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Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading P2 of Bonnie's Roof (5.8), Trapps, Gunk...


Member Since: May 26, 2009
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 68 | Routes | Areas | Photos 18 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 25 | Posts 18 | Stars 6 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Outsiders (5.8)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 16, 2016

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Comments: Loved this climb. Lots of varied moves, real jams, liebacking, corner moves, big step over an exposed gap, it has lots of fun moves and is well protected.

Our first pitch ended in the small corner on the exposed right edge of the giant pillar. Stepping over the gap into that corner is one of the funnest moves on the climb and isn't to be missed! Felt like a 5.7, but with enough challenging moves to be thoughtful and interesting.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Seniors in Motion (5.9)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 16, 2016

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Comments: Just had to add that I was also there on the first ascent, likely my only chance to ever get in a Gunks guidebook on a 1st ascent, and Dick forgot to add my name to the FA party. Sigh.

It's here now! -- admin


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiack Area : Pywiak Dome : Zee Tree (5.7)
By: cliffmama When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: We couldn't found the start of the climb. Part of the reason was because the base still was covered in now. But the supertopo guidebook shows a tree about halfway up in the topo. There is a prominent tree halfway up and the climb is called "Zee Tree", so we went over there to look for the start of the climb and never found it. After some fun wandering around on low angle slab for a while looking for bolts, we gave up. On the way back to the car, ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Seven (5.8)
By: cliffmama When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: As a Gunks climber who sucks at vertical cracks, I found both pitches to be delightful, with great moves and good gear. The 5.8 face crux was hardly a crux for someone used to face climbing. Absolutely loved it!
We finished off with the final pitches of After Six to the top. Very enjoyable outing!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Six (5.7)
By: cliffmama When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: If it's your first time on the Manure Pile, get the beta on the descent. The book we had was vague, and someone else on the climb told us to descend at a particular dead tree, and pointed to it. Turned out to be a "death chute" that dropped off. Luckily we weren't the only ones to make that mistake and found a tree with slings on it that could bring us safely down the the well-traveled descent trail in the gully. Found the oth... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : The Line (5.9)
By: cliffmama When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Question: I'm a Gunks climber, so I suck at crack climbing. Would you give this a G rating for gear? Are there decent features on the face to use as well for most of the climb? From the pics, it looks like there are dikes and other features for feet. Looking forward to getting out there on that fine, fine rock!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Wop Stop (5.6 PG13)
By: cliffmama When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: We never did it before, so for the first pitch, 150 feet of 5.6 G sounded good on a busy weekend, right? Don't bother. My partner thought the start felt like 5.7 PG-13. Then the upper section had a thick coating of old lichen powder on it, you couldn't move without getting crap in your eyes. Then the GT ledge where he belayed from was literally coated in white vulture crap. Luckily it was dried vulture crap, but totally covered.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Gorilla My Dreams (5.7)
By: cliffmama When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: Didn't remember the directions and ended up on P2 of Gaston because we went left instead of right at the rhododendron. It was really easy 5.5, which means if you're not a 5.7 climber, if you do P2 of Gaston you get a 5.6, 5.5, 5.5 link up. Nice climbing on P1 & P3. Some of the rocks in the corner of P2 looked pretty loose, wasn't sure about placing any gear behind them. But after the bush I went the wrong way anyway...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Erect Direction (5.10c)
By: cliffmama When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: I don't climb hard enough for P2, but that first pitch of Erect Direction is a wonderful quality 5.8 G, and makes for a more interesting and fantastic link-up with CCK.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Trusty Rifle (5.7)
By: cliffmama When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: I started from the Bloody Bush ledge, and kept wondering why this felt way too easy to be a 5.7. I think I ended up a little too far left and was probably on the post-traverse part of Rusty Trifle. Oops.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Wolf and the Swine (5.9 R)
By: cliffmama When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: This can be top roped by leading the easier climbs to the right (not in Mountain Project). We went up Antsy Oh, a forgettable 5.5 which leads to the tree at the top of Wolf & the Swine. Found a manky old sling around a tree for a rap anchor. We added a new sling to it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Loose Goose (5.6)
By: cliffmama When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Started on Loose Goose, switched to the 5.8 crack climb, then finished on last pitch of Loose Goose. It's a fantastic line. All well protected and fun climbing.
Warning: At the "almost top", we saw a cable around a tree rap anchor to the right. A short walk along the ledge took us to the anchor. and with a single 70m rope, it didn't quite make it to the next rap tree anchor. We could put our feet down to a block above the right side of the ledge, then had to do a short downclimb to the ledge (a... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Lower Slabs
By: cliffmama When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: The guidebook and description are confusing. While hiking up to observation deck, look for boulder and small unmarked trail that veers off to the right. This will take you directly to the Scuttle area.

