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Rock Climbing Photo: Jasmine cruising the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks 3/...


Member Since: May 26, 2009
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 45 | Routes | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 13 | Stars 3 | Ratings
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: The trail to the Lower Slabs is off to the right.

The trail to the Lower Slabs is off to the right.

WV : Seneca Rocks : ... : Comment

Aug 4, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Sign as you enter Seneca Rocks. In case of emergen...

Sign as you enter Seneca Rocks. In case of emergency call 911. But no one could get a cell phone signal here...

WV : Seneca Rocks

Aug 4, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Bright red Scarlet Tanager bird, seen at Seneca Ro...

Bright red Scarlet Tanager bird, seen at Seneca Rocks, WV.

WV : Seneca Rocks

Aug 4, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: My daughter Ariel on a 5.11a variation we made up ...

My daughter Ariel on a 5.11a variation we made up on the bottom of "Seldom Seen", Lower Slabs, Seneca Rocks. Climb the thin face just to the right of the route.

WV : Seneca Rocks : ... : Seldom Seen (5.7 R)

Aug 4, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Jannette Pazer climbing Squiggles Direct, 2007

Jannette Pazer climbing Squiggles Direct, 2007

NY : The Gunks : ... : Squiggles Direct (5.10b R)

Oct 29, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Jasmine cruising the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks 3/...

Jasmine cruising the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks 3/18/2012

NY : The Gunks : ... : Lower Eaves (5.9-)

Apr 26, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: Ariel on the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks, 3/18/2012

Ariel on the crux of Lower Eaves, Gunks, 3/18/2012

NY : The Gunks : ... : Lower Eaves (5.9-)

Apr 26, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading a slab sport climb in Eleven Mile Canyo...

Me leading a slab sport climb in Eleven Mile Canyon, 2007. Photo by Stewart Green

The People of Mountain Proj... : cliffmama : Colorado Springs area, Colo...

Aug 30, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading Montezuma's Tower (5.7), Garden of the ...

Me leading Montezuma's Tower (5.7), Garden of the Gods, CO. 2007. Photo by Stewart Green

The People of Mountain Proj... : cliffmama : Colorado Springs area, Colo...

Aug 30, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Me on a slab climb in Red Rock Canyon Open Space, ...

Me on a slab climb in Red Rock Canyon Open Space, Colorado Springs 2007. Photo by Stewart Green

The People of Mountain Proj... : cliffmama : Colorado Springs area, Colo...

Aug 30, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading P2 of Bonnie's Roof (5.8), Trapps, Gunk...

Me leading P2 of Bonnie's Roof (5.8), Trapps, Gunks, NY

The People of Mountain Proj... : cliffmama : Gunks, NY

Aug 30, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Gorilla My Dreams (5.7)
By: cliffmama When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: Didn't remember the directions and ended up on P2 of Gaston because we went left instead of right at the rhododendron. It was really easy 5.5, which means if you're not a 5.7 climber, if you do P2 of Gaston you get a 5.6, 5.5, 5.5 link up. Nice climbing on P1 & P3. Some of the rocks in the corner of P2 looked pretty loose, wasn't sure about placing any gear behind them. But after the bush I went the wrong way anyway...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Erect Direction (5.10c)
By: cliffmama When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: I don't climb hard enough for P2, but that first pitch of Erect Direction is a wonderful quality 5.8 G, and makes for a more interesting and fantastic link-up with CCK.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Trusty Rifle (5.7)
By: cliffmama When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: I started from the Bloody Bush ledge, and kept wondering why this felt way too easy to be a 5.7. I think I ended up a little too far left and was probably on the post-traverse part of Rusty Trifle. Oops.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Wolf and the Swine (5.9 R)
By: cliffmama When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: This can be top roped by leading the easier climbs to the right (not in Mountain Project). We went up Antsy Oh, a forgettable 5.5 which leads to the tree at the top of Wolf & the Swine. Found a manky old sling around a tree for a rap anchor. We added a new sling to it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Loose Goose (5.6)
By: cliffmama When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Started on Loose Goose, switched to the 5.8 crack climb, then finished on last pitch of Loose Goose. It's a fantastic line. All well protected and fun climbing.
Warning: At the "almost top", we saw a cable around a tree rap anchor to the right. A short walk along the ledge took us to the anchor. and with a single 70m rope, it didn't quite make it to the next rap tree anchor. We could put our feet down to a block above the right side of the ledge, then had to do a short downclimb to the ledge (a... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Lower Slabs
By: cliffmama When: Aug 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The guidebook and description are confusing. While hiking up to observation deck, look for boulder and small unmarked trail that veers off to the right. This will take you directly to the Scuttle area.

Rock Climbing Photo: The trail to the Lower Slabs is off to the right.
The trail to the Lower Slabs is off to the right.



Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Lower Slabs : Seldom Seen (5.7 R)
By: cliffmama When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: We did some variations on top rope that made for interesting harder ascents. At the bottom, climb the thin face just to the right of the crack, group consensus 5.11a. Near the top, climb the face to the left of the route, group consensus 5.10a. YMMV.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : The Blackout (5.9-)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Today the bolt on the last pitch of The Blackout was replaced with a new, safer one, by Christian Fracchia of the Gunks Climbers Coalition.



Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wonderland (5.8)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Manky bolt on Wonderland has been replaced with a new shiny one by the Gunks Climbers' Coaltion with support from the Mohonk Preserve, the Access Fund and the ASCA.



Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Arrow (5.8)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Turned out the bolts were rotten, presumably caused by galvanic corrosion in a mixed-metal bolt and hanger combination. Today Christian Fracchia of the Gunks Climbers' Coalition replaced them.

Video of rotted bolts on Facebook.




Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Carbs and Caffeine (5.11a)
By: cliffmama When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: The Gunks Climbers' Coalition has just replaced that old manky bolt on Carbs and Caffeine!

Here's the old one:


Here's the new one:



Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Funny Face (5.5)
By: cliffmama When: Sep 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The start is either of 2 left facing corners. The one on the left is easier. The one on the right takes you to a dirty, grassy ledge to mantle up on with nothing really useful to hold onto. 1st pitch had some messy grassy ledges, and a 30-40 foot runout. Not hard climbing, but not recommended for a leader not solid at 5.5.
1st pitch belay ledge Cedar Tree had rap slings & rings on it. WTF? It's basically a bush. I wouldn't want to rap on it!
At the GT ledge, there was no anchor, I traversed rig... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13)
By: cliffmama When: Aug 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Another serious accident was on the start of CCK P2 off the GT ledge a couple of weeks ago (August 2014). It's confusing where to start (I think the Williams and Swain books say different things), hard to protect and not far off the GT ledge and a bad result if you fall.

I prefer to start in the Updraft corner for just a short distance, then diagonal across the face to meet up with CCK. Bypasses the dangerous moves off the GT ledge, easy climbing (5.5) and easy to protect.

Also, a great link-... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks
By: cliffmama When: Jul 17, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: For the latest Gunks Peregrine Falcon closure information watch the watch the Gunks Climbers' Coalition website, plus the Gunks Climbers' Coalition Facebook page or on twitter @gunksclimbers.

I also have general Gunks information for climbers and visitors at my website, cliffmama.com.


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