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Member Since: May 10, 2005
Last Visit: Sep 15, 2009
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Point Rank: # 4,761
Total Points: 81
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
15 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 63 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts 1 | Stars 18 | Ratings 14

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Willy B
By: Cody Munger When: Feb 24, 2009

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Comments: We were able to rappel with plenty of rope to spare with a 50m rope straight west along the ridge. If you do run out of rope you can do a second rappel by slinging your rope around a boulder on the first ledge you land on. The other comments had me thinking we were in for an epic downclimb because our rope might have been too short.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Stettner's Ledges (5.8)
By: Cody Munger When: Aug 26, 2007

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Comments: Did this one a few days ago. The approach was the crux in this case. The snowfield had melted away to an icy wall of death below the traditional start. We managed to do a three pitch tennis shoe traverse on the right side of the glacier along the ridge. Right before getting to the base of the actual route, the glacier got horribly thin and way too steep for our equipment. Luckily there was a cave worn out behind the glacier that had an easy (at the time) chimney squeeze up to a spot where w... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Touch Monkey (5.11b)
By: Cody Munger When: Aug 25, 2006

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Comments: The first ring bolt is a scary clip. Quite reachy from an awkward stance. A sling can be put around a small horn about 12 feet up from the ground, though it doesn't do much good if you fall during the first clip.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Knot Carrot (5.11a)
By: Cody Munger When: Aug 25, 2006

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Comments: The bolts seemed like they were in a good spots that were quite reachable. If you look to the right on the crux moves, there is an excellent jug that makes the crux much easier. If you're blinded by chalk, then this hold will be invisible. The traverse left from the second bolt looked pretty scary, so we went straight up instead and placed a medium stopper at the ridge at the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East of the Sun (5.7)
By: Cody Munger When: Aug 16, 2006

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Comments: I totally got off route the first time I tried this and went up the chimney instead. No pro in that but way easy. Tried again with the guidebook and found the line to be directly to the left of the crack on the East Slab. I've even placed gear on this route when doing some wandering leading the East Slab. The gear looks (and is) sparse, but there's placements in all the right places. Bring a red #1 Camalot for the hole you find halfway up. The crack at the first belay station ate one... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : North Face Left (5.8)
By: Cody Munger When: Jun 12, 2006

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Comments: Don't even THINK about touching that flake or using it for gear. There is a small edge to the left of it you can use as a much smaller hand hold.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Black Crack (5.9)
By: Cody Munger When: May 20, 2006

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Comments: Pretty stiff for a 5.9. I found the Yellow Spur and the first pitch of Tagger to be much easier than this. Though I agree that none of the moves are harder than 5.9, it threw me off because it was overhanging, and I wore myself out trying to get on to the face from the top of Gill Crack. The pin is good. I took a whipper on it while trying to get over the little corner at the top there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : The Owl (5.7)
By: Cody Munger When: May 16, 2006

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Comments: I've done another 5.9 (?) exit variation to the ending that slips around the left side of the final roof and climbs a steep face to a frictiony dihedral. Not in the Rossiter guidebook that I saw.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: Cody Munger When: Apr 18, 2006

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Comments: I was more scared by the approach to the crux than the crux itself. Probably because the crack looks so heinous from the ground. The crack had bomber hand holds in all the right places and wasn't too bad. The pro in the crux itself was still the two fixed pieces mentioned previously and I didn't really see a need for any more placements. The gear below the crux I managed to get pieces in every 6 feet, lots of stopper placements.

For an alternative to the whale slide at the top, try doing th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Side aka West Chimney (5.7)
By: Cody Munger When: Nov 3, 2005

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Comments: Oh man. That traverse under the gnarly-looking, right-facing dihedral on P1 was horrendous. I didn't trust any of my gear placements and I was fearful that my hand holds would simply pop off. Aiding up Blind Faith probably would have been safer than this crappy traverse.

As far as the off-width, I didn't bother with it. The face climbing to the right was much easier. Unfortunately, the biggest cam I had was a number 3, and that went in right below the crack. The rest I ran out. In fact... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden
By: Cody Munger When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: Make sure you take the third Shadow Canyon turnoff from the Mesa Trail. I got confused because I hit 2 turnoffs to Shadow Canyon before giving up because I thought maybe the water trough was gone (it won't be, quite permanent).

