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Sending Lucid Dreaming 5.12d Boulder Canyon, CO


Member Since: Mar 23, 2011
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Curt MacNeill


Point Rank: # 1,831
Total Points: 344
Last Year: 78
Last 30 Days: 8
20 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 403 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 31 | Page Improvements | Comments 179 | Posts 1 | Stars 185 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Prime the Pump (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Agreed with Matt with the suggested 12c rating. If you're short, you have to do kind of a sideways pogo stick move at the crux which can be unpleasant. Great long jug haul though. It can easily be done in a single pitch with some long draws and some unclipping shenanigans....


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Power Bulge (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Great route. One of the best of the grade in the Flatirons sport climbing mecca. If it's hot, the section from last bolt to the top may feel harder....


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : Buff the Wood (5.12b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route with solid stone, great movement and very fun crux moves. Every bit of 5 star....


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Wild Yet Tasty (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: Great juggy overhanging route with cool moves. Can serve as a perfect warmup for table of colors....


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : Swedish Fish (5.12b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: This line could be the coolest route I have done at the Red. Very, very long with a wide diversity of movement and holds. Hard sections, no hands rests, every type of hold you could ever want. Climbs all the way to the top of the wall with amazing views from the upper hueco of the entire chocolate factory. So freaking good!!!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Sanctuary : Prometheus Unbound (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: Could be even better than its more popular neighbor Jesus Wept. This route is soooo good! Get on it and smile!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Sanctuary : Jesus Wept (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: If you could give a route a 6th star at the Red to set it apart and give it some distinction from the other classics, this is the one. There is a reason this is the most viewed route on the Red River Climbing website. It is hyper classic status. Brilliant and powerful opening moves leads to a decent shake, then some easier but fun fluff climbing through the middle to a very cool pocket sequence near the top. From the pocket redpoint crux, slam a jug and finish on hero holds climbing to the top. ... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery : Mosaic (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: Great route. Agreed with the 4 star status in the guidbook. Super good, maybe not quite as good as some of the 5 star classics in other areas of the Gorge. Very juggy and positive holds for the first half give you a little bit of a punp, then the route abrubtly shifts to smaller holds and longer pulls. Overall, a great route and one of the classics of the Gallery for sure.....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Squeeze Play (5.13c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: Agreed with some of the other comments. Worlds easier than its neighbor Public Solitude, I'm going with soft 13b. Cool moves with a crux in the middle and a powerful move up top. It's oh soooo sweet! Get 'er done....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Working Man (5.12b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: Nice work, Dave Nordstrom! Classic status for sure and one I always walked past but never got on. If you can't get through the crux between bolt 2 and 3, try going left and then busting a huge move back right, skipping some small and bad holds, and opting for some more power between bigger holds. The route was very flowy with long and asthetic pulls. I like it and so will you....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Super Suka (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: Great route and agreed with the original classic status from some of the earlier guidebooks. My only knock would be that the bolting was a bit contrived. I think the original line was intended to go straight up the bolts, but the obvious least path of resistance is to the right of the bolts. A hard sequence in the middle and a not so easy to read finish keep the route interesting. The stone is beautiful. A good one for sure....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Gym Arete (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: A fantastic route, brilliant pockets and stone. In line with most classic 12a's at Shelf. After watching dozens of people on it this year, there is definitely a crux at about mid-height. I watched many people fall at the exact same spot which is usually a good indicator. Nonetheless, a very worthy route on great stone. Despite the name, I have heard the ongoing joke for years that the route is actually not on an arete. I agree with this. The arete is slightly left and the entire line sits right ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Example (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Power endurance pocket pulling. Some monos, two finger, and three finger holes. Some shallow, some sinker, some that feel like you're going to break your finger off. "Undercling like your life depends on it" is spot on. This route is oh so sweet, although you best prepare your fingers and skin for a raping. I'm also not one to propose grades, because everyone has a different experience on routes, I use them as a general guideline. However, if you're short, the crux is going to feel hella hard, a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 29, 2015

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Comments: Hyper classic UDC route. Get on it and decide for yourself it's easy or hard. More techy than anything, I guess. Me like....


