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Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: chuck claude When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: And Josh,
I'll be taking you up on your suggestion of changing out the bolts on the top of pitch 3. I've got one Fixe with a stainless steel snapshut and have a second one on order, and hope to have it changed out by the end of November/early december of 2009. I'll also be replacing the tat on thee top of pitch 5 (summit) with chains and quicklinks which I already have
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+) : Photo
By: chuck claude When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I seconded Mike, the gear was absolutely bomber and he could have whipped at any point and it would have been a-ok (even the grey 000 BD C3 was as bomber as a cam could ever get). On top of the gear he placed , if he would have carried a few more green (0) BD C3s he could have stitched it up oven better. IMHO the gear is about the same as it is on Shotgun and the rock is solid.
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Shotgun (5.12)
By: chuck claude When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: but for the old-timers: who did the first lead?
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+)
By: chuck claude When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah, I was laughing the whole way you were doing it Mike since you were taking a perfectly good 3/5 pitch multipitch and made it into a 2 pitch sports route.
Just a note: when Mike linked the first 3 pitches we used a 70m rope (9.1mm) and when he got to the 3rd belay there was maybe 20-25ft of rope left (measured 4 lengths of my armspan)60m rope you will have to belay from the top of the pedestal at the base, and possibly may need to simulcclimb maybe 5ft.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Crime Of The Century (5.11c)
By: chuck claude When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: fun route with good gear. I wouldn't go a route which all finger cracks are judged against. First time I did it in 2001 my pinkie went numb from the first move.
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Sail Away (5.12b)
By: chuck claude When: Jun 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm with Mike on this. The climbing is very good, but the 10-15ft of business is out of character with the rest of the route. As for 5.12b, I don't know. While the crux is fairy stiff with really poor feet, its just so short, and you can do a few moves and then its over.
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Mayflower Direct (5.11+ PG13)
By: chuck claude When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm with Paul on this, 5.11d seems to be a huge sandbag to me. I got my butt handed to me, and then followed CrackMD up it. No matter how you cut it, its stiff. The gear is really good with small nuts (#4), and small cams, 00 BD C3's, and the green and red BD C3's. It may have handed me my butt the first time on it but I though it was really good.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : The Bugaboos : Howser Towers : ... : All Along the Watchtower (5.11 C2- R)
By: chuck claude When: Sep 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: So on what pitch warrants the R rating. Is it the .11c traverse? or down below. I was hoping to do it this last summer but knee surgery precluded it so I'm hoping for next summer.
Any info would be greatly appreciated
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks
By: chuck claude When: Sep 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The weather at that time of year will depend on the particular year. I've climbed there on Christmas Day (obviously in December) but at that time of year, there could also be a raging blizzard. Chances are that its going to be beautiful though.
For a 5.9 leader, probably the highest concentration is on the Pillow Wall (but the cracks tend to be wide hands) and short (in the 50-60ft range, the best at 5.9 are probably on the Prow(but there are only a couple of them though) and the most popular ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Davidson Dihedral (5.11+)
By: chuck claude When: Jul 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paul, I guess its all what our strengths are . For me I find Davidsons Dihedral pretty easy having lead it twice in a 20 minute period, but I would be wasted if I tried to lead Mutiny twice in 20 minutes
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Mutiny on the Bounty (5.11+)
By: chuck claude When: May 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: As with everything people have different suggestions, My gear list is usually 1 green alien (I use a red BD C3), heavy in blue BD microcams (0.3) and grey BD microcams (0.4) and then 2 0.5 camalot jr, and 3 0.75 camalot jrs and no (0) 1.0camalots (red)
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Paradise Lost (5.12a PG13)
By: chuck claude When: Apr 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is fairly uprotected to get started, but I don't think the route is PG13, its about as protected as it gets
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Three Turkeys (5.11c)
By: chuck claude When: Apr 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite leads in the Forks. The lieback flake is good fun and the upper baby butt crack is interesting.
gear beta: a red camalot placed at the base of the baby butt crack (after the lieback flake) will make you feel like you can wing anywhere on the rest of the route and you'd be safe.
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Davidson Dihedral (5.11+)
By: chuck claude When: Apr 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: On lead it slimy but really not THAT bad, actually pretty soft for a 5.11d especially as compared to Mutiny on the Bounty on the Prow Wall. No nuts are really necessary. A suggested rack for an onsite attempt (which will leave you with ample gear choices) rack is 2x0.3 microcamalots (blue), 3x0.4 microcamalots (grey), 2x 0.5 camalot jrs (maroon), and 2x0.75 camalot jrs (green). Its super fun and I will usually lead it every or every other time I'm at the Forks.
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