Also, it's in your best interest go up on the south side of the Maiden. The north side is very difficult comparatively. Filled with huge boulders, downed trees, and overgrown with ferns and raspberrys.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Jackson's Wall (5.6)
By: Cody Munger When: Oct 5, 2005

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Comments: A few notes:

I didn't like the looks of the chimney start for my beginner on the first pitch, so I opted for the slab to the right. I was able to place a stopper (which popped out) about 8 feet off the ground, and then I ran it out the rest of the way (about 25 feet from the ground). Good 5.6 s warm up for the 4th class hiking above.

Make sure you don't stop in the gully until you hit the double bolt chain anchor at the base of the crux pitch. Less pitches that way.

Be careful of rope dra... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Au Natural (5.8)
By: Cody Munger When: Oct 3, 2005

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Comments: I brought my gear so I could avoid the lines on a weekend. Nobody on this route for some reason. Couldn't figure it out. I chose to finish left on the face climbing. You can get a couple decent stopper placements below the face climbing, but sport climbers may find it too run out. The climbing really isn't very hard from the last stopper placement to the bolt on the face, so I wasn't worried about a big fall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Choss Temple Pilots (5.8)
By: Cody Munger When: Oct 3, 2005

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Comments: The crux is a high stepping reachy thing if you follow the bolts. The shorter people I was with found it easier to go left where the step isn't as high.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Wise Crack (5.8)
By: Cody Munger When: Oct 3, 2005

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Comments: I just led this yesterday with cams and stoppers. Must say that the bolts are probably easier to clip if you're not used to gear placement. I had to place a #1 gold camalot in the crack while hanging off a jam on my left hand. Kind of awkward since I'm used to waiting for good stances before I place anything.

The other problem is that placing gear in the crack runs the rope through an annoying slot where is gets stuck if you don't work really hard to keep it out. I had to climb back u... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face North Side/Seal R... (5.4)
By: Cody Munger When: Sep 24, 2005

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Comments: Fun crack. Should have done one of the harder variations to make the route a little shorter. Got to the crack on pitch 4.

Don't forget to bring two ropes for the rap. I only had a 60 m and ended up with a fun little downclimb of the Shortcut with my beginner placing gear and anchors for me on the "lead" (don't fall).

I also dropped my chalkbag on the downclimb. If somebody does that route soon, they'll get a free chalkbag with a half used chalk ball.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Choss Temple Pilots (5.8)
By: Cody Munger When: Jun 21, 2005

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Comments: The bolts on this route were quite badly placed. Had to clip the second one while in the middle of a jam and got my rope all twisted up. The third bolt is useless. By the time you can clip it, you're already standing on the ledge, and reaching the 4th bolt is no problem from that position.

Getting over the roof is the crux. If you're tall, just grab a huge jug off to the right, no footwork required.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Unfamiliar Strangers (5.9+)
By: Cody Munger When: Jun 13, 2005

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Comments: The first move was easily done by standing on the flake and stepping up with your right foot on the big ramp. The lead was a bit scary since there was a bit of potential for groundfall on the first move. The rest was so pointlessly easy that I don't even think this route is worth doing. I rated it one 5.8 move with a lot of 4th class afterwards to my partners.

All the bolts seemed well placed, and the runout didn't bother me. Too bad the anchor wasn't placed a little higher so the last over... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Standard Route (5.7+)
By: Cody Munger When: Jun 2, 2005

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Comments: That pipe at the bottom is really leaky. Got my shoes and rope all wet before I even started. [Definitely] get geared up in the flat area to the left below the descent gully.

Also, I got my rope caught on a [piece] of cable hanging out of the pipe when pulling the rope up at the top of the second pitch. This led to me free soloing to the top, walking down, unsnagging the rope at the bottom, climbing back to the top, down climbing back to my anchor, and continuing the climb. Is there a better ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Cody Munger When: May 31, 2005

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Comments: My only recommendation is to bring draws for the piton ladder. I uh, forgot my 6 draws at the car. Got up to that pitch and saw 9 pins to be clipped and had the "oh, no" moment. Had to manufacture some draws out of wire stoppers. Also had to reach down and steal biners off lower clips. Luckily, I was able to improvise my way though this pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Wind Ridge (5.8)
By: Cody Munger When: May 10, 2005

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Comments: Overall, this is a fun one to drag a beginner up. The big flake on the third pitch was vaguely hard due to the lack of bomber hand holds. At least until I figured out that I need to stand on the flake.

After pulling the overhang I decided the standard finish up to the tree looked too easy, so I picked a line that goes to the right. The rock here is extremely loose, most of the holds grate when you grab them, the rocks are covered with lichen, the pro would hold as long as the rock didn't pop... more >>