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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Le Nouveau Riche (5.10b PG13)
By: claramie When: May 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route the other week. All bolts are very rusted (bolts, hangers are fine). I placed a single set of Aliens on the climb to mitigate the danger of a bolt failing. Hope someone replaces them sooner or later.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Gobbler's Grunt (5.9)
By: claramie When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Should have read the route description better. One the second pitch, I finished in a cave. Then from there went to the top in a chimney (through the cave). All was still great climbing and nothing harder than 5.9 but didn't realize I was supposed to stay left on the face on P2. Handcrack variation to the first pitch was the best pitch of the climb.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : The Petit Gully (M5+)
By: claramie When: May 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route on 5/5/2013 after 2 feet of snow fell on the park the week before. Lots of unconsolidated snow in the gully and pretty much no ice at all made for exciting snow wallowing cruxes around the chockstones. Our conditions were quite different from all the other posts I have seen. Might be good shape in the next two weeks. Hot afternoons will probably shed a bit down the gully for the next little while.
The last rap station down the south face of The Petit was completely buried und... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Mudslide (5.10+)
By: claramie When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has cleaned up from some traffic. I finally got on it after years of saying it's too dirty. Mainly a lieback and still kinda dirty but it's worth doing if it's too hot in the sun and Annunaki is slammed.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall
By: claramie When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Trail is kinda tough to find and follow. The one we took hit the wall about at the unnamed 5.10. Most of the routes are further right. Gets shade in the AM but sun later in the day.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall : Unnamed 5.10 (5.10)
By: claramie When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: great warmup. If you take the approach trail we did, you end up just right of this climb. Kinda tricky start move for a 10 but a great warmup and good gear throughout.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall : Repo man (5.11-)
By: claramie When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route, clean rock and splitter. I recommend a #4 and a #5 camalot or at least 2x #4 camalot (though they are a little tipped out up high). Also save a #2 or #3 if you want to have TR pro for the last move to the anchors.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : Tony's Nightmare (WI3-4)
By: claramie When: Jan 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing the short WI4 section of Tony's Nightmare on January 8, 2013 in the afternoon. It was sunny and warm but solid and not too runny. Made for some fun ice climbing.
| Tony's Nightmare on January 8, 2013.
Submitted By: claramie on Jan 10, 2013
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Avi danger was low the day we climbed it, but Officer's Gulch can change quickly and be a dangerous place, so make good decisions before you go up there.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Glenwood Falls - Left / Rig... (WI4-5)
By: claramie When: Jan 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glenwood Falls on January 8th, 2013. Good conditions, but once the sun got on the wall, it was too hot, so we decided to bail one pitch from the top.
| Rapping down Glenwood Falls.
Submitted By: claramie on Jan 10, 2013
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We left Boulder just before 6am. Had we left at 4:30, we would have had time to finish the route.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon (WI4+ M6)
By: claramie When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route was still in and climbable today. Hard to say how long it will stay in shape but maybe another week or two. Really only two good pitches right now then it's pretty dry up higher.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Crack Attack (5.11-)
By: claramie When: Nov 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you don't have a big cam for the start, it's pretty easy to protect the finger crack on the right with anything between blue and yellow aliens. No problem to do this if you have your leg all the way in the wide crack, or if you are liebacking.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Power Wall : Electric (5.11+)
By: claramie When: Nov 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is also another crack leading to the same anchor up the right side. Looks to be about 12- at gradually narrows from #1 camalot down to the smallest gear possible while cupping the arete with the right hand. Didn't try it but could be good and easy to TR from the same anchor.
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Location: GA : Rocktown : Asphalt Boulders : Golden Showers (V4-5) : Photo
By: claramie When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: wow, that rock is freakin awesome!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Get Smart (5.10d)
By: claramie When: Oct 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! I'm surprised it doesn't get climbed more. We only had a 55m rope and had plenty left. Maybe a new anchor was put in lower on the pitch?
