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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 22
Total Points: 12,558
Last Year: 128
Last 30 Days: 18
359 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 5996 | Routes 282 | Areas 80 | Photos 1387 | Page Improvements | Comments 1603 | Posts 919 | Stars 1160 | Ratings 565
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: To expand the above statement, don't climb under anyone left of Super Pooper, it's a choss show all over the upper North Face. Better would be if everyone could be more careful all over the mountain and not knock anything off in the first place. Been all over the damn thing and never knocked a rock loose ever myself.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Vampire (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: I felt that the Bat Crack was the hardest pitch! 2nd pitch crux is just a few thin moves then jugs. I did the 10d crux on the 3rd pitch I think, pretty stright forward once I figured out the beta. Enjoy!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Special K (5.10d R)
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: A defnite heads up R to the first bolt. Then use magic or levitation to float the uber slab crux. The finishing roof is kinda awkward but a nice relief for your burning feet.


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : Rusty Ring Wall : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: JON, YOU ARE NOT STRONG ENOUGH TO CLIMB THIS ROUTE AND THEREFORE HAVE NO RIGHT TO COMMENT ON THE RED TAG STATUS!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (o) Right of the Escalator : Hair Lip (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: This has claimed yet another ankle. My partner took a whip from the crux and slammed the slab pretty good. Not broke but tweaked for sure. Watch out!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (u) Northeast Buttress : Flakes of Wrath (5.10c R)
By: Tradoholic When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: Tricky to get into the start. Sewed it up and milked a great kneebar halfway. Sweet!

Onlt "R" for P2 which is very skip-able.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (u) Northeast Buttress : Etude (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: Awesome route, I felt a bit runout over the now single pin, there were placements between the pin and the rest but stopping would have taken more energy than it was worth!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : The Souvenir (5.10d R)
By: Tradoholic When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: In full better than Edgehogs but the crux pitch of Edgehogs is a better single pitch. I chose the 10b version going basically straight up from the 4th bolt on the 3rd pitch, rather than 10d traverse to the left.

The 2nd pitch roof was pretty cool, do it.


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : Amphitheater Wall : Whitney's Chimney (5.9)
By: Tradoholic When: May 26, 2016

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Comments: Feel free to massacre any birds in the way of your climbing.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Sahara Terror (5.7)
By: Tradoholic When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: My coveted DLFA chalk bag fell off me while on Edgehogs, probably wound up on this route somewhere. PM me if you find it please!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Edgehogs (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: In whole this route is just so-so. After P4 it's pretty contrived and boring except for the 5.10 roof at the end. My advice is hop on Whodunit after P4 and then at the end jump left to do the cool juggy roof.

Details on pitches:
P1: Start as Whodunit but go farther left, through crack (piton) to a bolt with a homemade aluminum hanger, straight up to bolted belay, 10a.

P2: Money pitch. Start by laybacking the arete, then reach around the corner and onto Whodunit for a few feet, enjoy sweet slab... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (i) South Face : South Face - Left Side : Chingadera (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: May 21, 2016

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Comments: Loved it but I had a totally different experience then described here. First off the Vogel/Gaines topo is a little off. The 5th bolt is directly below the 3 bolt anchor and the three bolt anchor is for suckers. I angled up and left to the 6th bolt and never touched it. I can see how people would go right at the 5th bolt but you would definitely go into no holds land. Looks like there was a flake there at one point to assist in clipping those anchors but it's gone now.

At the 6th bolt I traverse... more >>


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : Rusty Ring Wall
By: Tradoholic When: May 18, 2016

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Comments: Oh man Eggbert, thanks for that link and the trip down memory lane. I can tell when the snow has melted cause the MP WI posts go through the roof!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : ZZZZZ (5.9 R)
By: Tradoholic When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: Good moves on good rock but not classic. Why the hype?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : Pope's Crack, Direct Finish (5.10b/c)
By: Tradoholic When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: Crux hold is no more flexy than anything else in JT.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Anasazi Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: Good stuff, too short to do in 2 pitches, just back clean first bolt on left traverse. Still growing up and shedding some choss on the upper half. Fyi, would be very hard to rap and clean.


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : North Wall : Bucky's Paradise (formerly ... (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: For name I suggest "Bucky's Paradise".


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : Balanced Rock Wall : Beer and Booty (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: If it wasn't posted on MP before...IT'S A FA!!!!!!!


Location: WI : Dudley Davis Quarry Park: S...
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: Damn. I never looked there. Good find! Keep it up!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : The Drain Pipe (5.11b)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2016

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Comments: Gnar right off the deck. I couldn't pull it, aided on a micro cam. Looking at the thin crack I ventured right into what looked like better territory to gain the base of the wide crack, ie skipped the pitons. The wide crack was fun in an old school way, had just enough gear with a C4 #4 and #5 plus 2 #3's for the wide section. Traversed left at the end, spanned the gap to gain bolts on top of a block (Clockwork Orange 10d) to rap back down to ground and our packs.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Left Side : The Man Who Fell to Earth (5.11a)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 23, 2016

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Comments: Hidden Gem! Three bolts now for the initial 5.10d section, run out to bolt #4, distinct 5.11 crux at bolt#5. If you don't feel like 5.11 slab, traverse right at bolt #3 up a ramp to two bolts and then a bolted anchor in a left facing corner, finish on Caliente (10c 2nd pitch), bolts for rap to the right.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Rainy Wednesday Tower : Orgasm Direct (5.11b) : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Shit, I remember backing off this on the OS. I re-read my comment on the main page, I called it "X"! But maybe I just got all fucked up on it, never tried again that I recall.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bagatelle (5.12d R)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: Holy fuck. Awesome!


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : North Wall : Panacea Roof (5.12b)
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Anyone climb this yet?


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro...
By: Tradoholic When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Sounds like damage was "near" routes but not actually to them. Yes?


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