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Member Since: Aug 26, 2010
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact CritConrad

Point Rank: # 3,365
Total Points: 192
Last Year: 75
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has CritConrad been climbing?










Contributions


All 491 | Routes 8 | Areas 1 | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 42 | Posts 21 | Stars 360 | Ratings 48
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (2) Llama Wall : Junkshow (5.12b)
By: CritConrad When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: Name is "Junkshow" 5.12b
equipped by Tedd Thompson. not sure if he got the FA


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : North 40 : Samurai (5.12b)
By: CritConrad When: May 1, 2016

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Comments: Really attractive route. I was getting baffled/frustrated at the crux until I found the magic foot. Turns it into something like a V5 followed by funky 11- climbing to the chains


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : Scene of the Crime (5.13b)
By: CritConrad When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: Everybody seems to talk about how heinous the mono move on this route is. I personally thought that move was the easiest of the crux sections. The start is definitely the hardest moves but there is a section up higher moving into and out of a diagonal undercling that spit me off many times from the ground.

Also, the book mentions going out left is bad style and I completely disagree. Even for someone tall it would be a massive move and would definitely make it 13c.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Steins Pillar : West Face Route (5.10d or 5... (5.10d)
By: CritConrad When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: Pitch 1 starts off not super great but the dihedral above is amazing. Sustained, and good stone with tons of gear if you have it. I sewed that thing up! we linked it with pitch 2 and even with lots of runners I was feeling the rope. Pitch three started off amazingly fun and then after the ramp quickly turned to garbage and leaves you at possibly the worst belay I've ever spent time at! pitch 4 starts off with some big exposure, loose flakes, and questionable gear. Once the bolt is clipped th... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Looney Binge (5.12c)
By: CritConrad When: Nov 21, 2015

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Comments: I'd love to chime in about this route. It's something I've looked at for about 4 years and always walked past. It was different than my expectations in a few ways.
1) the crux at the 2nd bolt felt WAY harder than I was expecting. To me they were hands down the hardest moves of the route and I was stumped for longer than I care to admit.

2) This route is way more of a traverse than I realized. The pics are a little deceiving in that it looks like it is a TOTALLY horizontal flake crack in a... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Dr Claw (5.11d)
By: CritConrad When: Nov 21, 2015

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Comments: one more vote for a non-contrived crux. This route was really a lot of fun. I even wished the "tenuous slab" up top gave you a little more run for your money


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Tiananmen Square (5.10c)
By: CritConrad When: Nov 21, 2015

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Comments: I had fun on this route, but I really can't get behind the idea of having almost a 30 foot runout while only being about 30 feet off the ground. Sure, it's easy but I found the gap between bolts 3 and 4 unnecessary.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (c) Shipwreck Wall : Shipwreck Wall - River Face : Time To Power (5.12c)
By: CritConrad When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: This thing is seeing a lot of traffic now with having fixed draws on the upper bit. The difficulties are fairly discontinuous but I think the crux is more like a stout V5 boulder problem and way harder than heinous. The jugs on the upper headwall are so much fun! Also,I was very comfortable skipping the crux bolt (it only increases your fall by about 4 feet) as well as the bolt below the anchors


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (y) The Zoo
By: CritConrad When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: Here is a link to a MUCH better way to get to the zoo. The parking area is seasonally open due to a road closure, but access is normally easy from skull hollow. You can even bring mountain bikes and be there in 10 minutes!

hillmap.com/m/ag1zfmhpbGxtYXAt...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Cry of the Poor (5.11a)
By: CritConrad When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: This route really intimidated me for a long time since you really can't see much gear from below. After finally getting on it, there really is good gear and lots of it! Doubles from a green C3 to .75 camalot with a set of nuts offered me a lot more gear than I needed.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : The Struggle Within (5.11d)
By: CritConrad When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: I'll chime in with a few thoughts on this route after doing it today. I feel like we underestimated how long it was going to take. the pitches are relatively long and the climbing is sustained making every pitch take just a little longer.

