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Rock Climbing Photo: sw


Member Since: Sep 5, 2012
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact CrimperE6

Point Rank: # 135
Total Points: 3,806
Last Year: 363
Last 30 Days: 32
65 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has CrimperE6 been climbing?










Contributions


All 869 | Routes 125 | Areas 31 | Photos 398 | Page Improvements | Comments 101 | Posts 31 | Stars 183 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : ... : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: pretty sure we were on the right route, its our 3rd time at sugarloaf. we had the topos and a couple of out of print guides. I found all the mentioned bolts etc. This particular part was just me traversing a bit higher than i should because the rock looked better quality and its a bit more direct to the tree. I guess im just used to 4star routes being like the ones in tuolume meadows etc so it was a bit disappointing!


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : Left Eyebrow (5.7 R)
By: CrimperE6 When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: DONT DO THIS ROUTE... We were really disappointed after seeing the 4 star rating on MP. Total vegetated choss for 1/2 the route, pulled many tv sized blocks off. Not worth your legs! [North face 5.6 is sooo much better]


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth
By: CrimperE6 When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: a note on bolt conditions from L-R, using the 1983 topo mentioned here as reference (invaluable topo for a 1st timer btw!) :

project route on the L arete/groove - old bolts

tooth decay - i replaced the crux bolt (now easier to clip), its ok to get to as there is some good gear on the R in a crack. Best to do the 1st 2 pitches in one, the one dodgy bolt that is supposed to be the end of the 1st pitch is death. I also gave the route its own anchors 5m to the L of the old bolts/chain that all the... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Techweenie (5.11+)
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: A gift! - harder 11a's in Cali for sure ;)


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : To Bolt on Lead or Not to B... (5.11+ PG13)
By: CrimperE6 When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: super fun, nails crux, way harder than the other 5.11s here


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Love Muffin (5.12a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Mar 29, 2016

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Comments: new glueins + new lower offs added.

Bolts have been respaced for the onsight. Be solid on the 3rd clip and dont bring a muppet belayer!

The bolts and anchors are solid 6" meaty things so feel free to log some air time...


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : The Main Wall : Fashion Victim (5.11a/b)
By: CrimperE6 When: Mar 29, 2016

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Comments: new glueins for the lower half. (1st 3 bolts)

I couldnt remove the original 1st expansion bolt


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Gay Naval Twink Chemsex Par... (5.10a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Mar 28, 2016

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Comments: in honor of Michael, we are proud of your service son ;)


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Main Wall Cave Routes
By: CrimperE6 When: Feb 19, 2016

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Comments: its a training anchor, the bolts arnt rated for ropesolo..


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Back Walls : Poison Path Hidden Gym (5.10b)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: For a less stressful 1st clip, bridge up the gully on the L and preclip.


Location: CA : Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Crack A No Go (5.10a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: best to lower off the 1st anchor, the top half is choss with a death block waiting to crush your belayer


Location: CA : Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Escargot (5.11a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: mostly death bolts and ++ dodgy anchor, would be suicide to TR


Location: CA : Tahoe : South Shore : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Poly Grip (5.11)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: death bolts


Location: CA : Tahoe : South Shore : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : New Blood (5.12a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: death bolts


Location: CA : Tahoe : South Shore : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Desiderata (5.10b)
By: CrimperE6 When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: anchors need replacing, very dangerous


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Photo
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 27, 2015

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Comments: on the list!


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Trinity Arêtes : Shooting Gallery : The Boardwalk : Bigfoot's Dick (5.10b)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 25, 2015

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Comments: 5.9+? F6a, good line. better than it looks


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Trinity Arêtes : Visions Wall : Karma-Kazi (5.11a)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: easy to bypass the crux by going R at the 1st bolt


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Trinity Arêtes : Shooting Gallery : Upper Shooting Gallery
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: Best to reach this area from the walk around from Boardwalk (the guidebook doesnt make this clear) slightly a pain in the arse to get to and belay etc.. DEFINITELY BRING A HELMET!

Upper wall routes looked amazing, unfortunately not the purity of line i was hoping for, trying too hard to force a line and the bolt positions reflected this. Nice rock thou, good for a change of scenery, but I preferred the visions wall++


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Trinity Arêtes : Shooting Gallery : The Boardwalk : Girly Man (5.9-)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: aesthetic line


Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Moonstone Beach
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: The biggest impact on the beach is all the annoying dogs and their shite!


Location: CA : Northeast California : Castle Crags : Bull Dog Rock : Bull Dog Direct (5.10+)
By: CrimperE6 When: Oct 1, 2015

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Comments: Both anchors are pretty old and rubbish IMO! Also a one star route not 3! what is it with the over rating! Really, this is as good as the dyke route??


Location: CA : Northeast California : Castle Crags : The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris : Cosmic Wall (5.6 R)
By: CrimperE6 When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: I wanted to like this route so much more, given the high praise on this site, unfortunately only an average route.. one good pitch really. Sorry, this isn't a 4 star route compared to (Proper ) lovers leap /Yosemite so don't get too excited! I recommend spending the hideous hike/time driving to Tahoe!


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Opposite Main Wall : Abstinence (5.9 PG13)
By: CrimperE6 When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: Its possible to finish at the new anchors up and R for the full 5.9 tick!


Location: CA : Northeast California : Burney Limestone (aka The S... : Outer Wall : King of Fives (5.6)
By: CrimperE6 When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: 100+ views but noone climbs me!! :(


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