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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Goldfinger (5.12a)
By: chummer When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rely more on stoppers than cams. They're super solid and easier to place.
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : North Clear Creek : North Clear Creek : Southern Hydraulics (5.12c)
By: chummer When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No bolts on this route as of 5/1/09.
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : North Clear Creek : North Clear Creek : Southern Hydraulics (5.12c)
By: chummer When: Feb 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's interesting. I wonder how the information got mixed up. I'm curious to know where the real STP is.
That's a shame about the retro job.
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Tieranny Roofs : Jungle Jane (5.12a)
By: chummer When: May 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some one has probably sent this by now but I always thought that you could make a big dyno to the lip of the roof and crank over instead of just lowering off.
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Tieranny Roofs : Body Count direct (5.13+)
By: chummer When: May 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I haven't climbed this so I can't speak from experience. I think its like 5.10 to a V10 or some such type thing.
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Location: WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Technorigine (5.12c)
By: chummer When: May 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone recently replaced all the bad gear. Thanks!
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Location: WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Technorigine (5.12c)
By: chummer When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm an currently working on this climb and have been on it several times over the last month. It is need of anchor replacement on several of the upper/crux bolts. The Midpoint anchors as well. The green webbing is in really bad shape and I don't recommend lowering off of it.
If anyone has a power drill and would like to help me replace a few of the bolts I would to hear from you.
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Trac II : Baby Face (V7)
By: chummer When: Feb 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was working this problem once and watched Obe Carrion climb it in his TENNIS SHOES.
Best V7 at Hueco?
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : The Electric Kool-Aid Acid ... (5.12c/d)
By: chummer When: Jan 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would love to learn more about the history of this climb. I spent ALOT of time working on this thing. I flashed it on toprope first try but it took me another couple of years to finally lead it free and even then with some fixed gear at the crux.
I doubt it has ever been onsighted but who knows. Would love to hear more stories. I used to take 20+ footers on the first bolt that was sticking halfway out of the rock. Yikes! This is one of my favorite climbs ever.
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Photo
By: chummer When: Jan 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: These are some roofs over at North Clear that KB bolted in the mid 90's. I think its called Rasputin ledge. The routes there are called Scaled Dog 12ish. Rasputin D Scalliwag and a couple of others.
This area has some real adventure to it. I put up couple of routes there that went unreported. Perhaps unrepeated. One is just right of the ledge that's like 12bish trad to anchors called Old and in the Way. Starts on a bolted arete that's kinda chossy then breaks out right through roofs o... more >>
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Tieranny Roofs : Tieranny (5.12a)
By: chummer When: Jan 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pascal and Kris Klein showed up and climbed it on natural gear. I think just to stick it to Glenn and the crew. The pro would clearly be solid. I don't remember the year. Chris Chestnut considered soloing it at one time many years ago as did KB. I didn't ever hear of them pulling it off though.
I climbed the route about 100 times and considered trying to solo it, got a wild hair one day and climbed up to the roofs, chickened out and climbed down. Thank god I did. I think I would have jus... more >>
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