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Sending Lucid Dreaming 5.12d Boulder Canyon, CO


Member Since: Mar 23, 2011
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Curt MacNeill

Point Rank: # 1,803
Total Points: 361
Last Year: 73
Last 30 Days: 3
21 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Curt MacNeill been climbing?










Contributions


All 423 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 186 | Posts 1 | Stars 194 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Ouroboros (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Overhang delivers again with yet another stellar route that goes all the way to the top. Im guessing its 45 meters long and I used an 80 meter rope which I was able to lower straight to the ground from the very top. As the route cleans up, its just going to get better and better. Easier moves than both its neighbors and pretty good rests all over the place. A bit airy on lead with some climbing that keeps you guessing where to go. Fantastic!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Goin' The Distance (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Agreed with Matt Lloyd on this. A one move wonder for sure, and that move is a BITCH. May require a bit more finger strength than most 12d's to pull the crux. Even though it's only one move, that single move may be the hardest I have ever encountered on a 5.12, so prepare to be humbled....


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Earth Voyage (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Agreed. Incredibly sustained with lots of tricks on this one. It's a delicate climb that requires some finesse. I reckon this entire climb could be done in one mega pitch by using an 80 meter rope, skipping lots of bolts, and having super long runners. Not sure if anyone has ever done it that way. Next level, game on....


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area : Wild Rock : Wild Thing (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Absolutely fantastic route! I have done a very large number of 13a's in Colorado, and this is surely up there with the best of them. Uber thug fest down low on jugs leads to a technical pull onto a face. A good rest awaits after the crux, a back stem where you can go no hands, then some cool 12b climbing to the top. Bottom reminded me of the classic Sonic Youth in Clear Creek Canyon, the top of Psychotomic at the Monastary. Bottom line, drop whatever your doing, drive to Independence Pass, and d... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area : Wild Rock : Problem Child (5.12b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Great to see you on here, Mr. Sparrow. Great route with fun and interesting movement, multiple cruxes separated by great rests and a pretty cool hang and position. Four stars for sure. In the summer, the route goes into the shade about 1:00 o clock which is important. Expect a sunburn and some lack of motivation if you go up in the morning as it can get real hot....


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : I've Got Skills (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Ditto. Solid at the grade. Doesn't appear to see much traffic as there was a bunch of choss I broke off and the route was really dirty. After a bit of cleaning, the route turned into a masterpiece. This route is in dire need of a bolt upgrade. You may find the route a bit old school, both in climbing and bolt spacing, but it's a good one for sure. If you're not very solid at the grade, I would bring a cam for the middle section which is runout but easy climbing....


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Hound Dog Crag : Mufassa (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Great route that sees very little attention. Get after it!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Prime the Pump (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: Agreed with Matt with the suggested 12c rating. If you're short, you have to do kind of a sideways pogo stick move at the crux which can be unpleasant. Great long jug haul though. It can easily be done in a single pitch with some long draws and some unclipping shenanigans....


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Power Bulge (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: Great route. One of the best of the grade in the Flatirons sport climbing mecca. If it's hot, the section from last bolt to the top may feel harder....


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : Buff the Wood (5.12b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route with solid stone, great movement and very fun crux moves. Every bit of 5 star....


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Wild Yet Tasty (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: Great juggy overhanging route with cool moves. Can serve as a perfect warmup for table of colors....


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : Swedish Fish (5.12b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: This line could be the coolest route I have done at the Red. Very, very long with a wide diversity of movement and holds. Hard sections, no hands rests, every type of hold you could ever want. Climbs all the way to the top of the wall with amazing views from the upper hueco of the entire chocolate factory. So freaking good!!!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Sanctuary : Prometheus Unbound (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: Could be even better than its more popular neighbor Jesus Wept. This route is soooo good! Get on it and smile!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Sanctuary : Jesus Wept (5.12d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: If you could give a route a 6th star at the Red to set it apart and give it some distinction from the other classics, this is the one. There is a reason this is the most viewed route on the Red River Climbing website. It is hyper classic status. Brilliant and powerful opening moves leads to a decent shake, then some easier but fun fluff climbing through the middle to a very cool pocket sequence near the top. From the pocket redpoint crux, slam a jug and finish on hero holds climbing to the top. ... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery : Mosaic (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: Great route. Agreed with the 4 star status in the guidbook. Super good, maybe not quite as good as some of the 5 star classics in other areas of the Gorge. Very juggy and positive holds for the first half give you a little bit of a punp, then the route abrubtly shifts to smaller holds and longer pulls. Overall, a great route and one of the classics of the Gallery for sure.....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Squeeze Play (5.13c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: Agreed with some of the other comments. Worlds easier than its neighbor Public Solitude, I'm going with soft 13b. Cool moves with a crux in the middle and a powerful move up top. It's oh soooo sweet! Get 'er done....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Working Man (5.12b)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: Nice work, Dave Nordstrom! Classic status for sure and one I always walked past but never got on. If you can't get through the crux between bolt 2 and 3, try going left and then busting a huge move back right, skipping some small and bad holds, and opting for some more power between bigger holds. The route was very flowy with long and asthetic pulls. I like it and so will you....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Super Suka (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: Great route and agreed with the original classic status from some of the earlier guidebooks. My only knock would be that the bolting was a bit contrived. I think the original line was intended to go straight up the bolts, but the obvious least path of resistance is to the right of the bolts. A hard sequence in the middle and a not so easy to read finish keep the route interesting. The stone is beautiful. A good one for sure....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Gym Arete (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: A fantastic route, brilliant pockets and stone. In line with most classic 12a's at Shelf. After watching dozens of people on it this year, there is definitely a crux at about mid-height. I watched many people fall at the exact same spot which is usually a good indicator. Nonetheless, a very worthy route on great stone. Despite the name, I have heard the ongoing joke for years that the route is actually not on an arete. I agree with this. The arete is slightly left and the entire line sits right ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Example (5.13a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Power endurance pocket pulling. Some monos, two finger, and three finger holes. Some shallow, some sinker, some that feel like you're going to break your finger off. "Undercling like your life depends on it" is spot on. This route is oh so sweet, although you best prepare your fingers and skin for a raping. I'm also not one to propose grades, because everyone has a different experience on routes, I use them as a general guideline. However, if you're short, the crux is going to feel hella hard, a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 29, 2015

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Comments: Hyper classic UDC route. Get on it and decide for yourself it's easy or hard. More techy than anything, I guess. Me like....


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Chum (5.12c/d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: Felt worlds harder than all the other 12+'s I have done at the crag. It could be that it was way too hot, it could be that it was covered in dust and dirt, or it could be that the climb is hard for the vertically challenged. Everything felt like a reach and I had to resort to some dynamic tactics. Sustained and a good one for sure....


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Flying Fish (5.12c/d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: The last two bolts at the crux need to be tightened. Hangers are loose and spinning. Any small adjustable wrench will do the trick....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Critic's Choice (5.12c)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: Agreed with the description. This route is a bit painful with some sharpness and classic "tendon" tweaky pockets. Agree with some others that this route is solidly difficult. Not much rest or places to get a quick shake and your on your feet a lot on bad smears. Worth the effort if you have done every other 5.12 at Cactus but shouldn't be your first 12c you go after....


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Almost French (5.11d)
By: Curt MacNeill When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: 12a all day and consistent with every classic route of the grade I have done at Shelf, which may be all of them at this point.... Give it 10a or 14a if it makes you feel any better. I thought the route was great, movement was cool, and stone was awesome. Get on it and smile!


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