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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Gravity Bong (5.13a)
By: Colin Moorhead When: Sep 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Repeat attempts by several very capable locals have upgraded the crux to .13a. Both these guys have actually redpointed the pitch via Teddy Bears Picnic previously, but were shut down on it on their Gravity Bong ascents, conceding that they are indeed sandbagging SOB's.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Perspective (5.11-)
By: Colin Moorhead When: Jun 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best single pitch .11a in Squamish.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Freeway (5.11c)
By: Colin Moorhead When: May 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Freeway Original Finish. An editorial.
I'd just like to throw my two cents in about the classic finish to Freeway. Over the years I've heard numerous comments detracting from the quality of the original finish saying the Express Lanes are way better (mostly from folks who haven't done the original). Don't get me wrong the Express Lanes offer excellent climbing with superb position, the climbing is well protected and straight forward, once you've pulled the roof pitches you know you've got it i... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Thriller Off the Void (5.11b)
By: Colin Moorhead When: May 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Top roped by Royal Robbins, equipped and led by Dave Lane with two bolts, third lower "chicken bolt" added during retro bolting, this section protected adequately with a medium RP.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Watchman : The Vigil (5.11 R)
By: Colin Moorhead When: May 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found this to be an excellent, adventurous route. Classic in a different way then say Shunes or Monkeyfinger. Some comments to add to the supertopos rather vague description.
Rack Used. Double set of cams from tiny to #4 BD, one #5 and #6 BD, full set of wires including a couple RP's. I really could have used one extra .75 and 4 BD.
Pitch 1. 5.10a, The only pitch I used the 6" cam (it was nice to have)
Pitch 2. 5.9
Pitch 3. 5.10c
Pitch 4&5. 5.10c R, tricky route finding. ... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Miles Of Piles Rock - West ... : Winds of Whoopee (5.11a)
By: Colin Moorhead When: Nov 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Undercling flake at crux will likely break soon, position your belayer out of the line of fire.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Polaris (5.12a)
By: Colin Moorhead When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent, sustained route with a lot of straight in jamming. A nice change from the endless lieback treadmills off other area grade IV's.
Great Job Chris!
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