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Location: OR : North Eastern Oregon
By: corvegas When: Aug 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Okay Allen
Guideline #1 first off dont be a jerk by saying I don't have any pertinent information. I have added more to this site than a lot of other people and I try and do it right the first time.
Guideline #2 at the time of my posting you had done nothing more than to post that you know the areas out there
Guideline #3 I dont give a shit because I'm sick of people slacking off when they post stuff... How else is anyone going to get the message. Sorry if you did plan to up... more >>
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face
By: corvegas When: Aug 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: PLW not steep enough? ever been up bubbas in bondage?
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Location: OR : North Eastern Oregon
By: corvegas When: Aug 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: make an effort when you post something new... this has to be the worst addition ever! theres a million places to climb in "eastern oregon"
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Location: OR : Depoe Bay Viewpoint Cliffs : Bolted Anchors (5.8)
By: corvegas When: Jul 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: kip-
next time you place bolts in such conditions i highly suggest you use titanium gluein bolts. ushba sells them. even stainless bolts corrode rapidly in such an environment. those will probably become timebomb in no time if they are exposed to as much water as it sounds.
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Location: OR : Bulo Point
By: corvegas When: Jul 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: add some routes?
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Location: OR : Canyon Creek : Dean Fry Memorial Route (5.7)
By: corvegas When: Jul 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: who the fuck bolted this?!?!!? its a memorial route!! who places bolts where they will be under water for 1/3 of the year anyways!
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Location: OR : Depoe Bay Viewpoint Cliffs : Bolted Anchors (5.8)
By: corvegas When: Jun 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: what type of bolts did you use?
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Irreverence (5.10a)
By: corvegas When: Mar 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route now has its own finish.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Marsupials : Koala Rock : Round River (5.4)
By: corvegas When: Mar 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Link P1 and P2 with 60m to the nice belay ledge. Carry mabey 1 or 2 thin peices for the runout on P2, and mabey 1 or 2 larger peices for the last pitch.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Staender Ridge : Bettes Needle : Limestone Chimney (5.4)
By: corvegas When: Feb 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: i replaced all the rappel anchors on this route in oct of 2006
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Four Horsemen : John Galt Line (5.11a/b)
By: corvegas When: Feb 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I belive the FA was done by Eric Wolfe
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Marsupials : Mud Pile : Carla The Stripper (5.8)
By: corvegas When: Feb 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: for some reason i think that this routes name is carla the stripper. someone correct me if im wrong.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : The North Face (5.12a)
By: corvegas When: Feb 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: the fa was done by dean caldwell and joe kindler in 1967 via the bolt ladder, then in 1968 tom bauman and bob ashworth did the regular start. alan lester really got the FFA via the bolt ladder in 1983, alan watts didnt free the line till 1985 but via the regular line.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Marsupials : Brogan Spire : Cave Route (5.6 X)
By: corvegas When: Feb 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: More like 5.6R definatly not X any more. Fully bolted to the final 5.4 summit moves.
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Location: PDub-Trad : Pics : Photo
By: corvegas When: Feb 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: where is this?
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Location: OR : Portland Buildering
By: corvegas When: Feb 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: No offense but, this is mountain project. Not building project. I strongly feel that this page should be removed as it has absolutly nothing to do with what this site was intended to do. Mabey there is a better site to post stuff about building climbing. Sorry if I come off as harsh, I just think that this stuff should be left to our imaginations, not to be posted on a rockclimbing beta site.
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Location: OR : Eagle Creek
By: corvegas When: Dec 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why do you bother posting it if you dont include directions. Pretty sweet! We all have secret crags but we dont neet to brag about them. This is a website for usefull information. Not for spray lords and beta hoards.
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Location: OR : The Garden : The Garden : Garden Groove (5.10a)
By: corvegas When: Sep 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Peter-
Some people added some useless top rope anchors on problems that had been done with out them. I imagine this is what you saw, those bolts have since been chopped. On this route Matt ???? had added TR anchors years ago but, never did anything with it as it was too dirty. 2 years ago we started cleaning it and cleaned the hell out of it, I decided to add a bolt to the upper unprotectable part, I tryed to protect with beaks but they where tipped out and ripped. This climb is very worthy of... more >>
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Location: OR : The Garden : The Garden : Garden Groove (5.10a)
By: corvegas When: Aug 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any one else done this with all the traffic there now, and how clean it is it seems like someone else may have led it?
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Picnic Lunch Wall : Suicidal Tendencies (5.11d PG13)
By: corvegas When: Jun 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route was put up on lead, well after rap bolting had taken over smith
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Marsupials : Brogan Spire
By: corvegas When: May 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's not really Beth Rodden's new 5.14. That climb is actually called The Great Roof, which was climbed on aid in 1966 with many fewer bolts. Ethics at Smith were lost and bolts were added, not by Beth. This brought down the adventure level of a route that could be enjoyed by more people, still into the art of placing protection. Those bolts should be chopped. It should be freed when the natural protection readily available on that climb is used.
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Location: OR : The Garden
By: corvegas When: Apr 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area is on private land be respectful. Place bolts by hand, dont leave fixed ropes. As of 4/10 ago someone had left their rope fixed in the main area for a while. If your cleaning, at least clean your rope when you leave.
Also dont place bolts where they dont need to be, they will probably wind up getting chopped.
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