Rock Climbing Photo: The trail to the Lower Slabs is off to the right.
The trail to the Lower Slabs is off to the right.



Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Lower Slabs : Seldom Seen (5.7 R)
By: cliffmama When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: We did some variations on top rope that made for interesting harder ascents. At the bottom, climb the thin face just to the right of the crack, group consensus 5.11a. Near the top, climb the face to the left of the route, group consensus 5.10a. YMMV.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : The Blackout (5.9-)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Today the bolt on the last pitch of The Blackout was replaced with a new, safer one, by Christian Fracchia of the Gunks Climbers Coalition.



Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wonderland (5.8)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Manky bolt on Wonderland has been replaced with a new shiny one by the Gunks Climbers' Coaltion with support from the Mohonk Preserve, the Access Fund and the ASCA.



Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Arrow (5.8)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Turned out the bolts were rotten, presumably caused by galvanic corrosion in a mixed-metal bolt and hanger combination. Today Christian Fracchia of the Gunks Climbers' Coalition replaced them.

Video of rotted bolts on Facebook.




Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: The Gunks Climbers' Coalition has just replaced that old manky bolt on Carbs and Caffeine!

Here's the old one:


Here's the new one:



Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Funny Face (5.5)
By: cliffmama When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: The start is either of 2 left facing corners. The one on the left is easier. The one on the right takes you to a dirty, grassy ledge to mantle up on with nothing really useful to hold onto. 1st pitch had some messy grassy ledges, and a 30-40 foot runout. Not hard climbing, but not recommended for a leader not solid at 5.5.
1st pitch belay ledge Cedar Tree had rap slings & rings on it. WTF? It's basically a bush. I wouldn't want to rap on it!
At the GT ledge, there was no anchor, I traversed rig... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13)
By: cliffmama When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Another serious accident was on the start of CCK P2 off the GT ledge a couple of weeks ago (August 2014). It's confusing where to start (I think the Williams and Swain books say different things), hard to protect and not far off the GT ledge and a bad result if you fall.

I prefer to start in the Updraft corner for just a short distance, then diagonal across the face to meet up with CCK. Bypasses the dangerous moves off the GT ledge, easy climbing (5.5) and easy to protect.

Also, a great link-... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks
By: cliffmama When: Jul 17, 2012

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Comments: For the latest Gunks Peregrine Falcon closure information watch the watch the Gunks Climbers' Coalition website, plus the Gunks Climbers' Coalition Facebook page or on twitter @gunksclimbers.

I also have general Gunks information for climbers and visitors at my website, cliffmama.com.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Ale 8 (5.12a/b)
By: cliffmama When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Is the lower part of Ale 8 the easy slab/face climb to the immediate left of Cold Feet -> Giant Man? There's an anchor at the top before the roof. It doesn't fit the description of Chicken Heads, so I'm guessing this is the lower part of Ale 8.... Seemed easier than a 5.8, and certainly not a 5.12... maybe 5.6-5.7ish?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Sente (5.9)
By: cliffmama When: Apr 26, 2012

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Comments: Love this climb, great for those who like thin, balancy moves. Dicey first moves until you can get gear in - I'm 5'6" tall and I have to use the slopey ramp as a hold until I can reach the big horizontal. Then three bolts make the hardest section a well protected sport climb - it's very thin here but if you fell, you won't go far. Then the rest is easy trad. Tree has sling anchor on it, so easy to set up top rope from here to TR Sente, and Thin Slabs with a directional.


Location: NY : The Gunks
By: cliffmama When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: The Gunks Climbers Coalition, established in the fall of 2002, is an advocacy group dedicated to creating and maintaining sustainable opportunities for responsible climbing along the Shawangunk Ridge and surrounding areas. To keep up to date with Gunks related news, watch our website at gunksclimbers.org,,
or our Facebook Page, Twitter feed or join our [[GCC Mai... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : P38 (5.10b PG13)
By: cliffmama When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: For those who don't want to lead it, it's pretty straightforward to set up a toprope on it by ascending Radcliffe (class 4) and building an anchor above P38. You'll need some directional gear (because the crack is leaning), which can be set when rapping down the route after setting up your toprope anchor.

There are 2 ways to do the start. One is to pull the overhang directly below the crack. Another is to ascend slightly left of the crack, and once over the overhang, balance over right to th... more >>



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