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Captain Cairn kicker


Member Since: Jan 24, 2004
Last Visit: 5 mins ago
Contact Craig Martin


Point Rank: # 553
Total Points: 1,080
Last Year: 192
Last 30 Days: 36
56 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Craig Martin been climbing?










Contributions


All 2438 | Routes 37 | Areas 10 | Photos 102 | Page Improvments | Comments 50 | Posts 27 | Stars 1136 | Ratings 1076
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Upper Jungle
By: Craig Martin When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: This area has good morning shade if you are looking for it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Six Pence (5.6)
By: Craig Martin When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: Probably this route Captain Jack.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Asia : Orient Express (5.7)
By: Craig Martin When: Mar 31, 2013

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Comments: 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, 50'.
The last bolt is to the right a bit and might be easy to miss. I did.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : ... : Photo
By: Craig Martin When: Nov 17, 2012

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Comments: The first bolt in this photo has been removed. Nothing left but a hole with a sleeve in it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : ... : Photo
By: Craig Martin When: Nov 17, 2012

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Comments: This bolt, a recent addition only 2 years old, is already a spinner. So are many of the other recently added bolts on this route. I hand tightened the nuts but they stop before tightening down on the hanger.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Dodgeball (5.7)
By: Craig Martin When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this route the other day before the big rain. We really enjoyed the route, easily as good as most of the routes on the Lotta Balls wall, IMO.

The descent was a little confusing. The 1st rappel off of Kick in the Balls (3 fixed nuts) is short and traverses to climbers right to a small tree that is easy to miss. The exposed scrambling to get to Lotta Balls descent was also pretty exciting.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Forgotten Ambition (5.9)
By: Craig Martin When: Aug 26, 2012

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Comments: OK, I haven't been there in a while. Maybe you climbed this route High Fructose Corn Syrup? The description says 8 meters left of Maudlin and 4 meters left of Forgotten Ambition.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Wop Dego (5.5)
By: Craig Martin When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: R.I.P Stymingersfink.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Forgotten Ambition (5.9)
By: Craig Martin When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: gen-eva
53 mins ago
This route is now fully bolted, including 'biner anchors at the top.
Pretty easy for a 5.9, IMHO. Very enjoyable for someone new to leading routes.

You probably climbed this route Maudlin, and yes it is easy for 5.9, probably because it is a 5.7


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Steorts' Ridge (5.6)
By: Craig Martin When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: You mean the rap anchors that have already been added to this area are not enough? Those anchors where not there 20 years ago. It was a walk off back then. I would vote no to any bolts being added to this route.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Witches : Skinny Witch (5.9)
By: Craig Martin When: Jan 5, 2012

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Comments: After getting denied in Echo Canyon proper due to a closure for wintering wildlife, we checked this place out. Thanks for the hardware James. Unfortunately this place will hold little interest for free climbers as it is really loose. Time will not be kind to these towers. The best holds are the bolts.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon
By: Craig Martin When: Jan 5, 2012

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Comments: I went to climb in Echo Canyon yesterday 1/4/12. All of the climbing parking areas, roads and trails are marked with new signs that say CLOSED to all public access from January 1st to the second saturday in April for wintering wildlife protection. Does anyone know if this is a regular occurrence?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Trick of the Tail (5.10+ A3+) : Photo
By: Craig Martin When: Dec 17, 2011

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Comments: This looks like an exciting lead. I like the all knowing smile on Gagners face.....at least it looks like a smile.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Black Orpheus (5.9+) : Photo
By: Craig Martin When: Dec 12, 2011

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Comments: Great photo, great pitch, great route. Just a lot of great.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Honeycomb Chimney (5.9)
By: Craig Martin When: May 6, 2011

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Comments: We had fun on this route. Nothing awesome but several fun pitches on good rock make it worthwhile. We descended the Magic Triangle rappel route after not finding the Chocolate Flakes anchor mentioned in the guide book. I was not aware you could descend as for Olive Oil but that could be a very nice way to go.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Magic Triangle (5.9 R)
By: Craig Martin When: May 6, 2011

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Comments: The rappel anchors for this route will need some updating sometime in the relatively near future, IMO. They are all in fine shape for now as long as you don't mind rappeling from miles of tat connecting skinny trees, chockstones and fixed nuts.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : Fool's Paradise (5.10)
By: Craig Martin When: Nov 4, 2010

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Comments: You still need 2 ropes to rap from the top of the 3rd pitch of Western Grebe. This new anchor changes nothing in that regard.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : Fool's Paradise (5.10)
By: Craig Martin When: Nov 4, 2010

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Comments: Shiny new 2 bolt anchor with chains found at the base of Fools Paradise on 11/3/10. It is aproximately 15' from the anchor at the top of Western Grebe 2nd pitch. Does anyone know how long it has been there? Is it a replacement of an old bolted anchor?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : Western Grebe (5.8 R)
By: Craig Martin When: Nov 3, 2010

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Comments: This route has always been a good, pretty safe by LCC standards, multi pitch cruise. It is now a full on "Pleasure Climb" thanks to the addition of several new bolts. I have not been on this route in years but it certainly did not have this many bolts when I last did it. Some of the bolts still had the rock dust and I swear during the time it took us to climb the route several more new bolts showed up on the Via Duck variation at the bottom.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Goodro's Chimney (5.6)
By: Craig Martin When: Sep 5, 2010

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Comments: I left the piton for historical purposes. It was so obviously shitty I didn't think anyone would be clipping it for pro. Just goes to show......


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : The West Slabs (5.5)
By: Craig Martin When: Aug 6, 2010

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Comments: In what way does it being a "beginner trad 5.4" have anything to do with the retro-bolting of a classic line?

Yes, I was a beginner once. I climbed the West Slabs as a beginner. There where no bolts at that time. I lived. We even rapped right down the route linking trees and downclimbing the sections that where to far to rap. That was the most exciting part.

I have grown tired of all the talk of beginner this and noob that. We where all beginners once and for those of us with a few years unde... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon) : Death by Chocolate (5.8)
By: Craig Martin When: May 22, 2010

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Comments: Actually Paul, I have done the climb, and before the addition of the new bolt. I would not have chimed in otherwise. You and I communicated via email about it afterwards, it was a few years ago, I don't expect you to remember. I risked the 70' fall you are talking about. It was the most memorable moment of the climb for me. The rest was no big deal, and that is my point.

Most of the comments post bolt addition say something to the effect that the crux was easy and the hard part was the runout ... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon) : Death by Chocolate (5.8)
By: Craig Martin When: May 21, 2010

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Comments: Sounds like the new bolt is gonna get some climbers into trouble on the upper pitches. Maybe it should get removed to return the route to its original condition. Most climbers able to safely negotiate the crux pitch in its original condition would have had very little problem on the upper pitches.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Goodro's Chimney (5.6)
By: Craig Martin When: Apr 21, 2010

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Comments: The first piton can be removed with your fingers. I left it in place for historical purposes. It can be backed up with solid gear. The other pitons are much better.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Barefoot in Barbados (5.10a)
By: Craig Martin When: Apr 16, 2010

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Comments: Take note of the small waterfall. Very nice setting.


Barefoot in Barbados
Barefoot in Barbados



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