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Location: NM : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: September 20th
River bed is dry, a smidge of mud is still down near the Swept Away landing, but the landing itself is totally dry. Everything is regrowing nicely.
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Location: NM : Last Chance Canyon : Santa Fe Wall
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: September 20th.
Santa Fe Cave is 100% dry and open. Wash-out puts the first bolt up around 25' off the deck, sort of, but it is easy climbing and clip. Stick Clip should be easy to employ.
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Location: NM : Last Chance Canyon
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: !!WARNING!! Bull Dozer Cited! September 20th, 2009!!!
The utility company ran a dozer down part of the road, cleared brush and rocks. Did not improve the actual road all that much. They did more work on the service road than anything else. That said the dozer in question is parked a mile or so before the first gate. Thus all should be wary approaching the canyon at night!!!
CHECK IT!
http://www.farewelltospring.com/lastchance2/lastchance2.html
Ask these kids about the peril you face drivi... more >>
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Devil's Slide : Easier Than It Looks (5.5)
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice story..
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cave Crack!
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Giants Molars : (03) Unknown 5.10 (5.10c)
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Silly climbing...Guy has it right, as this is one strange line.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Giants Molars : (01) Gravity Cavity (5.6)
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route to shoot pics of climbers on the adjoining routes.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Lichen Wall : Ker Plunk (5.7) : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, check out how clear the corner below Leage of Doom...the Poision Ivy looks like it has been trimmed back. Nice.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Pear and Apple (Bouldering) : The Smoking Section : ... : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic, the usual quality that I have come to expect from your photographs.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Marlboro Man Wall
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am not sure this area is open to climbing? Uninformed as I am, I know the sign for no climbing has been removed, so I could be totally wrong. One of the Okies would know for sure, me being just a TX boy.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott : Foolish Behavior (5.9+ PG13)
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would agree that this route whips like an R, but seeing that the deck is out of play, I gotta stay with PG-13.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott : Yee Haw (5.6)
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great soloable downclimb, if you are leading 9's
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the primary function of that sign was to keep the boy scouts from setting up rap lines when they should head over to Meat Slab or just go further down canyon. Even though sport rapping is off limits, it goes on all the time.
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Location: NM : Last Chance Canyon : Mad Cow Wall : (05) Chuckwagon (5.12c)
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has that great...hang out and chat-for-as-long-as-your-belayer-will-tolerate-rest... Another impressive final move, which I would contend is one of the unique aspects of hard climbs in LCC.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Yellow Corner (5.5)
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good points here.
Addressing one, gear, and the difficulty of placing that gear. This has no bearing of the actual difficulty rating attached to a route. A route being run-out, or having sketchy gear is usually reflected in the X or RX ratings, not the YDS numbers.
I am not sure if that was the inital point, but I just wanted to be clarify, and make this point, applicable or not.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Echo Dome
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not that it matters all that much.
Areas around those crags in the guidebooks have had traffic up pretty much everything. Unless you are clearing lots of brush ( like the new traverse on Crab Eyes), it has probably been done.
That said, there is always the exception. Routes at that grade might be passed over, being too easy to attract attention or a qualified climber. So, claim you first ascent, name the route, and post it up. If someone else has knocked it out already, or named it, they w... more >>
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Yellow Corner (5.5)
By: Craig Childre When: Jul 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.7?
I am not knocking Tony, by any means. He crusies most 12's, and solos 10's. So his perception of the difference between a 5.5 and a 5.7 is sort of jadeded. That is, to him, everything below 5.8 is just 5.FUN , and it all sort of looks about the same. Consider this, could you differenciate between a 5.3 and 5.1? I know that I would be hard pressed to.
Really, ratings are great to measure yourself, but nothing to live and die by. I try to use them as a guide, so when I attempt a new r... more >>
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Hidden Wall : Forgotten (5.10b/c)
By: Craig Childre When: Jul 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent. Great FA, and looks very nice
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Tiny Bubbles : Unknown Name (name it if yo... (5.10a)
By: Craig Childre When: May 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is Tiny left face 5.6, or the Unknown rated at 5.9, depends on the line you take above the bulge. This should get pulled down, as it is a duplicate, detailed on the Beta Pic for the area.
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Location: NM : Sitting Bull Falls
By: Craig Childre When: May 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Closed!
Fire danger has closed the entire Lincoln. Sitting Bull is open but no hiking on the trail, i.e. up to the climbing.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome : Blades of Steel (5.11)
By: Craig Childre When: May 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It isn't a deck if you blow the 2nd bolt, but it will put you back down into the tree with your belayer. Watched my buddy deck into his finace this past weekend. Stick clipped the 2nd. Originally the crack had some copper heads beat into it, which only remnants remain.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome : Come and Get Your Love (5.10a)
By: Craig Childre When: May 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shorties, can bypass the crux balancing over to the right into a shallow crack, then work the easy moves to the top on the good jugs. It is desperate, but at least it could get the smaller of us up.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Upper Exum Ridge (5.5) : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Mar 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely will be stealing that lead from my partner here, I hope.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Upper Exum Ridge (5.5) : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Mar 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great look at this pitch! Really makes me want that lead. Wow.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Vestal Peak : Wham Ridge (5.4 R)
By: Craig Childre When: Mar 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My uncle Mark took this route on back in the late 80s. Waffle stompers, with a touch of rain to keep it interesting, and no rope. Together with Lance, they opted for the most direct line straight up the middle of the face. It was fun to watch from camp, when the clouds lifted enough.
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