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First climb after knee surgery


Member Since: Jul 24, 2006
Last Visit: Oct 31, 2014
Contact chuck claude


Point Rank: # 2,149
Total Points: 269
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 0
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has chuck claude been climbing?










Contributions


All 399 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 41 | Page Improvements | Comments 44 | Posts 258 | Stars 43 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Help Doctors Understand Cli...
By: chuck claude When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: wish there was a reference for docotrs that they could refer to or discuss or reference when patients are climbers. I am recovering from a spinal injury (C4, C5m, C6, and C7) from a mountain biking accident. I had to have long discussionswith my doctor so he understood what I was asking for when I would be released for various things, like lead climbing (which implies lead falls) bouldering......


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Castles in the Sand (5.11+)
By: chuck claude When: Nov 6, 2012

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Comments: Looks like David is going to have to come out with issue 2....

Shit that is pretty scarey, and glad no one was one it... Now are we oing to have to list an ascent of CITS 1 or 2...... Or will it get a new name like sandcastles in the. Wind?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Flight Time (5.12-)
By: chuck claude When: Oct 27, 2012

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Comments: Personally I thouht this was closer to 5.11a or 5.11b but didn't eant to be a #&&h@1e . The fingerlocks are amazing, and the feet good. SO much easier then Hot Fun Sunday nearby....


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Annunaki (5.11c)
By: chuck claude When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: I won't downgrade it for people, but when I got it onsite, I had thought it was 5.11b, even though the previous nitearound the campfire everyone exclaimed how heinous it was.

As for face climbing. What faceclimbing. I did it straight in and thought it was an easy way of doing it.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Photo
By: chuck claude When: Apr 7, 2012

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Comments: Don't know how "juggy" there are, unless you are a mutant


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : The Golden Spike (5.11+)
By: chuck claude When: Apr 6, 2012

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Comments: On pitch 3 on top of one of the ledges below the red Camalot roof, there is a block that is 6' wide, 3' high and about 18" thick that you would like to yard on. Don't. The whole block moved maybe 3" on me today ( 4/5/2012), and could realistically come off in the very near future.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Just a Brick... (5.11)
By: chuck claude When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: I didn't use a #5, but instead worked a BD 0 C3 into the crack just before moving up to the chains. Route is different, not great but not bad either.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Family Home Night (5.12)
By: chuck claude When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: In the facey section I got a ok nut in, nothing to protect me from a reasonble whipper but good enough to let me get a tight but GOOD purple (00) BD C3 and then a foot later a beautiful green (0)BD C3. I also thought that I'd finish the route at the top on only 0.75 BD C4's but I was glad to have a red (1.0) BD C4 for the end.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall : Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid... (5.12 PG13)
By: chuck claude When: Oct 2, 2011

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Comments: Just as a warning for October 2011. There is a large wasp nests in the top of the hand pod about 1/3 of the way up the route. Man, were they pissed when I disturbed them.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Puzzle Factory (5.12)
By: chuck claude When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: And how does it compare to Ruby's outside they are both corners and at Indian Creek? Ruby's is tight fingers to perfect fingers to a roof and back to tight fingers. The other is wideness to rattley fingers (for me). Am I missing something?


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : The Comp Wall : Splitter (5.11b)
By: chuck claude When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: I found this to be one of the best routes I found in COR or Castle (although I would love to go back to look at the .12 on Bradseick Spire since I didn't get a chance to look at it on my last trip.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Broadloaves - North : Interceptor (5.11a)
By: chuck claude When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: I find the crux going from the traverse into the crack before you get perfect hands. After that its really steep (maybe 15ft and not the 30ft someone suggested)of really fun climbing.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Crack of Doom (5.11c)
By: chuck claude When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: The route is good (and one of my favorite at the City- led it twice on my last trip) and once in 2005. The only reason I gave it two stars is because its a 5.11 boulder problem (which was really fun) with a 5.10 crack. The offwidth is really mellow where you can reach through most of the wide stuff. Gear: a quickdraw for the piton, two small stoppers, a few green and red C3's, a couple of blue and grey 0.3 and 0.4 C4's, 1 0.5 C4 and then a a couple of yellow (2) and blue (3) C4's and if you wish... more >>


Location: Colorado : Shitty Anchors at Shelf Roa... : Post : Photo
By: chuck claude When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: doesn't look so bad to me. well equalized....


