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Rock Climbing Photo: Colonel Mustard


Member Since: Sep 13, 2005
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 505
Total Points: 1,436
Last Year: 74
Last 30 Days: 1
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Colonel Mustard been climbing?










Contributions


All 3021 | Routes 75 | Areas 11 | Photos 43 | Page Improvements | Comments 306 | Posts 1348 | Stars 1150 | Ratings 88
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : 01 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jul 16, 2016

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Comments: Venturi Effect anchors from Red Dihedral is standard? For Positive Vibrations, that is the case, but I'll be a summit endorsing ass pimple and say that if you're doing Red Dihedral, the birthing canal pitch to the summit register is well worth doing. It's not that bad to descend via the single rap and talus scramble down the south gully. It's also fairly in line with the rest of the route compared to two pitches of t... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Psychedelic Tree (5.9)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: I was going to say that this route is just a smidgen less good than it's more famous eponymous neighbor (The Line), but that's not true. It's better. You don't have the line of folks lining up for The Line on this one.

It looks a bit mungy from the start, but the small flora and some moss don't actually impact where the climbing is at. But, sure if you like your climbs shaved bare, I can underst... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Dear John Buttress : Tag Team (5.10a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: The climbing is not awful and is actually interesting, but there's a rope eating crack at the end of the traverse out of that roof that would seem to require more protection engineering than this route is really worth.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : OJ Buttress : Cheesy Puff (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: I was told by one of the FA's this was 5.9! Sandbagged again!

A high speed video of me dancing onto and off the crux from the ledge would be highly amusing. That was a solid 15-20 minutes of whining.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : OJ Buttress : White Bronco (5.11a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: Like that infamous news day, the White Bronco proved to be an exciting diversion.

The start gave me an adrenaline goose that kept on giving all the way up this climb, which is fairly sustained and thoughtful all the way to the anchors.

I'm hesitant taking the 5.11b onsight on this rig, I think the grade may be more in the 5.10d to 5.11a range but that will await consensus. Honestly, I was so worked up for the initial roof moves, I couldn't be relied on for an accurate grade.

A couple small/me... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : OJ Buttress : Slow Speed Chase (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: Regarding pitch 1 only, I didn't move left around the corner at the bulge for the more oblique/easier approach. It was, ah, how do you say, direct? Direttisimo? My tunnel vision added some oomph but it was sorta fun this way with some stemming and sloper sidepull mojo. The patina of the rock is very interesting, Mr. Wolfe was kind of enough to explain that it was probably a deposit of limestone seeping onto and covering the rock. It takes a minute to get used to this change i... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Break it Out (5.9+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: I may need to amend the anchor situation I posted in the description if nobody fills me in, but I just climbed this yesterday and we didn't find the anchors this time (I followed). So either they have been yanked or we just suck. I can say that there are anchors to the right for Ice Pirates (not a good option at all - actually directly level with and to the right of where you do the final mantle) and Black Magic (a better option but you really need to protect from the pendulum) but you ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Black Magic (5.10a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: The pins may have pulled, I didn't see them. Very cool stem climbing on Tuolomne-esque pebbles with some jamming thrown in. It is hard to tell from below but it protects very well with small cams in the dihedral.

I came out a little moss sprinkled at the end, but besides a little seep at the bottom, this line climbs great. Overall this North Star Wall area is deserving of more traffic from the 5.10 leader and boasts fun to classic climbs.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Black Hole Sun (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Weird.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Old And In The Way (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: This crag breeds rating squabbles like a hydra sprouts heads, and I'm afraid I'll add my 0.02 to the boredom. The start feels like 5.11+ to this fat boy. Far harder movement than anything encountered on Beast of Burden. Of course, if you're a crimp happy featherweight, I could see how it feels trivial. Yes, I can think of some 5.11- climbs with moves as hard, but we generally agree to call those sandbags.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : The Blocks : Blue Note (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: I could maybe see a letter grade or two adjustment, but this is simply not a 5.11 anything. How do I know, you ask? I onsighted it.

