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Me on the Prow (my first multi-pitch trad climb!)


Member Since: Jan 28, 2012
Last Visit: Aug 3, 2014
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Total Points: 34
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Cres Simpson been climbing?










Contributions


All 100 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvments | Comments 14 | Posts 3 | Stars 49 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Start of Triad (5.6), my first ever trad lead.

Start of Triad (5.6), my first ever trad lead.

AL : Steele : Triad (5.6)

Dec 13, 2012

Me on the Prow (my first multi-pitch trad climb!)

Me on the Prow (my first multi-pitch trad climb!)

Cres Simpson : Random

Nov 11, 2012

Me seconding P4 of the Daddy with my partner belaying right below the P5 corner.

Me seconding P4 of the Daddy with my partner belaying right below the P5 corner.

NC : Linville Gorge : ... : The Daddy (5.6)

Oct 16, 2012

My first trad lead at Steele on Triad (5.6). This is the very beginning of this climb -- it trends left under the first visible roof and then climbs ~50' to a two bolt anchor.

My first trad lead at Steele on Triad (5.6). This is the very beginning of this climb -- it trends left under the first visible roof and then climbs ~50' to a two bolt anchor.

AL : Steele

May 3, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Slip Stream (5.7+)
By: Cres Simpson When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: The bottom part of this climb is pump-y to protect which was very surprising for a 5.6 -- that said, I don't think the moves actually go at any harder than 5.7 if you're not pumping out trying to place gear.

Still agree with above -- not a good choice for a novice leader.


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : More Fun with Dick and Jane (5.9-)
By: Cres Simpson When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: So a word of warning--

I got on this climb this past Sunday (11/3) and took a fall in the bottom flake section when I lost my footing on the lieback in the beginning. I had placed a single very good (to my assessment) #1 C4 shortly before I fell. My #1 managed to pry off a 12"x6"x4" piece of rock off the bottom of the flake and I decked from about 12ft off the ground. The flake was obviously rotten looking at where it broke (there is a line of rotten rock on the inside of the flake)... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Monopoly (5.9)
By: Cres Simpson When: Dec 22, 2012

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Comments: Really fun climb -- great exposure.

For me, the traverse was very thin. The feet are great but it's heady and the potential for a pendulum fall adds some mental difficulty to the route.

The arete is easy and well protected.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Seconds (5.8+)
By: Cres Simpson When: Dec 16, 2012

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Comments: Agree with Ryan Williams' excellent review of the route.

As far as safety goes, this route probably gets a PG-13 rating anywhere else but by North Carolina standards it's well protected. Biggest runouts were probably 25-30 feet on P4 and P5. I'd say be reasonably comfortable at the grade as a 50' fall on slab would be exfoliating to say the least. Crux portions were extremely well protected.

For those who cut their teeth on NC slab at Looking Glass (as I did), Seconds is definitely a totally ... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Bird's Nest Crack (5.9)
By: Cres Simpson When: Dec 9, 2012

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Comments: Not sure where the PG-13 grade came from on this one, but my guess is it's probably because of where you belay -- you belay from a ledge about 15' off the ground with potential for a nasty fall for everyone involved if the leader bails off early in the climb. Place a piece or two on the ground to secure the belayer and you're all set. The gear is excellent all the way up the climb, definitely not PG-13.

I used doubles of 0.75 C4s and 0.5 C4s.

Great climb!! Crux is down low and it's tough for ... more >>


Location: AL : Sand Rock : The Pinnacle : Pin Chimney (5.8+)
By: Cres Simpson When: Dec 6, 2012

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Comments: Awesome trad route and my favorite trad lead at SR (though I haven't built up the nerve to lead Comfortably Numb yet). I think I actually started halfway between the direct start and the true start -- it's slightly overhung but on huge jugs and protects extremely well with a slung horn about 10' off the deck. From there it's smooth sailing!

I did not clip the fixed pin in the chimney as it looked pretty manky, but there's ample pro, albeit finicky. I had some large tricams with me (grey and gre... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Vineland (5.9+)
By: Cres Simpson When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Fun climb, absolutely awesome view from the top. I ended up trending too far right of the line and placing gear, which meant I had to split it into two pitches due to rope drag. It goes very well in two short pitches which helps keep rope drag under control.

