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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Slander Sector : All Washed Up (5.11d)
By: Colin Parker When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was a battle for me. The climbing is very continuous and it is often difficult to determine what the correct sequence is. I sometimes used holds on the right-hand arete, but figured that anything further over was off route [and caked in dirt]. I would not recommend this route to climbers breaking into this grade.
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Right of the Roof : Maximizer (5.11d)
By: Colin Parker When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I put this as 5.11d per the guidebook, but at six feet I didn't feel that any of the moves were over 5.11c. On the roof, however, I was able to reach the nice rail on the right while still holding the big sidepull with my left. If I had maybe 4 inches less wingspan, this wouldn't have been possible and I would have had to put both hands on those awful crimps... so for some this will likely be the 11d crux.
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Slander Sector : Babyface (5.10c)
By: Colin Parker When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This route seemed to consist of 25 feet of enjoyable face followed by 5.6 climbing the rest of the way to the anchors. Probably one to skip unless all the 10's in the areas further left are taken.
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Slander Sector : Defamation (5.11c)
By: Colin Parker When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route today. I totally agree with Chris's description. The only thing I'll add is that I think the bottom crux is 5.11d. We climbed two 5.11d's today along with this one. The crux on this route was harder than any move on the other two 5.11d's and was almost as hard as the lower crux of Slander Magnet 5.12a/b nearby. As Chris mentions, the rest of the route is easier, but still enjoyable, especially the finish.
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : Slab City (Right Side) : Pity Committee (5.11a)
By: Colin Parker When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is probably my favorite in Slab City. It starts crimpy, moves into a powerful roof, and then finishes on enjoyable, balancy slab up top. It's a nice long route and varied. I climbed it alongside Shattered Dreams, Goody Two Shoes and some 10d just left of Synchronicity [Gulp Swallow perhaps, but wasn't trad and didn't match the description in the book?]. Anyway, this one was easily the best of the four.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : Right On (5.5)
By: Colin Parker When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this thing yesterday. Was hoping to get some longer multi-pitch experience to prepare for Tahquitz. This fit the bill perfectly. I would say that Mark's comments are dead-on. The only thing I would add is that his description of the fourth pitch seems to avoid the exposed slab finish, which nobody should miss. After leaving the crack system and moving left on the 4th pitch: instead of heading for and belaying in the notch with the bolder, you should continue up the face past horizontals ... more >>
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Right of the Roof : Power Play (5.10b)
By: Colin Parker When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ah, I guess I must have thought that Maximizer was Double-Whammy then.
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Right of the Roof : Power Play (5.10b)
By: Colin Parker When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's the name and grade of the extension of this route. I found the anchors with chains that Chris mentions, but then continued up another six or seven bolts, past a roof with a few jams in a crack on the left. If I were to guess, I'd say it was 15 bolts, 5.11b/c. It was a ton of fun, and quite a bit left of double whammy.
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : Slab City (Right Side) : Utopia (5.10c)
By: Colin Parker When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The moves to the 5th bolt are a bit scary since you're a ways above #4. I think this route is top notch, and a rare liebacking gem at the quarry.
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : Slab City (Left Side) : Mantle Marathon (5.10a)
By: Colin Parker When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great fun, and a good warmup. My girlfriend at 5'0" only had trouble on the top mantle. Enjoy!
