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Colonel Mustard


Member Since: Sep 13, 2005
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 428
Total Points: 1,313
Last Year: 178
Last 30 Days: 2
11 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (2556) | Routes (71) | Areas (11) | Photos (37) | Comments (253) | Posts (1124) | Stars (978) | Ratings (82)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Wood Hood : The Hand of God (5.11+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, that all makes sense. I need to climb it again when I get back there! The last two pitches are some of the best I've climbed at woodfords.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Wood Hood : The Hand of God (5.11+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: I mostly agree with your assessment, Sal, but would still hesitate to call the first pitch straightforward (not sure where "drama" comes in). Maybe we cleaned some of the crumble off on our ascent, or maybe you just handle it better. That is what I meant by "testy". Maybe "tenuous" would have seemed less dramatic wording to you? Ball bearing-like crumble I found certainly qualified as tenuous to me anyway!

I mostly went with (I believe) Dan K's grades since he's doing the guidebook, with the ex... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : TM's Deviation (5.9+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: The #5 C4 Camalot was clutch at the crux. Couldn't get a #6 in that spot and a #4 would be waaaay back there. It makes the crux light psychologically, but the moves took some sussing. Definitely my favorite wide crack at the Loaf so far!

I didn't bring/place enough slingage and I ran into heinous, almost deal breaking rope drag at the top of the 2nd pitch. The climb may be a little tricky that way? I've talked to somebody who apparently breaks it into three pitches, and that m... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Road Cut, The : Totem Pole (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: Fortunately.


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : River Rock - Upstream Crag : FM a.k.a. F*%K Me (5.10)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: My apologies, you rated it the mysterious grade of onsight 5.11. Jackson is right though, this is in no way part of the 5.11 family. I onsighted this while shit faced. Then I top roped it clean in running shoes right after. Pretty sure that wouldn't have been the case on anything close to the grade you claim.

As a head's up, people nowadays usually rate something "5.11" if it is in the solid, harder end of the range. On this site, for instance, "5.11" is between 5.11b and 5.11c when rating a cl... more >>


Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : River Rock - Upstream Crag : FM a.k.a. F*%K Me (5.10)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: Yup, Ron Anderson claims 'er. Rated it 5.11c instead of what I thought was 5.10c? Dunno who placed the anchors or when.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Monkey Flower (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jan 11, 2014

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Comments: My partner and I agreed, this is a high quality addition to the Loaf. Micro cams for the initial seam, then placed a yellow/green offset alien and yellow offset nut at the horizontal break just after the second bolt (a number two or three camalot may work in the larger pod). A number one camalot fit behind the route's one detracting feature in a rotten flake (perhaps placing one more bolt would be in order to avoid this potential hazard?).

Thoughtful face climbing with interesting balance moves... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : The Man Who Fell to Earth (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: A finger-sized piece before the mantle seems warranted. Tricky, fun climbing.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Wood Hood : The Hand of God (5.11+) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: Screw the climbing, this is an EXCELLENT photo of a Petzl Ange draw! [/salivate]


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Igor Unchained (5.9+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: The Needles Novitiate Climbs

Twas' not unchained by Igor
nor slipped upon Thin Ice
Fancy Free went with ease
And Airy was just as nice


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Candyland (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: As long as you didn't pinch a loaf.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Road Cut, The : Totem Pole (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: The piton was replaced by a bolt, only some twisted iron remains. Two fixed draws. Glad it was retroed, since it's an awesome sport line.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Great Red Book Rock : Great Red Book (5.8) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: For the record, JW, that's a pretty simplistic misreading. One could argue that it's willful even. I guess it's a convenient - if completely baffling - sidestep.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Aaaaaaand I'll never do that route.

Well, maybe.

Sweet Jesus!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Mole's Corner (5.8)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: A stubby specimen. The ladies wish it were longer. Not very taxing with good technique (i.e. a minimum of liebacking), but pretty fun after a bit of Morse code.

BTW: Those huge, thick ass metolius hangers are what you rap off. I wouldn't lower but a rap is fine through those.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Ha. Poor Tyson left hanging. That is not really a three-person belay ledge.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: Amazing! 5 star Cali Dude-style alpinism.

It's truly in range of the 5.10+ trad leader who has the endurance for pitch after pitch of 5.10.

Two things: Sometimes those rope stretcher pitches really leave you lacking the requisite pieces. Budget accordingly, or split the pitch up.

Rope drag on the 6th pitch can be truly heinous. I would sling everything long under the roof next time.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Space Wall : Made in Japan (5.11a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Holy cow! Way fun sport climbing. More like the interesting face sections on a trad climb condensed into one route.

For a Donner-centric comparison, I think that Little Feat at Snowshed Wall (graded 5.10d with a big smirk) is harder than this, but I'll take the onsight ego fluff this climb gave me every day of the week ;).


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Space Wall : Dark Side Of The Moon (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: Pretty fun. It could clean up a little more, but I'm having a hard time thinking of another Donner 5.10- that is quite like it. It's basically an open book with awesome stemming on Tuolumne-like, knob studded rock, to an invigorating, albeit, slightly awkward, exit to the anchors.

It's pretty heavy on fingers to 1", I'd say. I don't remember placing anything larger.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Space Wall : Kwijibo (5.11a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: A finger-sized piece between bolts one and two may make you feel warm and cuddly. There are some moves to the second bolt and a huge ankle-tester of a ledge below.

Otherwise, it's a fun, slightly awkward route with a fair bit of crimping involved. Exfoliated my finger tips, anyway.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Southside Crags : The Upper Crystal Springs ... : ... : Regular Route (5.10a PG13)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jul 4, 2013

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Comments: There's only one pitch of really good climbing on this one, but the high grade byproduct of climbing this route is a stellar hangout way up in a Woodfords gully overlooking The Fortress area across the canyon.

For a fun diversion at the top of the second pitch, head right and over the lip instead of scrambling up the trivial left-trending ramp/hand crack to finish. From here anchor in at an angled ledge boasting some metolius hangers underneath a roof and set off on a 5.11d/5.12a fingers to rid... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Peanut Gallery, The : Middle Ages (5.8)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: The second pitch: Continue straight up from first pitch on a ledge to some mantles to an angled ledge all the while while aiming for the obvious crack. You are now facing a pull over a bulge with undercut knob feet, small incuts for hands, and a single point of protection to avoid a ledge deck and that you really, really, really hope will hold (and that you probably only have in the first place if your tall-ish and can place it: yellow metolius mastercam). Yeah. Totally 5.8, baby ;). Y... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : One Of These Days Buttress : Bush League (5.10a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 31, 2013

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Comments: Honestly, there were times when I felt like the climb was faking it, but I appreciated the effort.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Temple Crag : Dark Star (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Dec 8, 2012

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Comments: Not sure on the grade ratings in the above description, they seem a bit sandbagged. It generally seems correct otherwise, although I doubt any two parties have gone exactly the same way on the climb after the first buttress.

We linked in 400' of simul climbing on the apron of the first buttress leading to the official 1st pitch start instead of walking up and around. Largely, the climbing there was 4th, low 5th class, with maybe a move of 5.7 here and there. The start we chose had a piton marki... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Potato Patch : ... : Bucket Brigade (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Dec 2, 2012

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Comments: The juggy finish is pretty fun. The start is good for keeping your attention, if not quality-wise.


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