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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : North Face/Ridge : Cable Route (5.4)
By: Clint Locks When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of comment date, there is still a large patch of unavoidable snow at the base. Other than that, the route is clear of snow/ice.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Maple Corridor : Meconium 23 (5.9)
By: Clint Locks When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: me·co·ni·um: noun-a dark greenish mass that accumulates in the bowel during fetal life and is discharged shortly after birth. (http://www.merriam-webster.com/) I was hoping for something a bit more compelling. Pretty gross! As for the "23" designation, I don't know. Fairly interesting route, though.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Tough Situation (5.9+)
By: Clint Locks When: Jul 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's great gear throughout this stellar (although short) pitch. don't let Chris's "ankle shots" referred to in the comments scare you off this beauty. (If you're looking for those pics, by the way, they were removed a while back).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: Clint Locks When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be aware that the entire first rising traverse off the deck on P1 is now essentially unprotectable (as of 07/09). A flake that once could be used for pro at the end of the traverse has become very loose. (It's actually just barely hanging on). That has compromised the integrity of the neighboring flake, as well, which used to have a great nut placement. That means that you're run out 30 feet before a good piece of pro at the 5.7 grade. What a great climb, though!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fourth Flatiron
By: Clint Locks When: Jul 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whether larger or smaller, it's definitely a different experience than the 3rd, so worth the effort at least once. Interesting belays on the first and second pitches.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Secret Circle
By: Clint Locks When: Jun 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seen it. Keeping the secret!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Brand New Bosch (5.9)
By: Clint Locks When: Jun 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun route, esp. if you finish out left on the face. Perhaps a couple of bolts too many (great gear placements out right), but all in all, a nice route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Edges and Ledges (5.8)
By: Clint Locks When: Jun 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For a moderate route, it doesn't get much better than this! The spacing between bolts will be comforting for a leader new to the grade and the anchor set-up is really convenient for quick on-and-off. Like Gary said, I suspect this route is going to be quite popular. One of your better efforts, Ron, et al!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : EL100 (5.7)
By: Clint Locks When: May 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tony, I wouldn't recommend Rocky Raccoon to ANYone. What a mess! And as for EL100-- tons of fun. Do it once by bark and limb. After that, traverse in from the wall to the right (Body Tremors?) and access the upper part of EL100 from there. Give the poor tree a break...pardon the pun. I agree that it seemed about 8+. Great handcrack toward the top!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Speakeasy (5.7 PG13)
By: Clint Locks When: Jan 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is one of the few in Eldo that I refuse to do again. Horrible! Loose and awkward and quite unenjoyable. I suggest P1 of Bushwhack Crack as an alternative, then hit Laughing At The Moon as a finish.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Laughing at the Moon (5.10b)
By: Clint Locks When: Jan 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As is mentioned on the Bushwhack Crack page, BC is the most direct line to start Laughing At The Moon. You won't need anything more than a yellow Alien and a few small nuts/RPs to protect between bolts. By mistake, I climbed all the way through the hand traverse to the arete, then traversed back in a bit higher to the last bolt at ~ 5.9.
Tons of fun, and one of those pitches you wish was longer. Reminded me a bit of the upper part of Moonlight Drive (Cadillac), which is another one not to miss.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : The Knack (5.6)
By: Clint Locks When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I might also mention that a couple of holds at the upper crux have popped off, making this section of the climb MUCH harder than 5.6. Super-enjoyable, though, and great gear. Traverse at the top to the bolt anchors of Fountain to belay. Thanks to the ASCA for the new bolts!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : The Knack (5.6)
By: Clint Locks When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a point low on the route (see photo) where our rope got pinched so badly that my partner had to build an anchor halfway up so we could free it. Consider placing a directional piece (BD#2 Camalot) out left upon reaching a lower ledge at ~25 feet so as to avoid the pinch point.(However, that technically made "The Knack" 2 pitches, thereby upping our pitch count for the day, and we all know how important that is).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Fountain of Youth (5.10b)
By: Clint Locks When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A couple of key holds have come off at the first bolt, (quite recently) as well as a flake at the second. As a result, this climb is now much harder than 10b.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb : Photo
By: Clint Locks When: Oct 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Destroying public property is illegal, and a ticket-able offense.
Furthermore, "keeping wildlife, um... an amphibious rodent, for... um, ya know domestic... within the city... that ain't legal either."
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb
By: Clint Locks When: Oct 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ric-I made it to the base of the climb via Shadow Canyon in a little less than 2 hours. We descended to the east and hit the Mesa trail. It was indeed a bushwack in places, but not that bad. If one AScended that way, it could be tricky to find the base of the climb, as the forest is pretty thick toward the top.
From the chain anchors on top, a 60 mtr rapel comes up a little short. It will, however, deposit you on a small ledge from which you can easily down-climb the ~12 remaining feet to the ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Devil's Thumb : Toponas (5.8)
By: Clint Locks When: Oct 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the chain anchors on top, a 60 meter rappel comes up a little short. It will, however, deposit you on a small ledge from which you can easily down-climb the ~12 remaining feet to the ground. Also, if you choose to rap from the steel rod above the "Left Side" route instead, the down-climb to that is not a 'walk in the park'. Mike, Bruce and ASCA: Thanks for the bolt!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pseudo Sidetrack (5.4 R)
By: Clint Locks When: Oct 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another fun variation is PA's Variation. Try it out for a finish if you want a little more "spice in the chili".
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Morte (5.9)
By: Clint Locks When: Oct 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: C'est La Wasp Nest At The Crux...as of 09/08. Careful.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Rocky Raccoon (5.9)
By: Clint Locks When: Jul 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like the 2 topmost branches of the tree were recently broken off. The transition onto the face is now much harder (and not fun, just awkward). There are much better climbs in the area to do, in my opinion.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: Clint Locks When: Jun 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the risk of stating the obvious--for those who are not "at one" with the resident birds and their leavings, simply clip into the numerous slings around the chockstone at the end of P1, tie a clove hitch and extend it down to the ledge about 7 feet from the original belay. That way, you've got a nice place to watch your buddy and you don't have to worry about the wasting wetness in the crack above.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Running Man Wall : Plastic People (5.10b/c)
By: Clint Locks When: Mar 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is tons of fun! It begins with an airy traverse which reminded me a little of Rosy Crucifixion's first pitch (Eldorado Canyon). Crux up high, anchors set back, hard to see until the angle eases off.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Sooberb (5.10c)
By: Clint Locks When: Jan 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new rap anchors are indeed a great addition to the area. Thanks, Chris and the rest of ACE!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Chick on the Side (5.10b/c)
By: Clint Locks When: Jan 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just want to log a counter point to the earier comment.
I agree that the tree is a bit intrusive, but it's important to remember (especially as more and more people are climbing here) that we are all just visitors in the canyon and have a responsibility to its preservation. And even if we wanted to, we can't just create 'improvements' in a state park on a whim. My point: Just climb around it. We climbers create enough unintentional impact as it is without "trimming" trees because they poke our... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Parallel Journey (5.9+)
By: Clint Locks When: Sep 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: P2 and 3 have become two of my favorite .9(+?) pitches in the Eldo area! Great fun! P1, however...Don't bother. Start with Perversion and traverse over. You'll be glad you did.
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