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Pringles (5.11+)
By: chuck claude When: Apr 20, 2011

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Comments: Gear goes from green C4 (0.75) down to green C3 (0) with a purple C3 then a red C4 (1) with lots in the 0.3 (blue C4) and 0.4 (grey C4)_ sizes if I remember right. The crux is contrived but it is pretty good fun. Easily leadable and fairly safe with a crux that makes you think more then just jam, jam, jam


Location: chuck claude : personal : Photo
By: chuck claude When: Jan 13, 2011

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Comments: its on the way into the Bugaboo's, which have amazing climbing)


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Red Planet (5.13)
By: chuck claude When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: Gear list is

Green BD C3 to Green 0.75 with a yellow #2 C4 or Red #1 C4 (they protect the same section).

3-4 0.75 C4's
2-3 0.5 C4's
2-3 0.4 C4's
2 0.3 C4
2-3 BD 1 C3 (or 0.2C4)
yellow/red C4
4 draws for the route and then 2 for the anchor draws

or atleast that is what I use


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Yorkshire Gripper (5.11b)
By: chuck claude When: Aug 26, 2010

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Comments: I agree with Lizzy. The direct start over the overhang was pretty easy. The mid-crux between the two cracks while a crux, IMHO it was insignificant compared to the end.

For a rack several BD 0.5 (purples) fit beautifully after the overhang in the direct start, in the lower crack and in the upper crack. I used the suggestion about small TCU's but only placed on and it wasn't really necessary. for me 0.3 (Blue) BD camalot to 0.5 (purple) BD camalot and a yellow one for the direct start


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Puppy Dome : Do or Fly (5.11c)
By: chuck claude When: Jun 29, 2010

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Comments: With small gear and a blue C4 (memory is bad in my old age, but I'm 90% sure that its the blue C4; is correct) at the crux, the beginning isn't that bad to protect and the crux is short (I'm 100% sure on that). When I first tried it years ago, I was only getting close to the grade and thought it was reasonable.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Shotgun (5.12)
By: chuck claude When: May 30, 2010

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Comments: You led Janed Fonda's and was wondering if Shotgun would be a safe lead. Sounds sort of backwards.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall
By: chuck claude When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: So whats te background of "An Uncertain Violence". The fingers section looks fun.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The White Wall : Popeye (5.12b/c R)
By: chuck claude When: May 1, 2010

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Comments: Matt Swartz led it with Keith Beckley belaying. Matt says he thinks his was the second lead.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The White Wall : Prudence (5.11c)
By: chuck claude When: May 1, 2010

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Comments: IThe start may be a bit scarey but atleast the start is mercifully short.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Red Planet (5.13)
By: chuck claude When: Apr 18, 2010

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Comments: Ok now its

1)John Mattson
2)Peewee Oullett
3)Nick Berry
4)Kyle Edmonson(fall 2009)
5)Ben Williams (spring 2010)
6)Matt Swartz (Spring 2010)
7)Alex Honnold (summer 2010)(onsight: based on second hand sources so it could be wrong)
8) Jeff Snyder (Oct 2011)

I think I got the order right. Hell, with all the traffic it's seeing, it saw 4 ascents in it's first 11 years, but it may see 4 ascents this year.

Note: the first pitch continues to get clearer/worse. Jeff dislodged the huge flake before th... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Red Planet (5.13)
By: chuck claude When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: More than that,

after the first ascent by John Matteson, ATLEAST Kyle, PeeWee, Ben, Nick, and those are the people I know of (or atleast heard of second hand) and I expect there are probably several/many more. Its a hard route but very doable.


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