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Member Since: Sep 30, 2001
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Craig Quincy


Point Rank: # 1,964
Total Points: 286
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Craig Quincy been climbing?










Contributions


All 201 | Routes 10 | Areas 9 | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 51 | Posts 91 | Stars 27 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: Craig Quincy When: Nov 5, 2003

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Comments: Replacing a fallen out pin with a bolt in Eldo seems like sacrilege. I wish I had a dollar for every X on a topo that now requires crafty RP and ball-nut work to keep fear in check. There are a number of examples - the second pitch of C'est La Vie, the first pitch of [Practice Climb 101], etc. Even though the fixed hardware rules allow for replacing the pins, in most cases, they remain missing. Modern gear makes the leads possible and other decent gear is nearby, so what is really required i... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Keyhole Flake (5.10)
By: Craig Quincy When: Oct 19, 2003

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Comments: Some fist side gear is in order whether that's a #4 friend, a #4 camalot or a #3 - #3.5 camalot. A couple in that size might even be a good idea. Both the Indian Creek Climbs guide book and the Super Topo from Rock and Ice list the rack as only up to #2.5 friend. This is definitely an error.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Blackwalk (5.10b/c R)
By: Craig Quincy When: Sep 12, 2003

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Comments: After the crux on pitch one there are some gear placements to be had that reduce the 5.8 runout to the ramp/ledge where the Backtalk anchors are located. I believe this must have been the site of the fixed pin because the slots look like pin scars to me. Anyways, after doing the crux moves and getting back on your feet and off your arms, there is a small horizontal crack that takes a #1 and #2 ball nut and a #00 or #0 TCU. An RP could also be placed where the TCU goes.... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : The Grand Traverse (5.10+)
By: Craig Quincy When: Sep 4, 2003

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Comments: It's also possible to climb the first half of pitch one in the above description. At this point there are some threaded slings and a fixed stopper. Not the best rap anchor in the world, so we backed it up while climbing and only used it for getting down. I'd say it's about 5.8 or so.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Piton Perch (5.6)
By: Craig Quincy When: Sep 4, 2003

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Comments: I'd recommend bringing several long slings to help with protection [opportunities]. At the beginning I burrowed underneath the large chockstone and developed wicked rope drag. To cure the problem, I went off belay on top of the chockstone and pulled all the rope through and tossed it back to my belayer. Perhaps you're supposed to go on the other side of the intital chockstone to prevent these problems.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Plotinus (5.10)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jul 25, 2003

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Comments: In reference to "...despite needing a little weeding" , I give you this:

When the farmer cleans out his ditches, I mourn the loss of many a flower which he calls a weed. -Henry David Throeau


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : The Scientist (5.11a/b)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jul 18, 2003

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Comments: Slab-a-licious! Sticking in the gear in between the 2 and 3rd bolts is half the fun and quite welcome. Watch out for the loose rocks on the ledge when pulling the rope.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Joint Venture (5.11a)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jul 18, 2003

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Comments: If you're thinking of linking up the first part of Joint Venture with Cannabis Sportiva, don't! It's certainly possibly with long slings, but it's not worth the risk to your belayer. There are some gnarly loose blocks in between the two routes that you must traverse across.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley
By: Craig Quincy When: Jul 16, 2003

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Comments: There's no standard on the site. When the type of cam isn't listed, I always assume friends since they've been around the longest and they correspond roughly to inches. A #3 Friend tips out at 3 inches. Most guide books use the friend convention too. Sometimes it's possible to figure it all out based on the type of crack under discussion. #4 cam in an offwidth discussion ususally means Camalot. #4 cam in a fist crack reference usually means Friend. It gets even more inte... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Divination (5.11b)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jun 30, 2003

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Comments: After traversing left on the ramp at the start of pitch one, the first set of bolts encountered appears to be a new route and harder than 11b. Divination is one more set of bolts to the left. Does anyone have details on this other route that's between Divination and Earth Voyage?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Fat City Crack (5.10c)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jun 23, 2003

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Comments: There is only a single bolt in the chimney before the roof on P2. It's new and adequate for an emergency retreat , but shouldn't be counted on as a descent anchor if things go badly at the roof. This would require down climbing the slot and it would be easier to use 'dangle and thrash' A0 tactics to surmount the roof at that point.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Wet Dream (5.12a)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jun 20, 2003

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Comments: Using shoulder length slings before the first roof, at the end of the slab, and below the crux bulge helps to alleviate rope drag.


