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Colonel Mustard


Member Since: Sep 13, 2005
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 477
Total Points: 1,367
Last Year: 51
Last 30 Days: 8
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Colonel Mustard been climbing?










Contributions


All 2787 | Routes 74 | Areas 11 | Photos 38 | Page Improvements | Comments 272 | Posts 1230 | Stars 1076 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Sinbad-Herbert (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: Dylan, I approached it via the chossy gully to the left of the 1st pitch anchors. You go up about 10-15' where there are large dikes to traverse on the climb and go up a bit more to the first bolt, probably 15'-20' above the belay. I placed a #3 in the choss above the anchor for a jebus nut, but not sure how well that would have held. It's easy climbing, and that first bolt is probably where it is due to the exfoliating nature of the start. Fortunately, that is the only crap rock on the cl... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Absolutely Brilliant (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: My partner and I led this. The climbing is superb. There is some green-ness about the route with some pebble exfoliation, but all the feet and hands seemed to be staying put.

The problem with both in the party leading is the clean up. I would highly recommend somebody TR it to clean because I lowered off the chains and the resultant sawing of the rope across dikes was not a warm fuzzy situation. The climb is well left of the anchors so you are swinging back and forth... Not fun.

Additionally, ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Sinbad-Herbert (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 9, 2015

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Comments: I found the nipple hold on the second pitch crux arousing but unnecessary to upward progress. Cool, technical climbing that should get done more often (judging by the ticks here). Leave your rack at the pitch one anchors, take your draws, and cast off. As noted, a 70m rope leaves plenty for a rap to the pitch one anchors.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: Recently, with an 80m rope, no simuling, we pitched out the climb thus (using Supertopo version):

1; 2-4; 5 (3rd class scramble); 6-7; 8-9; 10; 11-12.5; 12.5-top

The pitch 3 belay is known as an ant-infested spot, so climb through.

Combined with The Moratorium, it is an excellent and strenuous day. At a fairly relaxed pace, we started climbing at 7:30am on The Moratorium and topped out around 5:00pm on EB. The crux of the ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : West Shore : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Creek Cliff : The Poop Chute (5.5)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: I'll have to power up the poop chute next time I'm at Eagle Creek Cliffs.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Horseshoe Canyon : Human Oddity (5.12a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Mar 4, 2015

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Comments: Have you climbed them all, Vlad? If not, bold assessment, my friend. Although, I do have to hand it to you for rating what you call the best route at the quarry only two stars.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Road Cut, The : Totem Pole (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Almost all of Totem Pole/Totem Pile has recently collapsed during wet conditions. The whole upper "totem pole" feature collapsed onto the road. RIP, Totem Pole, you were well loved by the climbers who knew you.

Now, who's up for the FA of "Totem Hole"?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Twin Towers : Stairway to Heaven (5.11a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Exposure right off the belay to technical, sustained climbing with what I thought were four distinct cruxes in all. What's not to like? Despite the choss factor, the adventure factor along with quality climbing movement place this route as well worth a little effort to get on.

The cruxes aren't of the French Free variety, you will have to suck it up and climb. My thoughts on the difficulty of this climb is that it is well sandbagged at 5.11a. Perhaps repeated viewings yield the easier grade, a... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jan 30, 2015

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Comments: Cool, man! It's a bit on you because of graininess as well. It definitely doesn't get as many ascents as you'd think a fun hand crack in plain view would get.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Cosumnes River Gorge : Gutenberger Wall : Lichen Us (5.9)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Agreed with Ryan ^^^, the bolts are... interesting in sections, but I think most everything is safe enough. Bring the rack to supplement bolts, maybe just a single set to 1" on Lichen Us itself.

A 70m rope will see you to the base of Gutenberger from the topmost anchors (you rap a different route). It was a circuitous rap in our instance, but it is possible and belay stations are readily picked out on the way down. Attempting this in the dark without knowing where the rap stations are, however... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Twin Towers : Release the Lions (5.11c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: You usually have to pay for a pump this good. Easily the best route I've yet tried at the Auburn Cliffs (including Human Oddity).


