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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Wapiti Boulders : Straight Outta Nowhere (V6+ PG13) : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: May 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great action shot with the bird of prey circling above the top out!
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Pogue's Arete (5.11-) : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: May 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot! Love the use of the offset strobe to give some fill but not flatten it out the way a direct strobe would. Excellent depiction of the POV from the back of the cave.
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Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Snakes Head / S Wall : Big Bite (5.10b X)
By: Craig Childre When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Duane recently wrote about Big Bite, not directly, but where else are you gonna fine a 2nd pitch with only one bolt in the 80's.
Duane talks about catching the mother of all whippers in this article.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Headache Area : The Headache (5.10+) : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice free solo.... took me awhile to notice the missing harness.
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Violince Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.11a)
By: Craig Childre When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last bolt was put in for those who are hang dogging the final moves, and to keep the rope out of the crack when top roped. I've blown the roof and taken a healthy clean 15 footer. Soft catch helps, and watch getting flipped by the rope. Brain bucket is advisable.
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Solstice Cave : Straight Into Frantic Obliv... (5.13d)
By: Craig Childre When: Mar 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool to see it's been repeated. I think when we watched Kevin working for the 1st ascent he was skipping the lower section to rehearse the crux moves below the roof. We just heard the shouts of joy from over at Violin Wall.
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Breakfast Wall : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Feb 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: #1 - Erika on Toast is correct.
#2 - In this photo is actually the 3rd route, a 5.4.
#2 - Frosted Flakes - 5.7 - shares the start with Toast but stays in the corner and finishes about 5 feet left of the chains for Toast.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Treasure Cove
By: Craig Childre When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool... do know that Philip Mitchell fell during one crossing before the chain was installed. A cool place, that is kind of surreal.
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf
By: Craig Childre When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent new descent write up. For my next tour, want to do the "ii" descent using a single 70m to confirm that the procedure and rope lengths required. The double 70's make for a good rap, but pulling the rope is heinously difficult. All day long, it was the hardest work I'd done all day. Thanks again for typing this up.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6) : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Oct 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love that route! Great pic...
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower : North Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not to beef on you... but clipping biner to biner is a big no no. You should be using alpine slings. Any case, it is safer to pull out the bolt end biner, and clip it onto the end of the draw to make one double length. Best to go biner, nylon, biner, nylon, biner. It also saves wear on biners and ropes.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : Santa Maria : ... : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks crusty! Nice FA...
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ames Wall : Seamstress Corner (5.11+ R) : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Jul 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: At least it doesn't have the homemade sheet metal hangar! I'd contend that this button, being in an alpine setting, is way scarier than the ones I come across out in the desert where the rain and freezes are lower in frequency and severity.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Jul 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I always take the leavers that get left behind when someone can't finish a route, usually just a single biner. Kind of like a good booty cam that's almost stuck though. Sort of a Trophy of sorts... and it's even more fun if you know who left the gear, to just give it back, remind them of their short comings ;) Fixed gear is a completely different story. I'm reminded of Potreo, where the first bolts are usually 20-30 feet off the deck because if you put them any lower then kids wil... more >>
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Solstice Cave : Infernal Justice (5.13b)
By: Craig Childre When: Jul 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a Gogas favorite!
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree...
By: Craig Childre When: Jun 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Access question: How bad is the road? I'm in a VW Golf and wondered how close I can get, or if I can make it to the camping?
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Location: CO : New Nose Record - 2:23:51 (...
By: Craig Childre When: Jun 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stunning!
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Tiny Bubbles : Unknown (5.9)
By: Craig Childre When: Jun 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You rate this 5.9? Crux is the same as Tiny Left? If so, then no way on earth it's a 5.9...
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Crab Eyes : West Face : Crab Salad (5.8)
By: Craig Childre When: Jun 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not positive, but I believe this route was identified in the Lohn guidebook as "The Arete" as a 5.7 R. Terry would know more than I.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Treasure Cove
By: Craig Childre When: Jun 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry, sad to say, you are dead wrong! From Post Oak Falls, Treasure Cove is North by North East, check the map... At Post Oak you hike North East and then trend back towards the north up into the meadows below Elk Slabs. Look for the big boulder which the trail snakes around and then scramble up into the cove and up the slab.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Leaning Tower : Mainliner (5.13c)
By: Craig Childre When: Jun 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fat Send Cody!!!! Love to see NM making national news... especially the part that was apart of the Republic of Texas!
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Mad Cow Wall : Bubbles (5.13b)
By: Craig Childre When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nick Duttle logged the first ascent on Bubbles. 2005 See it on his 8a.nu card.
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon
By: Craig Childre When: May 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Last word is that Last Chance will be closed until the fall of 2012, as the area is still in the recovery phase. The possibility of pushing it into 2013 is still an option, should plant stability and moisture levels dictate.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : The Gem (5.12c)
By: Craig Childre When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: @ Darryl... that is how I figure most of us might react... once you peel off the wall, realizing that it's gonna be a long and or close one... if you're belay isn't already on point, screaming isn't gonna improve their response. For me, a "Whoa" is all I can muster as I try to process what's to come. I think it might be linked to how we train to suppress our natural panic response. Sound thinking during these desperate situations is crucial. Love the historical stuff like this. Thanks!
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs : Water Streak (5.7 X)
By: Craig Childre When: May 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not to diminish the head games this route can play on lead. Once you turn onto the slab section, it's easy 5.5-6 climbing to the chains. The X is warranted, but unless your slab technique is near zero, you shouldn't be intimidated by this rewarding lead.
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