Comments: This is a nice and challenging route. The intended route does not on the face below the first bolt. Start on the left of the arete/on the right side of the chimney. The route have a good mix of sharp and smooth holds. There are lots of balance moves up the whole climb. There are 7 bolts to the abseil anchors.
The crux is between the fourth and fifth bolt, once you figure out the moves it is not as hard as it seems.
If you are shorter and not comfortable with your climbing ability then a few o... more >>
Comments: Reni and I are in fact not one in the same. You would know this if you looked at the pictures. Yes, I am indeed very very busy with other very important matters. Yes, I have indeed read everything in which has been posted. Yes, my long awaited and much anticipated response which I am working on will soon be posted and available in all hopes that this situation will be resolved soon, for the best for everyone, in the best manor.
Comments: This is a very easy climb you can free climb it and I practically did. I only put two pieces of gear in. Used as a warm-up route. Not strenuous at all. However the chimney is tight so there is a nice amount of squirming and wiggling up. Not many places for the best gear placement if you are a bigger person. There is a great crack in the back on the chimney but it was way to tight for me to get to to place gear.
Above is the link to the guide books web site for climbing in this area. I recommend that anyone who climbs out here purchase a copy. It is a good guide with good directions to the areas, however it leaves a lot of info out. For further information, topo's a list of FA's please see the website posted above.
Are few other good links are the also posted below.
Also if you are climbing here please add any info to these areas.
Comments: There are now seven routes in this area. 5 trad and 2 sport. 6 of the routes have been led, there is one that is still open to a FA but it may become a sport route soon due to the lack of gear placement.
So far only one of the routes has a name and grade. Once the rest are named and graded I will post them.
Comments: This area is one of my absolute favorite areas. If you are planning a trip to the area I highly recommended spending a day or two up at Custer State Park. The rock there is very unique, fun and challenging to climb on. You will find that even the tiniest of crystals are great hand and foot holds despite there size.
Along with great climbing there are tons of trails, hiking and swimming in the lake is also great. There are also tons of great routes for kids as well.