The "OW" start is not bad, and much more logical to stem around given all the feet. Single new #5 is plenty on the big gear.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Moon Also Rises (5.11-)
By: claramie When: Oct 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed that the thin hands finish is the way to go. A 70m rope works fine for this. I took a new #6 camalot and it didn't fit anywhere. I recommend taking 2x new #5 camalots as the biggest piece. Place one to back up the drilled angle and another up higher in that OW instead of bumping one with you the whole way like I did and risk a bad fall if you come out with it in your hand. The chimney leading up to the drilled angle isn't very well protected, although maybe a huge big bro woul... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress
By: claramie When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fully agreed with Andy on this one. The view from ths crag is the better than any view from anywhere in Indian Creek in my opinion. the climing is very good too. Go check it out!
For the drive, it's maybe 10 minutes past the routes on potash. There is a huge pullout, keep going. You will see a train track parallel the road. Keep going. Jug Handle Arch, turn right follow the dirt road (which has been improved since last year).
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10)
By: claramie When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had a great time on Jah Man on 9/21/2012. Super-classic route and summit for sure. As stated before, it's a bigger hike than Castleton or the Rectory. The road is still pretty bad. You can currently drive in about 1 mile from the road with a stock truck, but then it's better to just walk.
As for the route itself, if you are comfortable on the grade you could take doubles of #.75 and #1 camalot and be fine if you bump at all. #2 friends would also be money. If you want more, ta... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Happy Ending (5.10d)
By: claramie When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A pretty cool pitch. The cracks are really abrasive, so tape isn't out of the question. The poison ivy is abundant at the base. Pulling the rope almost guarantees that it will fall right in the ivy. We had to cut our day short, go home and wash our rope after this pitch.
Real fun would be to do "What If You're Not?" then step past the bolt anchor to the ledge and do this as a 2nd pitch.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: claramie When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just saw these routes from Bookmark yesterday. The wall looks soooo good. Totally forgot I'd been here until I checked on the proj. Haven't done this route since 2007, but I'd also call it a sandbag, especially if Rotert is saying that. Old dude, yes, but then again I have followed him up plenty of terrifying 11/11+ R routes (that he always sends). A master of understatement, if Bob says something is hard, I'd go in prepared....
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d) : Photo
By: claramie When: Aug 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is that a Valley Giant I see? Never actually seen one of those before. Cool.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Damnation Crack (5.9)
By: claramie When: Jul 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun route! Old school climbing for sure but lots more pro besides just protecting the big crack. Not that either way is "right" but I belayed on the left side wall at 100'. This works great as you are on ring bolts, it's right at 100' and you can watch your partner climb the whole pitch. Continue to the top or rap with a 60m and have the TR set up for a quick lap on the 20 foot 5.10 finger crack.
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Astro Elephant (5.10-)
By: claramie When: Jul 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing route that is a lot of fun. You can link the two 5.10 pitches with a single 60m rope. Then one more long pitch takes you to the ledge with the tree. Combining those and not counting the P6 ledge traverse, the route ends up being 7 pitches. A single 60 was fine but your call in case you have to bail.
Routefinding beta.
1) Start above the descent gully chockstone. You start behind a tree and are aiming for the big trees on the ledge. You should not hit any big roofs in this section if y... more >>
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch
By: claramie When: Jul 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Elephant's Perch is not to be missed. This amazing cirque is great for both climbers and non-climbers, so bring your non-climber friends for some excellent alpine backpacking, fishing and beautiful scenery as you climb.
Two things to note: 1) the right side of the wall (astro elephant, etc) gets sun much earlier than the left side of the wall and can get really hot. 2) when descending the gully and eventually reaching the chock-boulder, go out left to the tree on the other formation. Single... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge
By: claramie When: Jun 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Per the RMNP Backcountry Office, they finished chainsawing a trail through the deadfall on Glacier Gorge Trail two days ago. Looks like GG is open again!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : South Crack (Unknown) (5.5)
By: claramie When: Jun 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed that, although short, this is a great 1st lead. Easy climbing, bomber gear, and a tree for an anchor. Good jams on it too (or you can just climb the jugs around the crack).
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