Location: UT : Zion National Park
By: Craig Quincy When: Jun 17, 2003

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Comments: Will-This time of year the staying out of the sun is probably a more important factor. Given that, I'd say do Dessert Sheild since it's in the shade most of the day. Lunar Ecstacy, on the other hand, gets full sun. I believe the two are similar in difficulty, both are classics and you pretty much nailed the pros and cons.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : The Minstrel (5.11a)
By: Craig Quincy When: Jun 13, 2003

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Comments: This one gets my vote for Most Contrived route at the Riviera for which there are several contenders. Do Sea Breeze, which is excellent, and skip this one.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Castle Rock/Lower Falls Ice
By: Craig Quincy When: Dec 1, 2002

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Comments: B.C. is looking pretty bad and another big cold snap will be required for it to rebuild. It has unfortunately melted a lot since a few weeks ago.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge
By: Craig Quincy When: Nov 29, 2002

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Comments: Climbed at Loch Vale on Thursday 11/28 while others were cooking the Turkey. Perfect day with no wind. Conditions sound similar and perhaps not any fatter than those listed by Leo on 11/17. The trail is still easily walkable. My partner, Dale, led Mixed Feelings by getting a creative RP placement and a good blade placement above the regular piton and to the left of where the ice comes down. The blade is currently insitu if you're game.

The slopes above All Mixed Up do not look particula... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : The Shipyard : Electronic Battleship (5.10)
By: Craig Quincy When: Oct 8, 2002

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Comments: I would suggest bringing three or four #3.5 camalots or #4 Friends and maybe some other additional cams. The wide fist/off-fist section is very parallel and goes on for 20 feet. If you have small hands like me, reaching back in the crack won't help and it's hard to make upward progress with your feet slipping out, so the extra gear will be welcome. On top rope, I found it much easier to just lay back this section.


Location: UT : Zion National Park
By: Craig Quincy When: Sep 27, 2002

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Comments: Here's a few of the NPS regulations that are worth noting as of 2002. Most of the rangers that I've met there are friendly towards climbers (unlike Yosemite). So, let's do our part and keep it that way by following the regs and cleaning up after ourselves.

Permits are NOT required for day climbs.Permits ARE required for overnight climbs.Power drills are illegal.It's illegal to camp at the base of a climb or in a vehicle.Gardening of plants from cracks is not permitted.All human feces must be ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Free Willie (5.11a)
By: Craig Quincy When: Aug 18, 2002

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Comments: The rock below the first bolt is crumbly and breaks unexpectedly. I know because I broke off a substantial foothold and fell ten feet to the ground and then another fifteen feet into the talus. So, be careful out there! And, I would recommend always wearing a helmet, as they are rather stylish when tumbling through talus.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags
By: Craig Quincy When: Jul 8, 2002

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Comments: If this is your first time visiting the Northern Crags (Mid Rib, Rib Rock, Sharksfin, etc.), prepare to be lost. There is no trail that we could find and the approach is not as simple as "heading up hill from Baldplate Inn". We followed the instructions from Rock & Ice #116 after parking just north of the Inn and headed mostly straight uphill above the fence. After following a faint trail and several pieces of flagging, we ended up at a survey marker, then we thrashed up hill and ended ... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: 2 Climbers stranded on Longs PeakCommunity ForumCraig QuincySep 13, 2013
re: Rattled by Rattle Snake at base of C'est La Vie Redgarden Wall EldoradoColoradoCraig QuincyAug 4, 2013
re: Re-bolting Anarchy Wall - please come help!ColoradoCraig QuincyJul 15, 2013
re: Wind Tower middle ledge cleaned up:ColoradoCraig QuincyJun 10, 2013
re: Wag Bag DispenserNevadaCraig QuincyMar 27, 2013
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