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Chum (5.12c/d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: Felt worlds harder than all the other 12+'s I have done at the crag. It could be that it was way too hot, it could be that it was covered in dust and dirt, or it could be that the climb is hard for the vertically challenged. Everything felt like a reach and I had to resort to some dynamic tactics. Sustained and a good one for sure....


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Flying Fish (5.12c/d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: The last two bolts at the crux need to be tightened. Hangers are loose and spinning. Any small adjustable wrench will do the trick....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Critic's Choice (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: Agreed with the description. This route is a bit painful with some sharpness and classic "tendon" tweaky pockets. Agree with some others that this route is solidly difficult. Not much rest or places to get a quick shake and your on your feet a lot on bad smears. Worth the effort if you have done every other 5.12 at Cactus but shouldn't be your first 12c you go after....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Almost French (5.11d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: 12a all day and consistent with every classic route of the grade I have done at Shelf, which may be all of them at this point.... Give it 10a or 14a if it makes you feel any better. I thought the route was great, movement was cool, and stone was awesome. Get on it and smile!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Weapons Of Mass Arousal (5.12b/c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: Great route! Needs to clean up a little bit with some more people on it, but I would give it classic status. The bottom is a bit chossy, but the rock quality improves with every bolt clipped. From the rest at the ledge, the white stone on the upper head wall is gorgeous, and the moves are cool. I think 12b/c is spot on. I thought the route was much easier than Ejection Seat, Sparkle in the Rain, Surreal Estate, the French Are Here and other area classics. Definitely nowhere near the difficulty o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: KCP, the draws taken down in May were mine. No big deal. I use to do the route a lot and just had them up for ease of climbing and not having to clean. I have actually donated several sets of draws over the years. I have thought about permanently equipping this route with some steel Climb Tech draws to the first 4 bolts which should last a long time, mainly to prevent having to climb the 5.10 to the top and not having to clean the route. Most pull through the crux, and once standing pull some sl... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : The Lorax (5.13b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: This route needs a little love. A bunch of the draws on this thing are mank. Lots of fried and ready to snap dog bones, worn biners, and the anchors need to be replaced. If I start working this route, I will do all of the above. This route is definitely worth a full dose of Climb Tech Steel PermaDraws and some bomber chains up top. Agreed with Cedar, the 12a next to it is the perfect warm up and an added bonus. Get er done! Be cautious in its current state....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Elephant In The Room (5.13+)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: Agreed. Very sustained and bouldery. A bit chossy compared to its popular neighbor, but it should clean up nicely with more people climbing on it. It's very strenuous hanging the draws on this one. I recommend climbing either Vaso or Hypertension to get the draws up. You will want some extended too for easier clipping. Get 'er done!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Die Reeperbahn (5.13b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: Doesn't seem like anyone has been on this thing in quite a few years. I tried it today, and it's pretty licheny and needs to be brushed. Interesting moves until the last 2 bolts, then game on with some "barely there" climbing. Worth doing I guess if you have ticked all the other classics around it. Definitely an old school style of route though. If you have credit card crimp strength and are a "slab meister", then it might make you smile....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Respite (5.11d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Agreed. Trickier than anything on Jolt Cola. Crux section doesn't have many feet options which makes you on your arms more. Overall, worth doing if you're in this section. The stone is really good just like on Jolt Cola....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: I did this route years ago, and I did it again recently. It was, is, and always will be super classic. It may be the best route in the canyon at any grade. It's very sustained, super pumpy and has back to back cruxes on bullet hard stone. I agree, there are sneaky rests all over it. Don't be cheating and hanging a 4 foot runner from the top of the egg, taking that fun and airy whip is what makes the route! My first redpoint years ago I skipped that last bolt at the top of the crux and ran it out... more >>


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