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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mt. Ogden Quartzite (a.k.a.... : Great Flake : Tigers and Vaseline (5.12c)
By: Colby Wayment When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is actually "Tigers on Vaseline" and it is Ogden's (closest) version of "Chain Reaction" in Smith. Not runnout at all. The route was intended to have the first bolt stick-clipped as the crux hits just before it and blowing those moves with no protection would obviously be bad. Tigers and Vaseline is pretty funny though.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Sinsemilla Crack (5.10)
By: Colby Wayment When: Apr 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Hey mister collie man
Look I didn't come to disturb
You best not be come 'round here
Unless you've got me sensi herb!"
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Diminishing Returns (5.11b)
By: Colby Wayment When: Mar 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed. This is more difficult than W&W. But that's because W&W is only 10b. This is what a quartzite 11b feels like.
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Location: bsmoot : Running from the camera : Photo
By: Colby Wayment When: Feb 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is hilarious!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower 2 : Insane in the Brain (5.11b/c)
By: Colby Wayment When: Sep 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Extensions are not alterations of the climb!
I do not personally know this climb, but it sounds as if a legitimate extension was put in. Please do not chop for your ego. We already have enough chopping wars going on in SLC.
Coming from one of the original Hellgate FA's, Bill Hunt, it sounds as if this crew attacking Allen have bolted many of the pre-existing Top Ropes in the Towers area. The routes were envisioned and climbed (on TR) before you got to them, but nobody cares or complains about... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)
By: Colby Wayment When: Apr 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are you new to climbing in LCC?
Oh, and I use the corner.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Acapulco Arete (5.10b)
By: Colby Wayment When: Apr 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1 star? 2 stars? WTF? This thing is great.
Yeah, I don't know about the 10b rating either. It is a little bit of an exciting lead. Getting to the first bolt is not that bad. It is nice to have a runner to tie off the chickenhead above the third bolt as it is your last piece of protection. I don't remember seeing places for gear.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Weed B Gone (5.11c/d)
By: Colby Wayment When: Feb 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route felt harder than 5.10d! I think the Ruckman guide lists it as "On the Rocks Variation" (5.10d). Also it gives it no stars. Disregard the book; it is really fun and worthwile.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b) : Photo
By: Colby Wayment When: Oct 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best section of the route. Very Nice!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : After The Fall: aka Totally... (5.9)
By: Colby Wayment When: Oct 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this today. It will certainly be a nice crack route when the bolts are put in and it gets a little cleaner. For right now, we climbed the chimney to the left and traversed right on the ledge. Be EXTREMELY careful on the traverse from the chimney to the hand crack (Very loose). I think one bolt should go on the clean wall above that death ledge to protect the traverse over to the handcrack.
Regarding the flake: I guess I'll have to shrug my shoulders and say "oh well, it's not that bad... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Waterslide (5.9+)
By: Colby Wayment When: Aug 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Forgive me; I didn't intend to sandbag anyone. I was referring to the upper runout section as (5.6). Yes, the bottom section is about 20 feet with some 5.8ish slab moves immediately before the first bolt. The bolt is solid though! I know I've whipped on it numerous times.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Thumbing To Bogota (5.10a/b C1-2)
By: Colby Wayment When: Jul 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Rappel anchors were installed from the Thumb Summit Block that go down toward S-Crack. it was our desire to establish adequate and easy rap stations all the way down to the bottom of the Thumb gully...the start of all Thumb routes."
Just when I thought I would never summit the thumb again - "thanks" is not enough.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : CoalPit Buttress : Stiffler's Mom (5.11a)
By: Colby Wayment When: May 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Route and Vision. Pitch 3 was awesome and so was the crux roof on pitch 6. A key jug to clip the 2nd bolt at the crux roof felt like it was flexing (pull gently); I'm an average weight climber - maybe my mind was just tricking me. I felt pitch 5 was the most difficult "onsight" pitch.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Willard Canyon
By: Colby Wayment When: Mar 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are also many "adventure" routes located in Willard Canyon. In most cases, the rock is not as chossy as it looks. Almost a lifetime of climbs can be done; most, of which, are multi-pitch. Nearly everthing about the Willard area is as "traditional" as it gets. One has to have good route finding skills. There are almost no bolts here! Protection consists of linking seams and horizontal cracks together. It is almost impossible to describe the location of any routes that may have bee... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Waterslide (5.9+)
By: Colby Wayment When: Jul 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love this route. I think it is an excellent warmup for some of the other routes nearby. The climb may seem runout, but the dangerous sections are pretty easy(5.6) - just be careful making the one or two moves right before clipping the bolt. I thought the crux was well protected just a few feet above the bolt.
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