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Wreckage Wall : Howler Monkey (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: Not one I'd repeat often, but the onsight excitement was well worth the price of admission. Obligatory, post crux howls were emitted.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Snowshed Wall : Little Feat (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: This is a rewarding lead indeed!

One of my Donner Pass face climbing favorites. Watch that second clip!

I will honor the original rating while knowing better in my heart.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Snowshed Wall : The Thing (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: Direct variation: Harder moves than Peter Principle.

Overall, the climb is probably as sustained as Peter Principle, and more pumpy in nature. Also, we were unable to find the 5.10c version of this climb. Coming in from the right seems harder than the direct variation. Is this an old sand bag, or are we missing some key beta on the sloper traverse?

The direct variation protects pretty well, though there will be a run out (that appears safe) from pulling the bulge to the hand jams above the sl... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Black Wall : Slipstream (5.11a/b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jul 4, 2014

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Comments: Sometimes offset fingers were the cam to rock but largely .75" and smaller of any variety will see you through. With the exception of the 3" behind the flake/pod, of course.

Very cool flaring crack lie backs with an emphasis on footwork. I will be back for the rp. This climb should get tried more, it is quality. Looking forward to trying more of The Imaginary Voyage soon!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Crystal Springs Canyon : ... : Strangle Hold (5.11+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 28, 2014

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Comments: Welcome to the one hang TR downgrade, son!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : West Wall : Vanishing Point (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: If you scrambled up to the base of the climb, the first pitch can be TRd or rapped with a 70m. Probably the first two pitches can be rapped in two with a 70m.

For one reason or another we only did the first pitch, but what a pitch it is. It felt like a bit of Yosemite at the the Leap with some of the tastiest wide climbing I have climbed in Tahoe. It is a complete head scratcher this thing isn't as popular as Hospital Corner and the like.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Snowshed Wall : Missing Mind (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: This climb deserves more travel, it will not disappoint Snowshed arÍte afficianados.

Invigorating moves above bolts, crimps, slopers, and an exciting mantle, oh my!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : ... : Numb Bunion (5.10+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: A #4 camalot was the perfect first piece in the obvious, large pod where the crack climbing begins.

In terms of rock quality and difficulty, this climb is up there with The Fracture at Sugarloaf for me. Once spied, this line needs to be climbed.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : ... : 2nd Tier
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: It didn't seem bad in the loose department. Yeah, no chains needed for the fat hangers.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Road Cut, The : Totem Pole (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: This route and ones right of it are closed for nesting falcons, per a sign posted at the base by The Access Fund.. Sign seen on 4/21/14, unsure when this will be lifted. Please respect the closure. Thanks.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Black Wall : Pinball Junkie (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: The crack is of the jam when you have to, escape to face climbing when you can variety.

The crux is... mysterious. There seems to be at least three ways of doing it and they are all hard to transition into. This climb is at least 5.10d.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : ... : The Hand of God (5.11+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, that all makes sense. I need to climb it again when I get back there! The last two pitches are some of the best I've climbed at woodfords.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : ... : The Hand of God (5.11+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: I mostly agree with your assessment, Sal, but would still hesitate to call the first pitch straightforward (not sure where "drama" comes in). Maybe we cleaned some of the crumble off on our ascent, or maybe you just handle it better. That is what I meant by "testy". Maybe "tenuous" would have seemed less dramatic wording to you? Ball bearing-like crumble I found certainly qualified as tenuous to me anyway!

I mostly went with (I believe) Dan K's grades since he's doing the guidebook, with the ex... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : TM's Deviation (5.9+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: The #5 C4 Camalot was clutch at the crux. Couldn't get a #6 in that spot and a #4 would be waaaay back there. It makes the crux light psychologically, but the moves took some sussing. Definitely my favorite wide crack at the Loaf so far!

I didn't bring/place enough slingage and I ran into heinous, almost deal breaking rope drag at the top of the 2nd pitch. The climb may be a little tricky that way? I've talked to somebody who apparently breaks it into three pitches, and that m... more >>


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