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Member Since: Aug 26, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact CritConrad


Point Rank: # 3,998
Total Points: 107
Last Year: 25
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has CritConrad been climbing?










Contributions


All 339 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 32 | Posts 17 | Stars 248 | Ratings 34
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Soul Crusher

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (1)

Sport

OR : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully

Oct 21, 2013

Erogenous Zone

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (7)

Trad

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Catwalk Cliff

Oct 17, 2012

Sidewinder

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1)

Trad

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Left Side

Oct 4, 2012

Soft Asylum

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (1)

Sport, 40'

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Hidden Wall

Sep 26, 2012

Tangled Roots can Clog yer Pipes

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (1)

Sport, 25'

AR : Shepherd Springs : Main Bluffline

Aug 2, 2012

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Hidden Wall

OR : Smith Rock : Basalt Rimrock

Sep 26, 2012

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Leaving the crack and heading out onto the face

Leaving the crack and heading out onto the face

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Soul Crusher (5.12b)

Oct 21, 2013

Steep and beautiful!

Steep and beautiful!

OR : Smith Rock : ... : The Heathen (5.13a/b)

Oct 19, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully : Freebase (5.12a)
By: CritConrad When: Mar 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: While belaying a friend on this I found that with having the 1st bolt clipped, it was very hard to give a soft catch. As max was saying, any fall results in a decent sized whipper and the first bolt is weirdly positioned only a few feet above you from where you belay. We found softer catches were possible by stick clipping the second bolt. If you think that is lame, then expect somewhat of a hard catch, or just send the route!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully : Quest to Fire (5.12a)
By: CritConrad When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Great write-up. This thing feels really hard! Definitely felt harder than crack babies or liquid jade, or heinous cling.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully : Soul Crusher (5.12b)
By: CritConrad When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: I'd be curious to see what some other people think of the grade of this thing. Its seemed very much a one move wonder and I think my ape index played into it feeling easier.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully : Kill My Hate (5.13a)
By: CritConrad When: Oct 5, 2013

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Comments: If this thing was on morning glory it would see just as much, if not more, traffic than Churning!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Southern Tip : Sabotage (5.11c)
By: CritConrad When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Ok, has anyone actually done the start moves to this?! Even with cheater stones it seemed like it would've been stout 5.12 to get to the first bolt.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp (5.8 R)
By: CritConrad When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: For the general safety of those climbing the popular moderate routes below this climb, please save this climb for a very low-traffic weekday morning and not a busy Sunday afternoon!! or make sure you have helmets for your partner as well as everyone climbing on the ground!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Da Kine Corner (5.12b/c)
By: CritConrad When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: an often overlooked route. super aesthetic line with awesomely entertaining moves. packs quite the punch for being so short. Hard to grade for sure, but the crux of this is harder than anything on latest rage. The fall on the runout between the 3rd and 4th bolt is totally clean and fun.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Shipwreck Wall : Tsunami (5.12c) : Photo
By: CritConrad When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: Great photo of an awesome route! thanks for the upload.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Catwalk Cliff : Catalyst (5.12b)
By: CritConrad When: Apr 3, 2013

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Comments: this routes doesn't seem to be insanely pumpy. But every time I come down from it, I feel about as exhausted as if I had just wrestled a bear.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Shipwreck Wall : Rising Tides (5.12b)
By: CritConrad When: Mar 30, 2013

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Comments: onsighted up to the last bolt on this thing then was baffled. tried many times and couldn't pull the finishing moves. Maybe I was missing something. But the bottom is pretty solid now and the whole thing is really awesome!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Shipwreck Wall : Flight of the Patriot Scud ... (5.11b)
By: CritConrad When: Mar 21, 2013

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Comments: This thing isn't bad. It's just so short that it's hard to call it good. fun moves but it really is just a bolted boulder problem. Worth a burn at least once for sure.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Go Dog Go (5.12c)
By: CritConrad When: Feb 23, 2013

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Comments: the technical crux on this thing isn't a slab at all. Pretty sure it's dead vertical if not barely overhung. The upper moves are totally killer and worth suffering through some teeny tiny holds down low. Why aren't there more people lining up on this thing?!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Picnic Lunch Wall : Five Easy Pieces (start) (5.12a)
By: CritConrad When: Feb 16, 2013

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Comments: Bolt #3 on this route, from what i remembered, would be really hard to place cause you're in the middle of the crux. Much easier for the climber clipping a pre-placed draw. Any amount of thuggery can be avoided with some crafty heel hooking and some balance.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Vision (5.12b)
By: CritConrad When: Feb 13, 2013

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Comments: Found a great way to do the crux for me on top rope only to realize that the rope is RIGHT in front of the foot I used when on lead. All the hard moves seen to be when you're moving from the right face to the left. Crux is very well protected but everywhere else is spaced enough to keep you on your toes.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Latest Rage (5.12b)
By: CritConrad When: Feb 13, 2013

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Comments: I've never tried going left. On the right I do remember one pretty big deadpoint to a GREAT hold which was pretty committing cause you're a ways above your bolt.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Magic Light (5.12b)
By: CritConrad When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: The extension above the first anchor has four bolts and an anchor and adds an exciting bit of climbing with enough space between bolts to make you pay attention to what you're doing. Still holds its reign in my opinion of the best 12a on the Tuff that i've done....so far!


Location: OR : Power Lines
By: CritConrad When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: This area is totally separate from the Tick Ranch. It is a few miles down the dirt roads. Tick ranch is just off FS 4606 (at the bridge) while the powerlines are off of FS 4609.


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