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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon
By: Christian Knight When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a post in the Utah forum titled "New 8 pitch sport climb" with topo and info about the route as well as comments.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Red Slab : Leave It To Beaver (5.8)
By: Christian Knight When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I forgot to post this back in July, but I replaced the manky old bolt on this route with a big fatty stainless. Enjoy!
P.S. I found out that this bolt was the first bolt placed by Jeff Pedersen, who also made the FA.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : Explorien (5.8)
By: Christian Knight When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like this route but thought Implorien was a little better and more direct. We just barely linked this into one 60m pitch, which was awesome.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : Glasnost (5.8+ R)
By: Christian Knight When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this might have been R back before C3's were invented, now it's just a super fun 5.8
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : Ravages Of Time (5.9+)
By: Christian Knight When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another great Garrett route. Loved the technical face moves down low. I didn't really think the cams were necessary.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed (5.7)
By: Christian Knight When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route with super clean rock. Probably the best route on the wall. A small selection of cams was useful for the 3rd pitch and the 5th. James I think I owe you a high five.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Adjective : Idiotic (5.11d)
By: Christian Knight When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think 11b or 11c is a little more accurate. It's just not that much harder than doing Vomit. And yes, the pocket is very sick indeed.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Jawa Jam (5.9)
By: Christian Knight When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Holy crap Perin, you just put up the best 5.9 in the canyon. Loved the route, can't wait to try Leia's Leash.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Captured For Rapture (5.10d R)
By: Christian Knight When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used a Blue Master Cam just over the second roof and a Green C3 just past that, both pieces were okay, but the slung flake in the middle of the face is super solid. This route is burly beyond all belief, mad props to Pedersen.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Red Slab : Leave It To Beaver (5.8)
By: Christian Knight When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this today in its original style, which involves skipping the first bolt of Red Dwarf which was not there when this route was established. Super fun face climbing and stellar pro when you can get it in. Also you finish a little further right than what is listed on the topo. I think I will replace the routes single bolt, which sticks out a half an inch.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Scenic Turnout : Bold School (5.10b/c)
By: Christian Knight When: Apr 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went and put in a pair of cold shuts on the top of this route today. Have fun Tristan.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: Christian Knight When: Mar 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Loved this route. It is just barely possible to rappel with one 70 meter rope.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Good Plantains (5.9+)
By: Christian Knight When: Feb 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finished off the first 2 pitches of this today so it now goes from the ground up instead of starting on Be All That You Can Be. Thought it was going to be harder that 5.9 but it was a blast anyways.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Dancing With Feral Debutant... (5.9) : Photo
By: Christian Knight When: Feb 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn Perin,
That roof looks huge. Im gonna have to go climb that on the next sunny day. Great shot!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Brain Full of Spiders (5.9) : Photo
By: Christian Knight When: Jan 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I got hit in the head with the same rock. Although it may not be for the faint of heart, it is different and it has some very fun and exciting moves.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Layer Cake : Intimidator (5.10a)
By: Christian Knight When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I added another pitch to this so it would top out. I would say that it is maybe just a little more intimidating than the first pitch.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Training Camp : Wax On, Wax Off (5.7)
By: Christian Knight When: Dec 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best single pitch line at the Training Camp. Sweet moves on a neat little rock.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Training Camp : What Is Your Major Malfunct... (5.3)
By: Christian Knight When: Dec 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Even though it looks like the worst rock in the canyon, its actually fairly clean and gives you a few good moves.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Training Camp : Covey Leader to Raven (5.9)
By: Christian Knight When: Dec 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite a fun route with a few sketchy bits of rock at the start. Once you are past bolt 4 its really straightforward. As with all the routes on this pillar, the top out is the best.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Training Camp : Rookie of the Year/An All S... (5.10a)
By: Christian Knight When: Dec 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this today with Bret and Perin. I don't think its quite 5.10 but man its really fun. If you get discouraged by the first pitch, fear not the second more than makes up for it. The bolt placement is pretty darn good and I really enjoyed the exposure.
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Location: CO : Oil and Gas in Moab
By: Christian Knight When: Dec 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I sent in a letter about a week ago protesting the oil/gas leases. I know the direct impact specific to climbing might not be great, but the Mtn. Bike community has a lot to lose here. Many of the areas are the trail access points and some of the trails will become access roads for trucks and equipment. So it might not have a huge impact on the climbing but you should look out for your fellow backcountry users. You would think that the BLM would see that the amount of money spent in Moab and the... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Brain Full of Spiders (5.9)
By: Christian Knight When: Nov 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb that puts you up on top of the formation. If the first pitch had better rock it would be three stars. We linked the 2nd and 3rd into one pitch and I would recommend doing so as well. Quite an adventurous outing.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Be All That You Can Be (5.10c)
By: Christian Knight When: Nov 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing line. If you are going to do one multipitch climb in Rock Canyon, this is it. Super clean and amazing holds. I thought the 5.10 c/d rating was accurate, the climbing is a bit sustained on the 2nd pitch and the top of the 3rd though.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Layer Cake : Ledgarithm (5.9)
By: Christian Knight When: Nov 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I finally finished the fourth pitch to this the other day, so now it tops out. The rock quality on the last pitch is not the greatest but the climbing is semi fun. The first three pitches are still way better but I still felt that the route should go all the way up.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Milky Way Wall : Space Invaders (5.11a)
By: Christian Knight When: Aug 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is quite a route, definitely not a gimme for the grade. A pretty bouldery start to some rather splendid face climbing at the top.
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