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Member Since: Aug 26, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact CritConrad

Point Rank: # 3,463
Total Points: 169
Last Year: 62
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has CritConrad been climbing?










Contributions


All 415 | Routes 7 | Areas 1 | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 39 | Posts 20 | Stars 297 | Ratings 42
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Celibate wives

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a (1)

Sport, 1 pitch

OR : Smith Rock : (zz) Upper Gorge

Dec 5, 2015

Death Star

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b (1)

Sport

OR : Mt. Hood : Area 51

Oct 23, 2015

Soul Crusher

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (2)

Sport

OR : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully

Oct 21, 2013

Erogenous Zone

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (9)

Trad

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (3) Catwalk Cliff

Oct 17, 2012

Sidewinder

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1)

Trad

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Left Side

Oct 4, 2012

Soft Asylum

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (1)

Sport, 40'

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Hidden Wall

Sep 26, 2012

Tangled Roots can Clog yer Pipes

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (1)

Sport, 25'

AR : Shepherd Springs : Main Bluffline

Aug 2, 2012

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Hidden Wall

OR : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock

Sep 26, 2012

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Draws hanging on the route

Draws hanging on the route

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Celibate wives (5.12a)

Dec 5, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: In the business of Black Hole. Such a great route!

In the business of Black Hole. Such a great route!

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Black Hole (5.12b)

Nov 21, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd ice step in Feb 2015

2nd ice step in Feb 2015

OR : Mt. Hood : The North Face (WI3+ Mod. Snow R)

Sep 26, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Feb 2015

Feb 2015

OR : Mt. Hood : The North Face (WI3+ Mod. Snow R)

Sep 26, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Lots of fixed draws in the cave area at the Zoo

Lots of fixed draws in the cave area at the Zoo

OR : Smith Rock : (y) The Zoo

Sep 1, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Below the crux on That 10d

Below the crux on That 10d

OR : Smith Rock : ... : That 10d (5.12-)

Apr 7, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Lucky Pigeon

Lucky Pigeon

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Lucky Pigeon (5.13c)

Mar 4, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Leaving the crack and heading out onto the face

Leaving the crack and heading out onto the face

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Soul Crusher (5.12b)

Oct 21, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Steep and beautiful!

Steep and beautiful!

OR : Smith Rock : ... : The Heathen (5.13a/b)

Oct 19, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Looney Binge (5.12c)
By: CritConrad When: Nov 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I'd love to chime in about this route. It's something I've looked at for about 4 years and always walked past. It was different than my expectations in a few ways.
1) the crux at the 2nd bolt felt WAY harder than I was expecting. To me they were hands down the hardest moves of the route and I was stumped for longer than I care to admit.

2) This route is way more of a traverse than I realized. The pics are a little deceiving in that it looks like it is a TOTALLY horizontal flake crack in a... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Dr Claw (5.11d)
By: CritConrad When: Nov 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: one more vote for a non-contrived crux. This route was really a lot of fun. I even wished the "tenuous slab" up top gave you a little more run for your money


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Tiananmen Square (5.10c)
By: CritConrad When: Nov 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I had fun on this route, but I really can't get behind the idea of having almost a 30 foot runout while only being about 30 feet off the ground. Sure, it's easy but I found the gap between bolts 3 and 4 unnecessary.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (c) Shipwreck Wall : Shipwreck Wall - River Face : Time To Power (5.12c)
By: CritConrad When: Nov 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This thing is seeing a lot of traffic now with having fixed draws on the upper bit. The difficulties are fairly discontinuous but I think the crux is more like a stout V5 boulder problem and way harder than heinous. The jugs on the upper headwall are so much fun! Also,I was very comfortable skipping the crux bolt (it only increases your fall by about 4 feet) as well as the bolt below the anchors


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (y) The Zoo
By: CritConrad When: Sep 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Here is a link to a MUCH better way to get to the zoo. The parking area is seasonally open due to a road closure, but access is normally easy from skull hollow. You can even bring mountain bikes and be there in 10 minutes!

hillmap.com/m/ag1zfmhpbGxtYXAt...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Cry of the Poor (5.11a)
By: CritConrad When: Aug 30, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route really intimidated me for a long time since you really can't see much gear from below. After finally getting on it, there really is good gear and lots of it! Doubles from a green C3 to .75 camalot with a set of nuts offered me a lot more gear than I needed.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : The Struggle Within (5.11d)
By: CritConrad When: Jan 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I'll chime in with a few thoughts on this route after doing it today. I feel like we underestimated how long it was going to take. the pitches are relatively long and the climbing is sustained making every pitch take just a little longer.

I felt that the 4th pitch (11d) was a little sandbagged and could possibly get 12a. a hard roof move then i kept whipping off above there cause hands and feet kept breaking. This one still has a good bit of choss.

We decided to do one more pitch to reac... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully : Freebase (5.12a)
By: CritConrad When: Mar 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: While belaying a friend on this I found that with having the 1st bolt clipped, it was very hard to give a soft catch. As max was saying, any fall results in a decent sized whipper and the first bolt is weirdly positioned only a few feet above you from where you belay. We found softer catches were possible by stick clipping the second bolt. If you think that is lame, then expect somewhat of a hard catch, or just send the route!


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