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Member Since: May 5, 2009
Last Visit: Sep 29, 2011
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Point Rank: # 11,336
Total Points: 18
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 19 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 1 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock
By: CTYankee When: Aug 4, 2011

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Comments: Parking fee has increased. I think it is $5 per day now. If you plan to stay a week or visit ofetn, buyt the annual pass. I like to get a two year pass and do it with another party - even more of a discount for the second 2 year pass.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Revelations (5.9)
By: CTYankee When: Aug 4, 2011

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Comments: The first step is interesting for short, inflexible people. The start is intimidating for old leaders, too. Once the first bolt is clipped, it is fun.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Cod Rock : Sunset Slab (5.9)
By: CTYankee When: Sep 27, 2010

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Comments: This is a fun route. The bolts are closely spaced low on the route where it traverses and on the crux. It becomes a bit sportier higher up. I may have made it sprotier by going right up high and found myself traversing left to make the clip (may have been the last bolt). The flake on the arete was just too tempting for surmounting the bulge.

Avoid taking the trail/wash that leads straight up to Cod Roack. You will enjoy the switchbacks much better.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Kiss of the Lepers Buttress : First Kiss (5.7)
By: CTYankee When: May 3, 2010

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Comments: You can also exit from the top of pitch 4. Rappel from the top with a 70 meter rope. Walk towards the Monkey and Misery Ridge on the wide ledge. Ten feet of scramblins gets you off the ledge and onto the hillside. Tack over to the turn on the Misery Ridge Trail (you will intersect with the old trail). This exit has less exposure and gets you fairly close to the top.

The exit off the top of pitch 2 is more ugly and should be avoided.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Pinnacle Rock : Cracked Wall : First Crack (5.5)
By: CTYankee When: Dec 8, 2009

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Comments: A good entry level lead. There are others that are better first leads in the area, but this one feels like a real climb and requires some gear fiddling.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Pinnacle Rock : Cracked Wall : Second Crack (5.7 PG13)
By: CTYankee When: Dec 8, 2009

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Comments: While I don't remember what piece precisely goes in near the crux, there is pro. I am a coward, and I have lead this many times. Like many climbs in CT, you need a variety of tools and some ingenuity to protect.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Pinnacle Rock : Right Wing Wall : Zambezi Hatchet Head (5.8)
By: CTYankee When: Dec 8, 2009

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Comments: Zambesi Hatchett Head is a fabulous climb with varied moves. I have climbed it dozens of times. The opening moves go easily with good footwork. I am very short and have no trouble with reach on this climb. It traditionally has been rated 5.7, and that is a fair grade.

Tip toe up the little ramp, then set a cam under the overhang. You can get two in if you are nervous. Pull the overhang, and climb up the crack. Small tri-cams are bomber in this crack. There is a short run-out face sectio... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : The Book of Solemnity (5.10a)
By: CTYankee When: May 5, 2009

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Comments: The second pitch crux is a lot tougher if you are short.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Retaliation (5.9)
By: CTYankee When: May 5, 2009

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Comments: A fantastic route. For a gear placing machine like myself, it is interesting to get a good look at those placements. The opening 5.6 pitch is not my favortie and takes away a bit. The crux pitch definitely has a special quality.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Nutcracker (5.9+)
By: CTYankee When: May 5, 2009

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Comments: This will test your jamming technique. Tape up if jamming is not your specialty. The rock is very rough. You can easily spot those who have done battle with nutcracker by looking at their hands.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area : Hotter Than Hell (5.9)
By: CTYankee When: May 5, 2009

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Comments: A great link up is to go from Hotter than Hell to Tranquility for one pitch to the last pitch of Inferno. Fabulous and fun.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area
By: CTYankee When: May 5, 2009

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Comments: Of the many guidebooks I have to the area, the SOuth Buttress is the name of choice by far.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 5. Children's Crusade Wall : Children's Crusade (5.11a)
By: CTYankee When: May 5, 2009

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Comments: The mantle on pitch 1 is damn intimidating. If you are inflexible, it is quite entertaining. I reached down and pulled up my foot while praying that I would somehow stay plastered on that one mantling hand. I'd love to do it again sometime - as a second, but my partners aren't into leading that spicy little move.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End : They Died Laughing (5.9)
By: CTYankee When: May 5, 2009

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Comments: And "They died laughing" do to the ridiculous amount of gear that you can easily place in this crack. 5.9 doesn't come any safer!! Amazing to see someone outdid me. This was my first 5.9 lead, and I placed 28 pieces, mostly in the middle section. It is very popular, so be respectful and don't siege it as your first 5.9 lead on a Saturday morning....late in the day or mid-week will win you more friends.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Airation (5.11a)
By: CTYankee When: May 5, 2009

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Comments: It is almost a "give-away" for little fingers.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Vector (5.8+)
By: CTYankee When: May 5, 2009

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Comments: Amazing to think about Fritz leading this in the gear du jour with just a couple of pitons.......


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Owl Perch (5.8)
By: CTYankee When: May 5, 2009

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Comments: A little dicier if you are short!


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Unconquerable Crack (5.10a)
By: CTYankee When: May 5, 2009

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Comments: CT has several 5.9 classics that are outstanding. Unconquerable is sustained and a fun lead if you place often. It rewards finding the right position, not using the biggest holds. I still can't decide if Unconquerable or Reflections of Fall are my absolute favorite at this grade level in CT. 5.9 to 5.9+ is about right. It is not as hard as many 10as out West - provided you read the rock well.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Bulo Point AccessPacific NorthwestCTYankeeSep 29, 2011