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : X Files (5.10c)
By: Colin Parker When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Kraig. This route was great for a quick burn! The sharp holds aren't that sharp, and the REALLY sharp holds can be avoided without making the route harder.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : Nipple Denial Syndrome (5.11a/b)
By: Colin Parker When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sent this on top-rope on Saturday. The crux definitely felt like a v3 boulder problem, for sure. 5.11b/c
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Bird on a Wire (5.10a)
By: Colin Parker When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route! Climbed this route for the first time on Saturday. We belayed about ten feet below the two bolts using gear in a pair of cracks and standing on a small ledge, somewhat uncomfortably, but very tolerable. Doing it this way, having two bolts seemed unnecessary, and none of the crux moves felt poorly protected or runout. We made the second pitch very long (~170 feet), and the third pitch was only about 40 feet. It may have been easier to combine them, but by that point the wind was ma... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : The Swift (5.7)
By: Colin Parker When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route on Saturday for the first time. I don't think that route finding is an issue at all (where to move onto the arete is somewhat obvious) but there are numerous places that you can belay from for each of the pitches. I personally felt that the only redeeming 5.7 climbing was the short crux on pitch three. The rest of the climb felt a bit too broken and easy 5th class to me. That said, it's easily protectable and long, so probably a good choice for folks just getting comfortable a... more >>
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Right of the Roof : Wonderstuff (5.10c)
By: Colin Parker When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If I'm not mistaken, that undercling is now gone. There's a mark in chalk that reads 'Bad X' and underneath that, the word 'Fine' is written, perhaps where the flake used to be. Anyway, this climb was a gem. The layback about halfway up is totally pure and great fun. It's a pity it's not longer, but I definitely recommend it as a warmup!
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Right of the Roof : Tangerine Dream (5.11a)
By: Colin Parker When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Totally amazing climb. First lead at 5.11a. Had to climb it again at the end of the day to retrieve my gear after my friends couldn't finish it off. That top crux is tough! I think that last bolt is a bit sketchy to clip for shorter folks, but at 6', I didn't have any issues.
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Right of the Roof : Grooverider (5.10c)
By: Colin Parker When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climbing up the pillar at first takes you into a sketchy section of looser rock above the second bolt. As of June 7th, this section still needs a bit of clean-up, especially on the left hand side. If you stick with the lie-back on the right, you should be ok. A lot of the larger blocks in this area seem very precarious, and I was a bit spooked by the one block which has a bolt and a chain securing it to the main wall. Is that really gonna hold anything? I figure that the first ascent party p... more >>
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Right of the Roof : Emphysema (5.10b)
By: Colin Parker When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tackled this route on lead towards the end of the day. Loved the crux sequence. It's very difficult to nail on your first try without advance beta, so I'll avoid spoiling the fun ;) Another gem among the shorter routes that certainly deserves your attention. Watch out for the bats nesting in the large flake right below the anchor. They squeeked at me the whole time I was up there, but I kept my distance.
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Left of the Roof : Flexercise (5.10b)
By: Colin Parker When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My first ever climb at Riverside Quarry. Found this to be a terrific warm-up since it is relatively long, moderate, consistent, and yet populated with two or three good rest spots. Great Climb!
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Photo
By: Colin Parker When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is that Ceuse? ;)
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Left Sid... : Leap Erickson (5.10b)
By: Colin Parker When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is very quality and sustained for a 10b lead. The first crux involves a side-pull on the edge of a seam next to the first bolt. Highstepping and smearing are helpful here. After a short easy section between bolts 2 and 3, the climbing remains sustained at 10b all the way to the top. imo, 3 stars out of 5.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Trashcan Rock : Cranny (5.8)
By: Colin Parker When: May 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way more fun than I expected for such a short route! First 5.8 lead.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Zippy Rock : Gargoyle (5.6)
By: Colin Parker When: May 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Took my first ever trad fall on this one last year. Beginner mistake, tried to use the face for feet instead of squeezing them in the crack. Anyway, good hand crack and solid practice. Recommended if you're a beginner or in the area.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mindless Mound : Rainy Day Women (5.7)
By: Colin Parker When: May 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also not a very good route, although its nice on colder days since it faces south. The crux is definitely the flaring crack section, which will make you look around for good holds on the face. In general, I would avoid this formation for good routes elsewhere.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mindless Mound : Maggie's Farm (5.7)
By: Colin Parker When: May 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb isn't terribly good imo. Most of it is too easy to place gear and the crux section isn't terribly interesting. Surprised it made it into the 'Trad Guide'. I think I put two cams in maybe...
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