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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact Tradoholic

Point Rank: # 22
Total Points: 12,526
Last Year: 129
Last 30 Days: 9
365 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 6006 | Routes 280 | Areas 79 | Photos 1386 | Page Improvements | Comments 1611 | Posts 923 | Stars 1162 | Ratings 565
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (f) Limp Dick : Limp Dick (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: The bolt for the mantle is probably original and looks like it would never hold a fall.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Left Side : B.C.'s Ouch Chimney (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: I have twice now bailed off this thing. First because the initial chimney was insecure and second because I ran out of suitable gear 3/4 up. The gear is all there but I swear I could have used triples of .3 to 1 C4. I used a #4 and #5 as well. Everything is flaring and it certainly doesn't inspire confidence in your moves or gear.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Price of Fear (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: I think I used magic to do the finish slab.


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : The Headless Horseman (5.11+ V4-)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: There's no direct translation V-Scale to YDS. I would imagine the reason is that on TR it feels 5.11+, but way up above pads it's going V6-ish.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Alf's Arete (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: How it was done originally aside, this climb is brilliant! There's an old button head next to a newer bolt that should probably get yanked and patched.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Imaginary Voyage Formation : Imaginary Voyage (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: One of my favorites at Jtree. The starting lay back is a bear!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: We rapped the route almost directly. The gully rap is out of date.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: The pitches have changed over time, my take with a 70m:

-P1 to the chains.
-P2 past the chains to the ledge.
-P3 through the roof past two anchors to a third anchor.
-P4 short pitch to final chains then rap or go up 5.8 pitch.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Mustache Boulder : Midwest Mustache Ride (V4)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 31, 2015

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Comments: A G Dodge CLASSIC!


Location: CO : Mountain Project is hiring ...
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: It would be great if you hired a few rock climber content developers to clean up/fix and add routes!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Tumbling Rainbow Formation : Run For Your Life (5.10b R)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: If a "R" rating is applied when the climbing "isn't hard but if you blow it you could deck" the whole damn park would be "R". The point being that this isn't a sport climb and when doing ground up stuff anywhere you should expect parts where blowing it isn't an option.

"R" nowadays doesn't mean run-out, it indicates a seriousness of the lead, with movie ratings; PG-13, R, X.

This whole "R"=Run-out thing has to die.


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Cannon Boulder : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: (FACEPALM)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Left Ski Track (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: This thing is way past it's prime, pretty polished at this point and sketchy at the start. If you have a purple X4, it will plug the pocket right at the crux, good luck.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Dihedral Rock : Happy Happy, Joy Joy (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: Fun enough, plenty of face holds around the upper crack.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : Swept Away (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: Nobody said anything about that little solo to the first gear! .1 or .2 X4 was helpful at the 2nd pitch crux. From the bolted belay I climbed up to clip the bolt then back down for the traverse.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Dihedral Rock : Coarse and Buggy (5.11a/b)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 7, 2015

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Comments: With modern micro gear you can sew this up, without plug the pods after using them, bomber .3 C4.

Of course, a super route with good rests, use them.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Freeway Wall : Upper Freeway Wall : Sig Alert (aka Cast Up A Hi... (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: Finish straight up for full value, a .75 and 1 C4 will sew it up.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Freeway Wall : Upper Freeway Wall : Anacram (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: Pretty tame for 10c. A yellow DMM offset was perfect for the 2nd crux, might be a little less tame without it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : Booglesby (5.9+ R)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: Little heady over the first bolt.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Rainbow Buttress (5.8+)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: I lined 1 and 2, 3 and 4, and 6 and 7 with a 70m, (dihedral variation). Sport finish is lame but necessary.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : There and Back Again (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: Link this to a Eagle Wall route for full value, goes pretty quickly by linking pitches with a 70.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Born in Blood (V12)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: V4- at Boulders Nic ;)

Most of this was TL:DR, I have real climbing to do. However, I don't think there's any argument that grades are totally inconsistent at DL. I never bouldered much there but I think from this discussion and others it's obvious.

Ian, you probably need to be more conservative with your grades, or at least be humble about it until a 2nd person sends it.

And to all of you, it's the fucking internet, try real hard to to get butt hurt. If you were climbing R/X Trad I... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (m) The Weeping Wall : Clam Chowder (5.9 R)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: Pretty tame for 10a. I vote 5.9.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (m) The Weeping Wall : Ten Karat Gold (5.10a R)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: Indeed "R" but I felt quite solid the whole time. The best strategy would be to keep going, just enough of a hold will appear, I promise.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Valhalla (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: The topo in the Vogel guide is a bit off for P2, I would describe it as: From log ledge, traverse down and right, clip a bolt then take one step right and head straight up for a bolt. From here head left, more so then the topo suggests. After exhausting the left most bolts, trend back right and straight for the anchor.

There's an errant bolt on P3 to the left, not sure what it is for. ?P3 could be considered runout.

The cruxs are short and sweet on this one, a great intro to 11 slab.


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