I felt that the 4th pitch (11d) was a little sandbagged and could possibly get 12a. a hard roof move then i kept whipping off above there cause hands and feet kept breaking. This one still has a good bit of choss.

We decided to do one more pitch to reac... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully : Freebase (5.12a)
By: CritConrad When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: While belaying a friend on this I found that with having the 1st bolt clipped, it was very hard to give a soft catch. As max was saying, any fall results in a decent sized whipper and the first bolt is weirdly positioned only a few feet above you from where you belay. We found softer catches were possible by stick clipping the second bolt. If you think that is lame, then expect somewhat of a hard catch, or just send the route!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully : Quest to Fire (5.12a)
By: CritConrad When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Great write-up. This thing feels really hard! Definitely felt harder than crack babies or liquid jade, or heinous cling.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : Soul Crusher (5.12b)
By: CritConrad When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: I'd be curious to see what some other people think of the grade of this thing. Its seemed very much a one move wonder and I think my ape index played into it feeling easier.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : Kill My Hate (5.13a)
By: CritConrad When: Oct 5, 2013

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Comments: If this thing was on morning glory it would see just as much, if not more, traffic than Churning!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (5) Southern Tip : Sabotage (5.11c)
By: CritConrad When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Ok, has anyone actually done the start moves to this?! Even with cheater stones it seemed like it would've been stout 5.12 to get to the first bolt.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp (5.8 R)
By: CritConrad When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: For the general safety of those climbing the popular moderate routes below this climb, please save this climb for a very low-traffic weekday morning and not a busy Sunday afternoon!! or make sure you have helmets for your partner as well as everyone climbing on the ground!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Da Kine Corner (5.12b/c)
By: CritConrad When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: an often overlooked route. super aesthetic line with awesomely entertaining moves. packs quite the punch for being so short. Hard to grade for sure, but the crux of this is harder than anything on latest rage. The fall on the runout between the 3rd and 4th bolt is totally clean and fun.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (c) Shipwreck Wall : Shipwreck Wall - East Face : ... : Photo
By: CritConrad When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: Great photo of an awesome route! thanks for the upload.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Catalyst (aka Child Abuse) (5.12b)
By: CritConrad When: Apr 3, 2013

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Comments: this routes doesn't seem to be insanely pumpy. But every time I come down from it, I feel about as exhausted as if I had just wrestled a bear.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (c) Shipwreck Wall : Shipwreck Wall - East Face : Flight of the Patriot Scud ... (5.11b)
By: CritConrad When: Mar 21, 2013

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Comments: This thing isn't bad. It's just so short that it's hard to call it good. fun moves but it really is just a bolted boulder problem. Worth a burn at least once for sure.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Go Dog Go (5.12c)
By: CritConrad When: Feb 23, 2013

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Comments: the technical crux on this thing isn't a slab at all. Pretty sure it's dead vertical if not barely overhung. The upper moves are totally killer and worth suffering through some teeny tiny holds down low. Why aren't there more people lining up on this thing?!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Five Easy Pieces (start) (5.12a)
By: CritConrad When: Feb 16, 2013

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Comments: Bolt #3 on this route, from what i remembered, would be really hard to place cause you're in the middle of the crux. Much easier for the climber clipping a pre-placed draw. Any amount of thuggery can be avoided with some crafty heel hooking and some balance.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Vision (5.12b)
By: CritConrad When: Feb 13, 2013

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Comments: Found a great way to do the crux for me on top rope only to realize that the rope is RIGHT in front of the foot I used when on lead. All the hard moves seen to be when you're moving from the right face to the left. Crux is very well protected but everywhere else is spaced enough to keep you on your toes.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Latest Rage (5.12b)
By: CritConrad When: Feb 13, 2013

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Comments: I've never tried going left. On the right I do remember one pretty big deadpoint to a GREAT hold which was pretty committing cause you're a ways above your bolt.


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