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Rock Climbing Photo: Potrero Mexico, Sport Climbing Mecca.


Member Since: Aug 28, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Craig Childre

Point Rank: # 87
Total Points: 4,842
Last Year: 74
Last 30 Days: 2
28 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Craig Childre been climbing?










Contributions


All 1382 | Routes 360 | Areas 49 | Photos 61 | Page Improvements | Comments 202 | Posts 371 | Stars 304 | Ratings 35
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Mad Cow Wall : Mad Cow (5.12b) : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: What I like so much here... is how you can see the cheater stack below Couch Potato, with a great perspective on the route too.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley : Unknown (5.12c) : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: It's likely this is "Never Saw It Coming" at 12c/d ... as "Goodbye Double Wide" is closer to 13.


Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Snakes Head / S Wall : Bourbon Street (5.8 PG13)
By: Craig Childre When: Dec 7, 2015

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Comments: So your comfortable at the grade in the area. Nice. I could be wrong, as I theorize, that traverse up to the 1st bolt could be how the route went up to start with. Further, key holds on the direct start could have been broken? Ultimately, I don't think this warrants an upgrade. Perhaps an alternate start rating, somewhat like what some consider looking at Crusin' for a Brusin. Good discussion!


Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Snakes Head / S Wall : Bourbon Street (5.8 PG13)
By: Craig Childre When: Nov 30, 2015

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Comments: Arch... I'll tell ya, I kind of agree. Not sure about the erosion, but I do know last time I was on it, I used your start right traverse left to the 1st bolt. Before you ask to up this rating to a 10, might I suggest you put in a TR lap of something classic like Amazon Woman at 10a/b. Still that direct start might check in around the 10's, I didn't fool with it enough to say for sure.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: If you are looking to establish some new problems. In the refuge, I would park at Treasure Lake and hike up around the area below Elk Slabs and Treasure cove. You can also start in the Sunset Pool on the other end. Lots of rock to play on. Plenty of established problems out there... if you can find them. So much good rock around, you are sure to find something that suits you. Good luck.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 22, 2015

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Comments: Trad Sport - you are correct. Typically these routes have a few bolts along with some gear placements. On rare occasions the gear isn't necessary, like the #2 cam that can be placed on 'Come and Get Your Love' over at Lost Dome. More often you will find a situation like on Dr. Coolhead, where that first placement is imperative, and even with it, if you blow that clip at that first bolt you'll most likely deck. Coolhead is one of the bolder lead IMHO.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott : Down for the Count (5.6)
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: If you don't enjoy off-width climbing. Then you should probably avoid this route.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott : Arm Bar (5.6)
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: I've updated this route description. Good points. I agree, I think Oklahoma Select has this route misplaced. The old Lohn guide describes the original route going up to finish up at Foolish, or the gully before it. I like to remember that Mayse solos most everything on Mount Scott, so missing a 5.6 lines not really big on his radar. ;)


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott : Yee Haw (5.6)
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: I must have confused everyone I met yesterday. Mis-named the route we we're on a few times working without a guidebook. I was the classic guy spraying mis-information all over. Told several that Yee Haw was Too much fun... which is on the other side of the refuge! So apologies to those I mislead. I did get the name of Mr. Green slings right, I think.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Wizard Wall : Asleep at the Wheel (5.12a)
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: I like to point out... Dr. Coolhead was rated 10a by the Lohn guidebook. Today its easily a 10c/d, I think Tony put it at 10d. I just see rating fluctuate so much, I try to not get wrapped up in all of it, plus some routes simply have secret beta that can unlock the easier moves. All told, great feedback. I enjoy seeing what others think and exactly why.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: Killer part is how you can see the crux below and so much of the route. Excellent work!


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : ... : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: I remember thinking on that pitch, I would have to do something really stupid to fall out of this crack. Money jams all the way what a romp that was. Nice route to free solo, my only fear would be on that choss pitch.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows
By: Craig Childre When: Aug 6, 2015

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Comments: It depends on which wall you are interested. I would start at Lichen Wall. When it get sunny move up to Leaning Tower or Zoo wall. The Dyhedral stays cool most of the day but gets lots of traffic.


Location: Climbing Gear : Single-Strand Backpack Coil
By: Craig Childre When: Jul 29, 2015

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Comments: The earlier version coiled from the middle or ends was odd. I'd never use that method. THIS is the version I prefer. Fast and efficient.


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River : Piedra River - Lower West : Chocolate Corner (5.9+)
By: Craig Childre When: Jul 10, 2015

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Comments: Bring a big brush, the dust and dirt will makes greasing off easy. Cool opening moves up to the ledge.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls
By: Craig Childre When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: I've never seen them not running. This place is awesome in the summer. Shade all day, a great place to get a quick cool dip in. Just know, the place is stout! Solid grades. I was sending 10d up in Last Chance before I could send anything here.


Location: CO : Pagosa Springs : The Pillars
By: Craig Childre When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: After the Berry Boulder, I hiked up last week, scouting the approach. Fixed a few cairns, beat the trail down. I'll be back with a proper partner and gear.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Jun 9, 2015

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Comments: Soon to be followed by the coyote, who will fall followed down by an anvil or boulder, while the road runner seems to levitate across the huge chasam!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: Getting a little heavy handed with the saturation. Great picture, just looks a fair bit unnatural.


Location: Trad Climbing : Bunny Ears: The Best Climbi...
By: Craig Childre When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: Good at a bolted anchor. I like the setup using, clove hitches. You can add a 3rd loop without too much difficulty.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott : Foolish Behavior (5.9+ PG13)
By: Craig Childre When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: My personal experience. I was like 1 or 2 moves from topping this line out and peeled off. I had 10-15 feet to spare. If you got a soft catch or weighed significantly more than your belayer, it might stretch down to the deck. It's the longest fall I've ever taken. Deck or not, it's one hell of a wild ride!


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Hueco Cave : Lips and assholes (5.12d)
By: Craig Childre When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Grading standard here isn't vividly clear. I take it all with a grain of salt. Ratings are set to guide me to where I can probably achieve success while being tested. The real glory is the individual route, not the rating, each line holds it's own secret that must be unlocked. I still chase the numbers, but temper it knowing it is impossible to have an absolute standard for such thing.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Smörgåsbord
By: Craig Childre When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: Smorgasbord... I believe this name is mis-spelt.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Solstice Cave : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Why so hostile about KW? Usually folks just warn about inflated grades in the area, instead of launching a personal attack against an individual. Gogas' and others have put up routes here too, the ratings have been a product of the community of locals, not just Kevin. No class.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
By: Craig Childre When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: They've added a pullout since this was posted. Mileage is spot on at 1.4 miles though. Updated with new information thank you.


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