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Rock Climbing Photo: My Hero


Member Since: Apr 5, 2007
Last Visit: Aug 14, 2016
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Point Rank: # 8,830
Total Points: 49
Last Year: 36
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has CJD been climbing?










Contributions


All 161 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 14 | Posts 136 | Stars 6 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Queen's Bishop

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R (1)

Trad, 4 pitches, 450'

AZ : Sedona Area : ... : Flying Buttress

Jul 17, 2016

Spread Eagle

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 40'

AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Uptown

Jul 17, 2016

Chicken Fixin's

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 30'

AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Uptown

Jul 17, 2016

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: My Hero

My Hero

The People of Mountain Proj... : CJD : CJD picture album

Dec 3, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Photo
By: CJD When: Jul 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I believe Mike named this route to honor a friend Carol Moyer who had recently died while jumaring on El Cap.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Photo
By: CJD When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: I was one of the FA party and totally support replacing our old bolts (not adding new ones) and home made hangars. That pitch deserves to be climbed more. I talked to Jeff Snyder about it recently so he might be up to do it. I'm too out of shape and scared to do the route now myself. I think Mike Lawson made the hangars from and old mail box or something. We were poor starving college students at the time.

I remember Mike drilling the second bolt standing on one foot, ... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Tam O'Shanter : Photo
By: CJD When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: The road in red is currently in very bad shape. Hopefully this fall/winter we can get some folks down there to help repair it.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden Crags : Solitude Canyon : Solitude Wall
By: CJD When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: I did some FA's here in the 80's with Dan Dingle. I'm not sure which of the new routes they might be but one of them had some home made stainless steel bolt hangars. Did anybody notice those?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden Crags : West Elden : ... : Spread Flake (5.10)
By: CJD When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: Eric,

Here I am 5 years later answering your question. That pin was left by me when I did the FA of the arete. I started in Spread Flake then went out onto the left face and up the arete. I called it Spread Eagle I can't remember the grade. Probably 5.9.

Chris


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Magnolia Thunderpussy (5.9)
By: CJD When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: I did this today (opening weekend) for the first time in about 35 years. It seemed harder than I remember but I'd say it is 5.9. I thought the roof was easier than the stemming below. Bomber hands and a giant foothold on the right. The route stayed in the shade until about noon so was nice even though the temp in Prescott was 92 when we left.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden Crags : Solitude Canyon
By: CJD When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: I put up a few routes here in the early 80's with Dan Dingle. They were on the north facing side lower down. I can remember one with a bolt or two. Seems like we had some weird home made hangers too. Can't remember what we called it. I think we did a few more right near that one.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow Areas : *East Clear Creek : Winslow Wall : ... : The Hanging Judge (5.12a)
By: CJD When: Oct 31, 2011

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Comments: Those were not the first routes done at the Winslow wall. I did some FA's there in about 82 or 83 with two locals who's names I can't remember and Ken Collier who still lives in Flag. I think the local guys (Ken would remember their names) had done a few routes before I got there. I believe I took Toula there one more time and then never went back because I couldn't get any of the Flagstaff sheeple climbers to go out there. After I moved to boulder in 84 I heard about the "discovery" of the ... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden Crags : West Elden : ... : La Diosa (5.10)
By: CJD When: Nov 24, 2010

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Comments: I did this one in the mid 80's too.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Tam O'Shanter
By: CJD When: Jan 14, 2009

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Comments: Sorry, there is no published guide to Tamo. With the uncertain future of the park and access it is unlikely that there will be one.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Technicolor Corner (5.10 R)
By: CJD When: Aug 22, 2007

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Comments: This is a true classic and the face pitch is the best! It is one of the nicest pitches in Sedona. It was scary on the FA and probably just as scary now. I can't believe nobody has ever replaced those old bolt hangers. I think Mike made them from an old mailbox. What can I say we were dirt poor. I suggest pulling them out and replacing them with baby angles. Of course that would be scary. They were all drilled from stances with no hooks so the replacement can be done without much shenanigans.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Watchtower AKA Last Temptat... (5.12-)
By: CJD When: Aug 22, 2007

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Comments: I did the first ascent of this route/tower with Jim Erdman around 1990?. I led the first pitch and Jim led the second which is a sugary loose mess. It had this loose toadstool that could fall and kill the belayer. It might be gone now. We aided some on both pitches. Later, with Brian Smith, I traversed the limestone band to the left at the top of the first pitch to access the obvious wide crack on the south side. The traverse was easy but the crack to the top was pretty crummy like the origi... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Photographers' Peak Area : Aquarium Rock
By: CJD When: Jul 28, 2007

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Comments: I just saw Pete mentioned in an article in Climbing and I'd like to find him again too. We were in grad school together at CU in the '80's. I can't seem to find him on the BHSU website. If anybody can forward my email to him I'd appreciate it. bigsky@commspeed.net

Chris Dunn


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : Princess Spire
By: CJD When: Jul 15, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I did this route in the early 80's with Tim Toula. It is a classic but unless somebody has added some bolts to the top the rap is horrifying. We rapped off a tiny bush that was trying to pull out of the crack it was growing from.

CJD


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Oak Flat, S339 Moving Again!!! Please take a minute!Arizona & New MexicoCJDJan 27, 2015
re: Prescott Climbers Coalition meeting (Jan 7th @7pm)Arizona & New MexicoCJDJan 8, 2015
re: Prescott Climbers Coalition meeting (Jan 7th @7pm)Arizona & New MexicoCJDDec 18, 2014
re: Oak Flat, S339 Moving Again!!! Please take a minute!Arizona & New MexicoCJDDec 18, 2014
re: Is there a Prescott climbing community?Arizona & New MexicoCJDDec 6, 2014
Is there a Prescott climbing community?Arizona & New MexicoCJDDec 6, 2014
re: Looking for Flagstaff RecommendationArizona & New MexicoCJDMay 23, 2014
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