Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Bingo Baby : Bingo Baby (5.13c/d)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Steven Jeffery ?
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Liquid Oxygen (5.12a)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: there isn't a utah 12 that DTM doesn't think is soft , this is a solid grade holding 12a awsome route as well, go get on harder rt's bro
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Bingo Baby : Princess Di (5.12c)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Detailed description above, this is a great af route on stellar limestone reminds me of blocky rifle climbs. haven't redpointed but there is a lot of body positioning required to make the blocky side-pulls more positive. gets hard at the 3ard bolt and doesn't really let up till the 2and to last draw. there is also a kneerbar option just above the 3ard draw at the first roof. seems like there are usually fixed draws on it as well as anchor beiners.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Bingo Baby : The Beckoning Call (5.12a)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun and soft af 12a, hard moves at the 3ard bolt and giant jugs to the top. i'm 5.8 and had no trouble clipping the anchors, grab the jug on the left and stretch.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Bingo Baby : If I only Had a Brain (5.12b)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Aug 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome, awesome af climb. start with a boulder problem and stay right, make the 3ard and surf through jugs, till you come to a nice juggy rest with a bolt at eye level, make a throw right hand to a slopey arete. then move left on some more challenging holds.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Teeanova (5.12a)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Jul 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Solid 12a, just milk the 2 good rests and you will send, before the last roof move way right to a perfect ledge with a nice jug that looks like an ear.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Juggernaut Roof (5.12b/c)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Jul 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: When you try to belay from the ground, it really feels like there's to much rope drag to clip, even if you un clip the anchors after the first clip. I would recommend belaying from he top of juggernaut
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : The Abyss (5.12c/d)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Jul 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It would be nice if whoever stole my top draws on this would give them back, I left three on the bolts after deep end breaks off. the disappeared about a week ago and I only had them up for maybe 2 before.
|
Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Psalm 32 (5.12a/b A0)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Jul 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has there still not been a free accent?
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - The Pile : Dog Pile (5.10b)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Jul 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: even if you have done this millions of times I still think its more like 10d
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - The Pile : Pile Surgery (5.12a)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Jul 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: pretty fun link up, cool moves through the traverse
|
Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : The Hitchhiker (5.11c)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Jul 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with the first comment. I decided to try this to save some energy on semi rest day, this things is crux after crux and trying to gun through it is burly. compared to other routes in maple of this grade, hitchhiker is way harder, maybe i have no endurance though.
|
Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sanctuary : Genesis (5.12a)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Jul 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is so sick! Pretty easy jugs to a cruxy, intimidating face.
|
Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Box Canyon : Ammo Dump Wall : Maple Pickles (5.11a/b)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Jul 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is super slippery watch out, also beware of pigeons!
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - New Cliche : New Cliche (5.12c/d)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Jul 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun route! the crux for me was figuring out how to make the clip just before the anchors, couldn't find decent feet. Also the fixed draw at the crux clip[ is getting a little sketchy, make sure the gate closes.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Big in Japan (5.12b)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Jun 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is classic Big ish and its not that greasy or dangerous give it a quick brush and send
|
Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Chiang Mai
By: Cowboy Roy When: Jun 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Write up love the sustainable water part
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden
By: Cowboy Roy When: Oct 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: anyone have any info on the fixed routes ?
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard : This Must Be The Pickle (5.12d)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Aug 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: the fixed draws at the crux are getting very worn
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Stone Ground (5.11b)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Aug 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Think its hard for short climbers... great route though, don't blow the second clip
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - Lower : Black Monday (5.11a)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Aug 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic, good to spin laps on
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : S-Curve - The Pile : Right Pile (5.11d)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Aug 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun climb to go get a burn on just move fast she's pumpy
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Highlander : The Highlander (5.12a)
By: Cowboy Roy When: Aug 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun route packs a good burn for such a short route, the lose foothold mentioned in previous posts is still there. definitely super loose and big enough to be a concern. put a long sling up for the crux clip
|
RSS Feed