The trad section in the middle of the climb is easy (and forgettable) 5.6 climbing and the harder sections are bolted, so this one goes well even if you're not leading 5.9 on trad. Agree with other posters that the climb is more than adequa... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater : The Daddy (5.6)
By: Cres Simpson When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: Did the Daddy, the Mummy, and the Prow back-to-back on Sunday (10/14). It was a bit overcast but other than that amazing weather and an absolutely awesome day of climbing.

I decided to do the 5.8 direct variation of P3 since I had been on it before and traversing the ledge seemed less fun. It's really only 2-3 moves of well-protected 5.8 and then it becomes easy 5.5 to the P3 belay. That said, there wasn't any pro for me above the 5.8 section, so be careful not to misstep and fall close to the ... more >>


Location: AL : Palisades Park : Boobs (5.9)
By: Cres Simpson When: May 26, 2012

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Comments: Someone left a yellow TCU stuck about 8 feet below the crux in the horizontal as of 5/25. I didn't have any luck getting it out but I didn't spend a lot of time on it. Looked to be in pretty good condition if anyone wants to fiddle with trying to get it out.


Location: AL : Palisades Park
By: Cres Simpson When: May 26, 2012

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Comments: One of the few places that seems to offer tolerable climbing "out of season" (aka deep summer) in AL. The cliffline gives shade from morning through early afternoon and there's plentiful access to water from the top of the cliff.

As a heads up, the park office doesn't open until 9am to sell permits -- though we did manage to find an employee who doesn't normally work the office who was willing to open it up for us before the ranger got there. We were only charged $2, but that may reflect inexpe... more >>


Location: AL : Palisades Park : Cashmere (5.7)
By: Cres Simpson When: May 26, 2012

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Comments: Bolted anchors now at the top.


Location: AL : Palisades Park : Tim's Route (5.9+)
By: Cres Simpson When: May 26, 2012

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Comments: Very fun route with lots of balance-y moves on thin holds. Want to reiterate what the description says though -- there's basically no pro through the first 15 feet which is very thin (imho, the crux of the climb). Definitely want a pad and a spotter if leading this one to protect against groundfall.


Location: AL : Steele : Photo
By: Cres Simpson When: May 3, 2012

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Comments: So I couldn't find this climb listed her on MP, but it's very possible that it goes by another name.

I thought maybe this was analogous to what's listed on MP as "Easy Street", but I don't know my way around Steele well enough to know if they're the same climb. If anyone can clarify for me, that would be awesome.


Location: AL : Sand Rock : Holiday Block : Oyster (5.10a)
By: Cres Simpson When: Jan 28, 2012

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Comments: Great late afternoon climb in cooler weather -- this route gets sun all afternoon.

More 5.8+/5.9ish except for pulling the roof at the top, which felt like a solid 10a move.

Definitely an underrated Sand Rock route -- great views from the top and a solid climb.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
Conditions at Looking Glass this weekendSouthern StatesCres SimpsonNov 14, 2012
Climbers on the Daddy 10/14/12Southern StatesCres SimpsonOct 16, 2012
re: Asheville NC beta? (mostly non-climbing, unfortunately)Southern StatesCres SimpsonOct 9, 2012

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

The Nose 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area

Golden Locks 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East

Prerequisite for Excellence 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East

Passages 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East

The Daddy 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater

Comfortably Numb 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

AL : Sand Rock : The Pinnacle

Stan's Crack 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North

Misty 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

AL : Sand Rock : Sun Wall

No Alternative 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face

Registration (The Arch) 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

AL : Jamestown : Winter Wall

Truth or Consequences 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

AL : Jamestown : Harvest Wall

The Mummy 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater

Love Handle 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East

The Prow 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

NC : Linville Gorge : Amphitheater

Graham's Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

AL : Steele

Vineland 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

AL : Steele

Pin Chimney 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

AL : Sand Rock : The Pinnacle

Righthand Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North

Bird's Nest Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

AL : Steele

Seconds 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NC : Laurel Knob

Monopoly 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

AL : Steele

Lonesome Dove 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff

Sundial Crack 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area

Oyster 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

AL : Sand Rock : Holiday Block

That Eight (aka Kennel Club) 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

AL : Sand Rock : Holiday Block

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