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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Mr. Peanut (5.10+)
By: Clayton Laramie When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree this route is more like 10+ than 11+. Still really fun. Maybe 11+ if you didn't use the off-width but that would be pretty contrived for the creek.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Catsup (5.10+)
By: Clayton Laramie When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: seemed easier than 10+... or at least easier than the 10 on either side of it.
started with a big cam but easy to avoid off-width climbing. could also place hands pieces in a side crack to start. Then reach past a pod and from there it is a fun narrowing corner to the chains.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Dancing Queen (5.11+)
By: Clayton Laramie When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: cool route! blew a foot right after I got that first finger lock and somehow stayed on without losing the finger. the OW at the top is fun too! Every route we did on The Wall this day went through all sizes with the crux on small gear. So Fun!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Pigs On The Wing (5.11)
By: Clayton Laramie When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: What a GREAT route! Lots of thin hands and the crack switch is cool!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Sorrow (5.11)
By: Clayton Laramie When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: A little choss at the beginning to another great narrowing crack. A little thin up high to be a warmup for me. Double zero c3 holds it's first of 3 falls for the day!! Who woulda though?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : The Judge (5.12-)
By: Clayton Laramie When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of fun. Great addition to The Wall!!! The double zero c3 held two falls for me.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Wavy Gravy (5.10)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can easily place a finger piece in the left crack above the second roof to keep the rope from pushing any pieces back in there.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Zow (5.11)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The book calls it 5.11. I thought it was hard for 11 but it was super slippery for us... silt or something covers the right side wall so the feet aren't great. Change corners and push into .75s in an opposite facing position and charge for the roof. If you get that far clean you can probably will yourself to the top for the send.
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Location: International : Chile : Valley de Cochamo : Cerro La Junta : Camp Farm (5.11c)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Nov 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah Daniel put up Camp Farm. Cool route is heady when the first pitch has running water!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Way Rambo (5.12-) : Photo
By: Clayton Laramie When: Nov 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice damn photo! That moon looks SICK!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Jolt Cola (5.12-)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Link it into the roof above for a fun full-value pitch! Might want to rig a tension rap to save your rope though... anyone know what that upper roof pitch is? is it P2 of this or another name? thanks!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Gorilla (5.10)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: how the heck does this not get 4 stars! great route and a nice warmup. the pods may be a little tricky but the route offers plenty of rest steps.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Ruins Crack (5.10+)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.11 for sure. Edit (11/14/09)... damn I didn't know about the access issue when I got on this a few weeks back. I kinda feel like an ass for having climbed this now. I thought the Ruins reference was a joke since that little wind shelter is so recently maintained.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Wolf's Ear (5.11-)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wolf's Ear 11+ per the book. 10+ per consensus
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Hijinx in the Desert (5.11)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: agree. this roof is really tricky. no way it is 11-. I saw the potential knee bar after I blew it but still didn't use it. hiked my feet in the overhanging crack and just wrenched down on the jams above the roof. tough to grade due to the trickery but harder than 11-
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Jolly Rancher (5.10)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: agree that this route has slammer gear the whole way up it. no chance it is R rated
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face Original Pitch 1 (5.11b)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow that pitch is excellent! Agree that the tips liebacking is the crux. I was perplexed at the blank dihedral above with the bolt but eventually figured it out. Gotta commit off the ledge before you can clip the bolt unless you're really tall. Solid lead by my partner and we did the blank section differently... improbable stemming got me through. A single 70m rope is good for the route but WATCH YOUR ENDS on the first rappel. We had to reach down to clip the anchor then rap off the ends o... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy to rap the route with a single 70 but beware because the first rappel is a super rope-stretcher. At the VERY end of the rope we had to reach down and clip the anchor and basically rap off the end of the rope back onto that ledge. The rest of the raps are casual and easy.
Absolutely fantastic route. We did the right start. Got to get on the #3 start next time!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stellar route! That step across and commitment to the crimps on the other side is really fun. Someone probably already mentioned this in the previous comments but a single 70m works great for this route. 3 raps, last one being off the back side then hike back around. If your 70 is trimmed at all you will be cutting it close. CL
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Photo
By: Clayton Laramie When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lovely yeah... Scary HELL YEAH!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Unknown (5.11)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route for sure! Easy fingers and liebacking to an atypical creek sport move to a little roof. Highly worthwhile!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Our Piece of Real Estate (5.11a)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sustained .75 in an offset at the start gives this route the 11- rating and I agree. Above there, the route is excellent 1s, 2s, and 3s to the chains. Really fun!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Elbow Vices (5.10)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Man I really suck at wide stuff! That squeeze shouldn't be much of an issue but I just kept getting stuck with cams and all. Cool climb though if you don't mind the start. I had my back against the other wall the whole way... maybe that was part of my problem.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Pigs In Space (5.10+)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Called 10+ in the book, climbs more like 10-. Great route and good for warmup too. Mostly #2s with pods and good options for feet if you don't want to jam it straight up the whole way.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Think Pink (5.11a)
By: Clayton Laramie When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although the start climbs past some broken rock in the crack, the roof is more than worth it! I places camalot 2s and 3s in the roof and thought it was just fine. AFter the TR is set you can easily start right where you lower off and climb that other crack past most of the choss.
There is one wedged flake where I placed a .5 on one side and a .75 on the other side, clipping the rope to the .5 biner and clipping the .75 to the .5 loop in hopes that if I had fallen the two pieces would exert fo... more >>
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