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Location: GA : Currahee Mountain : Slab Area : Stranger than Friction (5.9)
By: Chuck Parks When: Jan 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are now bolts and rings at the top of this climb. Head more or less straight up (maybe slightly left) from the last bolt to the final overhang. Pull the overhang at a weakness (you can get gear in here), and the bolts will be on the face just above.
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Location: AL : Sand Rock : Holiday Block : Pump Handles (5.9) : Photo
By: Chuck Parks When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice picture! I think that's Walking the Dog though, and not Pump Handles. I always get those two climbs confused as well -- they're kind of interchangeable.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Straight Shooter (5.9) : Photo
By: Chuck Parks When: Sep 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Straight Shooter? Son, there ain't nothin' "straight" about them pants!
Great photo, spandex notwithstanding.
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Image Wall : Spawn (5.10c)
By: Chuck Parks When: May 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting: I checked, and the old Dixie Cragger's has this route listed as a 10a, whereas the new book has it at 10c/d.
I've only climbed it once, but when I did the 10c rating felt like it was in line with the rest of the grades in the South Clear. Now, whether the ratings in South Clear are soft is an entirely different matter...
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall North : I'm Late (5.7)
By: Chuck Parks When: May 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are now bolts and rap rings at the top of this climb.
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Location: NC : Pilot Mountain
By: Chuck Parks When: Feb 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pilot Mountain is not covered in the Selected Climbs in North Carolina guidebook, and the old Kelly guidebook is out of print. Fortunately, Jeff Dillon has created a new, free guidebook for Pilot Mountain. It is now available for download at the Carolina Climbers Coalition web site.
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Location: AL : Palisades Park : Elephant Crack (5.7+)
By: Chuck Parks When: Feb 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux of this route favors those with a long reach (either tall, or ape-y, or both). People with a wingspan over 6 ft. will find it easier to place safe, solid protection further out the roof before committing to the crux. It will also be a bit easier to climb the crux.
I'm not saying the route is super-hard for the shorties out there, but I wouldn't be surprised if difference in reach is a factor in the 5.6 vs. 5.7+ debate.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Second Coming (5.7)
By: Chuck Parks When: Feb 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Leaders should be advised that the right face of the corner above the typical pitch 1 belay ledge is composed of large, and very hollow flakes. Be careful how you place gear here, or continue up another 20 feet or so and belay at a smaller ledge.
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