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 ADVANCED
A well-spent Saturday night. All of the college kids are back, and even so, I had the best seat in Boulder to myself. <br /> <br />Bear Peak, from my front door to front door in just under 4 hours, including riding my bike each way to the trailhead, and 20-30 minutes at the summit.


Member Since: Mar 3, 2006
Last Visit: Jun 14, 2014
Contact Colin Kenneth


Point Rank: # 1,884
Total Points: 303
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Last 30 Days: 0
17 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Colin Kenneth been climbing?










Contributions


All 167 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 53 | Page Improvments | Comments 28 | Posts 39 | Stars 34 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : The Gatekeeper (5.12a)
By: Colin Kenneth When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: This was a really nice bit of climbing. I agree with the above comparison to Andrology. If not for the constant opportunities to rest and really positive holds, I'd call it 12a. But as it stands, if you are expecting the last 20 feet of amped up climbing, you can refuel and prepare for it to wrangle in the difficulty quite a bit. I'd call it the hard end of 11d, because I'm not cool enough to onsight a long 12a like this.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : Witchway Arete (5.9)
By: Colin Kenneth When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: A good warm up to get the fingers working. I brought my mother up to climb with me today, and she managed it pretty well.

The last bit, between the last bolt and the anchors, felt hard for the grade, compared to the rest of the route. With all of these slab routes, the grades are relative to how comfortable you are in your boots. (The top section of this is really the only slabby portion of this route, specifically.) Perhaps I finished the route via Dark Horse?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : Afterlife (5.12c)
By: Colin Kenneth When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: Holy Moley. This route is super fun. I managed to get to the top of it, but my climbing was utterly devoid of any semblance of grace, and I need to track someone down who can give me some input for the top of the slab.

At the top of the slab less than two feet from the roof, there is a decent (matchable) edge with minimal feet and an orange, lichen covered, left-facing edge that I could feel I was about to peel off the wall. I have a hard time believing that hold has stuck around for many othe... more >>


Location: Michael Schneiter : Bolt Drop Test : Photo
By: Colin Kenneth When: Sep 6, 2010

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Comments: It was only damaged because it was loaded in a direction it was not designed for. If it were installed on a vertical wall, the force of the fall would have carried laterally, and not outward.


Location: Michael Schneiter : Bolt Drop Test : Photo
By: Colin Kenneth When: Aug 21, 2010

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Comments: so...I'm not sure if I get the background for this test, but it seems to me, that you went up and basically vandalized this route until what you thought COULD happen, finally did.

All of this, as opposed to just replacing the bolt on the other side of the flake. Then the climb could be left intact, and the bolt could satisfy your safety requirements...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : ... : Photo
By: Colin Kenneth When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: Cool photo. I had to save it and rotate it 180 degrees to figure that out, however. This is one of the majority of instances where rotating the photo doesn't make it look more exposed or overhanging, it just makes it disorienting to look at.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Colin Kenneth When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: I suppose you could always skip the first two pitches by doing Toot as well. Barring a slip though, the start of the first pitch is stable climbing. A person can get a compound fracture from falling 20 inches and landing the wrong way.

Why psyche everyone out with horror stories? If something goes wrong ANYWHERE, it can be bad.

Be safe. Don't focus on the consequences so much that you loose your composure, and then you can just enjoy the climbing.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Colin Kenneth When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: First off...You don't need anything larger than a #3 Camalot. 2 of them is not a terrible idea. There are hardly any placements parallel enough that a #6 would stay in place anyway, the rock kind of undulates. We brought one #4, and I placed it at the first opportunity I could, but there were more solid #3 placements only a few feet higher. At that point, I was completely behind the flake, nowhere to fall, and already 60 feet off the belay. 3 feet is really inconsequentia... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Fish Wall : Have a Blast (5.12a)
By: Colin Kenneth When: May 31, 2010

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Comments: We trundled a large section of puzzle pieced rock on top of/to the right side of the ledge above the 2nd clip. Not sure if if had separated after the winter, I don't recall it being so unstable last time I climbed it, but one little kick on the lower and it all came crashing. It's clean now, and the move up to the third, while still too long to be really reasonable, is at least done with the aide of solid stone now.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : White Rastafarian Boulder : ... : Photo
By: Colin Kenneth When: May 20, 2010

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Comments: realizing that this was posted 5 years ago, and that "if you don't have anything nice to say," may apply; I am going to say it anyway:

What an idiot move. I am not one to minimize risk at the cost of adventure. But I also do not take those risks to show off or pose. It doesn't matter how strong he is, or how comfortable, all it would take is for his hand to accidentally grease, and it is a climbing career ending injury.

Fair trade for this photo?


