up nicely. Much better climbing than its neighbor, Hot Rod Lincoln, despite the guidebook claiming that to be the best route in this sector.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Hot Rod Lincoln (5.11c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: This route obviously doesn't get done much and is in great need of a bolt upgrade. Dangerously high 3rd clip with clear decking potential. To complicate things further, there are some moves that have to be made to clip the 3rd, rather than being able to clip it comfortably from the ledge. The anchors are total shit and need to be replaced. This route is NOT recommended in its current state....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : I Never Met a Carbo I Didn'... (5.11+)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 30, 2016

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Comments: It's a good rock climb in the 5.12a range. Not quite as good as its neighbor, I Am A Machine....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : I Am A Machine (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: Thanks, Bruno, for the rebolt. How this climb is not four star and classic status is beyond me. Fantastic upper crux in the black bulge is a lot like New Ethics. Rad rock climb!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Living in America (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: Unfortunately, the crux is contrived and can be avoided. Direct line is solid 12+ crimping on some really slippery rock. Overall a great route though....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Future Fossil (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic route. Crimp crux down low than shallow pocket crux up high. Shelf, oh yeah!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : Redneck Hero (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 4, 2015

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Comments: Fun route. Apparently some jugs broke recently making for some cruxy climbing up high. 12b in my book. Be careful resting on jugs that are close to exploding in your face. I came across some wobblers that are sure to come off soon. Three stars for the position although the rock quality keeps it from being a classic....


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : New Horizon (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 4, 2015

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Comments: A contender for best 12d in the state of Colorado. Awesome, do it! Too bad it wasn't 100 feet longer.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Da Fly (5.13b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: Here is an update for fall 15' as this route doesn't get done much. The first two bolts are missing hangers. We used the first two on Glue Slippage hanging a long at the second, and it worked fine. Holds have clearly broke at bulge one due to comments from previous suitors. First bulge is now the crux of the entire route and is probably in the V8 arena. Doubling up some draws above the first bulge makes it easier to clip. The clip above the first bulge to protect the crux moves is extremely stre... more >>


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