Those 1/4" button heads up to the fifth bolt (which is upgraded hardware) lent a little urgency to my lead. When I got the third button head clipped, I felt good because I thought "hey, both won't pull... right?" (you would deck from the 2nd).

Patina crimping, high foot rock overs, and some traversing into a bit o' knob heaven... Not a bad climb!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Thanksgiving (5.10a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: We thought the upper crux was comparable in difficulty to the lower crux. Either way, this is very enjoyable climbing with thoughtful knob climbing and jams and two bolts right where they are needed. One of the larger RPs slotted perfectly in the high laser thin crack, otherwise, pro beta of fingers-sized cams to #1 camalot with a single #3 camalot suffices nicely. Plenty of stopper placements.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Feb 2, 2016

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Comments: How much for the pair?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : The Mini-Illusion (5.12b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: A single #2 camalot works just fine.


Location: South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Arco Iris : Positive Affect (5.12a) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: Holy crap, that's some immaculate looking stone. Second it looking like a glacier, I thought it was ice at first glance. Wow!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Sacherer Cracker (5.10a) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: Duh mange, mang!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar Direct (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: If you hit a piton, you have bypassed (I believe) what is the most popular option, which is to climb just under the roof, traverse right, and then pull the steepest moves into the #1 size hand crack. The left variation that bypasses this below-the-roof traverse is probably a skosh easier than the variation I outlined. But whatever floats your dingy.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: Rack shaming is a form of bullying.


Location: Jon Ruland : Me : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: You filthy little minx, of course I'll meatdeck your boyfriend and make out with you.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Foreshortening. Look it up, geniuses.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn SRA : Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua...
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: To echo Brennen, I saw a car in the $10 pay lot had been broken into yesterday. Driver's side window completely shattered. Part of the problem it seems is that the pay lot is largely out of sight from the busy 49, so thieves are relatively protected while they do their dirty little deeds.

Pay to play and get robbed, it seems. I'd park out on the 49, at least there is traffic streaming by so that these thieving cockroaches have to do their scuttling out in the open.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn SRA : Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : ... : Human Oddity (5.11d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: Currently, at least the washers on the first three bolts I sampled appear to be sporting rust. I down climbed from the crux bolt (which also has a quick link placed on it - not mine) because it was also spinning in addition to the rust coat on the washer. I didn't have a wrench handy (lotsa spinners at Auburn yesterday for some reason) and didn't want to brave the more difficult section with an uninspiring anchor situation. Tightened down, it's probably good, though the rusting washers beg a few... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Woodfords Canyon Boulders
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Ron(g), I hope you exhibit more good sportsmanship in your other outdoor pursuits than you do here. It is clear nothing much has changed about Woodfords other than you now are a hater of the tribe you once belonged to. Your contributions have entered the public sphere, you don't get to just take your toys and go home now that you quit. Believe it or not, I respect the work you have done, I am sorry your life brings you to this dim view of others who also love the same pursuit you once did.

Mayb... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: As a party wall, two two-man team of maggots, we got up this thing rapidly after a crack of noon start, which, I think, is a major bonus of the Pine Crick style.

Pitch 2 felt head's up (what do I know, I just followed it).

The pitch 3 crux felt very manageable, though I hit a portable foothold and blew it. It's a very cool opposing crimp seam that would absolutely bludgeon you were it angled any higher than a dummy dome.

There's some cool stuff in between, but the character of the last two p... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : PBR Street Gang (5.9+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: The roof pitch crux seems about as hard as anything else on the route, it just looks intimidating as all get out. It definitely ranks up there as one of the hardest looking moderate things I've climbed in a while. It seemed simply like 5.9? There's a second before I turned it around from the establishing jams and realized I was on an easy lieback slab section that I thought maybe it was as hard as advertised. But no.

Delightful.


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