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : The Space Between (5.10+) : Photo
By: Colin Kenneth When: Feb 27, 2010

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Comments: You had a pretty bold leader. Pretty awesome.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Wildcat Falls & Above the C... : Tales of Power (5.12b) : Photo
By: Colin Kenneth When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: maybe it is the angle of the photograph...but that looks like a contender for the worst placed cam in the valley.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : Chaos Canyon Bouldering : ... : Photo
By: Colin Kenneth When: Aug 25, 2009

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Comments: Huh?

The climber is Aaron Hager.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Pipe Cleaner (5.6) : Photo
By: Colin Kenneth When: Aug 18, 2009

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Comments: I'm only commenting because this was just the 'photo of the moment' so I'm not sure if there was intended sarcasm or not...As someone who tries to replace or tighten bolts etc whenever I can; I would urge you to use the same ethic. Maybe SOMEONE could be YOU. Everyone can't rely on someone else to do something.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Suspender Man (5.11)
By: Colin Kenneth When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: I stick clipped the first, but didn't think to pre-hang the 2nd. I am guessing it was bolted on rappel otherwise whoever bolted it must have 4 foot long arms. I had to hold the dogbone and pummel the hangar with my draw until it clipped while at nearly a full lock-off. I'm 5'11" ish with a +1.5 and it getting the draw in was a long reach. the rest is powerful and uber-pumpy but really fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Lust (5.10d)
By: Colin Kenneth When: Jul 22, 2009

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Comments: really fun climb. It's REALLY not 10d. no way. I led it in flip flops with only 2 falls and I'm not that bad ass.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : The Gem (5.12c)
By: Colin Kenneth When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth, 1989.

My first time on this my belayer tripped and pulled down HARD on the rope while I was in the sharp pockets just about to clip the (third?) bolt.

Great climb. Bad experience.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : New Eldo Guidebook - Previe...
By: Colin Kenneth When: Jul 4, 2009

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Comments: Oh what!?! So now I won't get to use the Falcon guide which has half of the "photo route maps" picturing a white line through a huge (and otherwise blank) black shadow?

(Stoked. Thanks a ton for the effort that obviously went into it!)



Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : ... : Photo
By: Colin Kenneth When: Jun 30, 2009

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Comments: Ah Meg.

As if the photo of the climb wasn't enough.


Location: Mohry : Photos of climbing : Photo
By: Colin Kenneth When: Jun 28, 2009

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Comments: God damn boulderers. So smug.

I bet that guy couldn't pull off a hand jam if his CRASHPAD depended on it.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Catacomb : Natural Born Driller (5.11c)
By: Colin Kenneth When: May 31, 2009

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Comments: I love this route. Even when I climb a number grade harder than this, it'll spit me off if I don't pay attention to what I'm doing. It's possible to use friction holds around the right at both the 2nd and 3rd bolts, but I think the direct route up the face is harder, more sustained, more technical and more fun. If you are capable, go straight up until right at the 4th.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Punani Area/North Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Colin Kenneth When: May 28, 2009

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Comments: That is a bit excessive pad-wise for the LZ isn't it?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair III : Intimidation (5.9+)
By: Colin Kenneth When: Nov 21, 2008

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Comments: Hmm. Again being told to "suck it and go home". Please, someone else tell me to go back to Colorado where the climbing is so awful. Please be a bit more receptive to outsiders views yeah? We aren't trying to convert you. We are trying to share helpful insight to those who may NOT be trying to shove your own license plate up your ass.

As per the grade of 9+ being thrown up after 10s and 11s...yeah, I don't doubt there has been a 9 established after the invent of higher grades which accompanied n... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair III : Intimidation (5.9+)
By: Colin Kenneth When: Nov 20, 2008

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Comments: You have to love the good nature of Ved climbers, don't you.

If I may be so bold, and at the risk of having disparaging comments flung at me because I'm a climber from (skoff) COLORADO of all places, where everyone knows, there are no climbers, or PLACES to climb...If we study not the climb, but your POSTS, notice Matt's initial post, is concise, HELPFUL and descriptive of why he believes it goes at his believed grade....

Wyo guys just pretty much say "suck it and go home" for having any kind ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Aid Crack (5.10d)
By: Colin Kenneth When: Sep 25, 2008

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Comments: This route does not lend well to larger hands...I have kind of a meat hook syndrome, so "tips" becomes very literal. My friend can lock into secure jams most of the time on this where as once I leave the ground I feel like I am twisting the hell out of my fingernails and getting no purchase whatsoever.

The route is essentially over once you are about 18 feet up in my opinion. There is FAN TASTIC climbing above, but compared to the section you've just forced your way up the top half seems 5.9-, ... more >>


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